Almost No Compression ?

Bondo

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Ayuh,...... This'll get ya runnin', for what yer lookin' for,.....

Everything off yer motor, bolts on,.... includin' the flywheel, 'n coupler,....
Ya just need a new Ring Gear, not the entire Flywheel,....
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Unless I am mistaken, his engine would have a 2 piece rear main.

You can spend whatever you want of course, but there is no reason to get a "marine" long block. There is no difference - despite what the sales people will tell you - between a truck long block and a marine. There is not a special marine block or crank or pistons, etc. You simply want to make sure the core plugs are brass, not steel, and the cam is appropriate for marine use. A truck cam is exactly what you want.

The engine I posted earlier is what you want - anything else is a waste of money.

You forgot head gaskets. Head gaskets ARE different between marine and non-marine use.

Chris.......
 

Idlespeedonly

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Fishermark - below is from the motor linked with summit racing



Makes me wonder...

Yes, I would like to use what I could off the old motor but that an't much. The fly wheel has to be replace do to many missing teeth. All but the water pump I already have replaced/ taken off and sitting on a bench now.

According to the case # the motor didn't belong to this boat anyway. It is an 1986 and up, so I've found.

Yes Bondo, that sounds nice, but honestly that's probably over kill for this situation. If I could get a few half way head ash free years out of the boat after this I think I would be happy.

According to your pictures you posted, your block is a Pre 86' engine (your heads are definately pre 86). This means a 2 piece rear seal. Keep in mind if you swap to the one piece seal block you will need a new coupler and flywheel.
 

Fishermark

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You forgot head gaskets. Head gaskets ARE different between marine and non-marine use.

Chris.......

Yes, there is a difference, and it's good that you point it out. However, a few years ago I did quite a bit of investigating on these new crate engines from GM and discovered that they were using head gaskets of a composite / stainless steel design. In other words, gaskets that would be appropriate for either marine or automotive use. I cannot imagine they have changed in the years since.

On the warranty issue - that is simply a liability thing. It has no bearing on whether the engine can be used in a marine setting. It obviously DOES affect the warranty of course, and you would take a chance on that... but that is a chance you can at least take with your eyes wide open. (The same issue arises with the engine Bond-o mentions as well). If you want a new engine that is warranted for marine use you will be paying much more money for it.

Good luck on what you decide!
 

AshleysRevenge

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I understand a little more now about the 1 vs 2pc seal. I was told 1 pc I will need a new flywheel and it will be externally balanced unlike the two pc internally balanced.

I want to get the one pc and a new flywheel 153tooth. I just don't know how to make sure I get the right one.
 

Bondo

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I understand a little more now about the 1 vs 2pc seal. I was told 1 pc I will need a new flywheel and it will be externally balanced unlike the two pc internally balanced.

I want to get the one pc and a new flywheel 153tooth. I just don't know how to make sure I get the right one.

Ayuh,.... Is the flywheel on Yer motor a 12", or 14",..??

'n it ain't so much the balance of the flywheel, the crankshaft bolt circle changes from 3, 1/2" to 3",...
 

AshleysRevenge

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So I 've been told now that if I go with a 1pc seal that the flywheel bolt pattern for the new flywheel will not bolt to the hub for the stern drive spline.

Is there and adapter and if there is where would there be room for it?
 

AshleysRevenge

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OK I am forgetting the whole 1pc seal.

I am fairly set on this motor First Mate Marine GM350LAFHOT - First Mate Marine Crate Engines even though it won't even ship until the end of the month. Plenty of other broken/going to break stuff to fix while the motor is out of the way.

I am open to any additional suggestion. According to tech support for summit racing, motors suggested prior in this thread are not designed (hardened exhaust valve seats, so on and so forth) for WOT marian applications.

From what I can tell every thing I have from the old motor should bolt on to this motor.
 

AshleysRevenge

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Yes it is straight across bolt pattern. One long bolt one short bolt
67-85


2 Piece rear main seal. Valve covers bolt around perimeter. 4 bolt main. This is a cam upgrade. Dip stick on starboard and port side of block, flat tappet, 12 bolt intake, 10 bolt timing cover
 

AshleysRevenge

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I bought it GM350LAFHOT. Might be here in a month. Thanks for all your help. I'll let you all know what my next problem is.

O if I wanted to upgrade my ignition from TB4, what could I go to?
 

alldodge

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I bought it GM350LAFHOT. Might be here in a month. Thanks for all your help. I'll let you all know what my next problem is.

O if I wanted to upgrade my ignition from TB4, what could I go to?

IMO I would go for the MSD ignition setup. MSD makes a very wide range of products to fix you up
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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The only'upgrade' from TB-IV is TB-V. TB-IV is one of the best ignition systems you can get.
 

Fishermark

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OK I am forgetting the whole 1pc seal.

I am fairly set on this motor First Mate Marine GM350LAFHOT - First Mate Marine Crate Engines even though it won't even ship until the end of the month. Plenty of other broken/going to break stuff to fix while the motor is out of the way.

I am open to any additional suggestion. According to tech support for summit racing, motors suggested prior in this thread are not designed (hardened exhaust valve seats, so on and so forth) for WOT marian applications.

From what I can tell every thing I have from the old motor should bolt on to this motor.

I'm sure you will like your new engine and it should work great for you.

I am replying to this mainly for reference purposes. This has a lot of info for people to reference in future searches! This post will give people who are considering a similar purchase more information.

The engine you bought is a remanufactured 2 piece rear main "marine" engine. The Summit "tech support" recommends a marine engine since it has things like "hardened exhaust valve seats", etc. If you look at the specs of the engine you bought you will notice it has the following:

* Resurfaced engine block, bored and honed
* Reconditioned crankshaft and connecting rods
* New pistons and piston rings
* Marine camshaft and lifter kit
* Brass freeze plugs
* Main, rod, and cam bearings
* Resurfaced cast iron cylinder heads with three angle valve job, reconditioned valve guides, and new valve springs
* Specialized marine gasket set
* New heavy-duty timing chain and gear set
* New oil pump

The only thing "marine" about the rebuild is a marine cam (identical to a truck cam) and a marine gasket set. The only special marine gasket is the head gasket.

The Heads? They are used cast iron heads that have been resurfaced and the existing valve seats reground. They do not have special hardened exhaust valve seats. The guides have been "reconditioned." I would be curious to know how they reconditioned the valve guides. New sleeves? Knurling? What did they do exactly?

It almost sounds like sour apples on my part! :D But no. I bring this up not to say that the engine is not good - simply that it is no better than a brand new crate engine which cost $700 less. Not to mention that the new crate engine offers free shipping, and you have to pay for shipping on the rebuilt engine.

There is the peace of mind with a warranty of course - and a Marine name tag.
 
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