If you check preload with the lower housing drive shaft seals installed you will need to measure and record the 'base line' rolling torque caused by the seal drag on the shaft. This drag can be as much as the specified bearing preload. With the input drive shaft assembly removed, and the top cap shimmed up 1/8" with washers check and record the drag several times. Then remove the washers and torque the cap to spec and follow the procedure. Subtract the base line torque to get the actual bearing rolling torque preload.
Increase preload my adding shims under the cup/race. Reduce it by removing shims. You'll have to pull the race to do this. Use the shims from your old cap assembly to get the correct shim thickness. You'll need a micrometer or caliper to measure the starting shim pack thickness, and the thickness of an adjusted shim pack. Small changes - .002"-.005" make a big difference. It can be a trial and error process, so you may end up pulling and pressing the race a few times. Make sure the race is fully seated. A dab of RC will insure it stays put. But it will take heat if you need to remove it in the future.
Loctite stated primer isn't required for steel-steel applications. Steel-aluminum..?? I cleaned my cap well with acetone before race application and RC 638 and it's stayed put.
So, the crap continues...
I installed the the replacement cap yesterday with loctite 660. That is what was recommended. After checking that the preload for the shaft with the cap shimmed less than before I got a mid range setting of about 5 inch pounds. Upon doing a test run this morning, I saw that the running temperature of the cap was around 80 degrees farenheit maximum. That is way lower than the previous temperature of 130 telling me that at least the load is not obviously as high as before. The lake temperature is 71 so that sounded about right. So I went out again this evening and same good low temps. However, when I took the cap off when I got home, the bearing cone was again spinning! I used acetone to clean it all. SO, once again, I flushed it with acetone, then cleaned it all again really well and re-applied the bearing cone. I couldn't spin it after application but honestly, I am not holding my breath. This is beginning to really get on my nerves.
I read everything I could find, I saw videos that thoroughly explained how well this stuff holds loose bearings almost instantly due to the ionic exchange with the steel. What is really concerning me is that I just can't get the same easy results. Just like those as seen on tv commercials, when you get the stuff home, it doesn't work at all the same. I know there are other grades like 638 but everything points to the 660 being what I should use. There is no lateral movement to the cone so I don't have too much slop or anything like that. But, really I just don't know what else to do. I don't want to take it to the one mechanic here in town because I probably won't see the boat until September if I do.
The original cap had the bearing glued in with 660 as I could see the residue of it on the inside after a horrible time of trying to remove it. The old bearing was burnt and I needed to change the cone because it was all brown from overheat and had score marks. I should have just left it in there because it was really stuck and I had to cut it out it was so well glued. I just don't know what else to do.
I am tempted to drill a pin into the cone from the outer edge and glue it in there. I know that is totally wrong but that is how desperate I am. I see all of these great prices for SEI top units in USA but here in Canada they are way more because of exchange and just because it's Canada...nothing is cheap here! I know that buying a new one is a stupid solution too. I have all new seals, gears and bearings in mine. Just this stupid top cap issue.
I'm so lost.
