Alphaone upper locked up from sitting?

[CatriderF7]

I bought a boat last year thats been sitting since 1999 (dry in a garage) I pulled the motor last fall and went to drop a new one in it today and couldnt get the coupler to line up with the shaft. I noticed that the shaft wouldn't rotate at all no matter what position the shifter was in. So I pulled the engine back out and after spending all afternoon messing with it I just pulled the drive off. Figuring ill put the engine in tomorrow and then put the drive back on. But I now think the upper gear case is locked up. what position should the shifter be in, in order for me to be able to rotate it by hand? Ive never had the upper apart on one of these so Im not sure if theres a bearing that could be rusted up right near the u joints or what?

The boat only has 67 total hours on it. The outdrive still has the inspection sticker from when it was new in 1991. owner got sick one year and nobody winterized the boat so it had a cracked block

 

[Bt Doctur]

1 Anytime you remove a motor you remove the drive first.because you cant align the motor .Is there oil in the drive and not water?
Can you turn the gimbal bearing by hand smoothly?

Figuring ill put the engine in tomorrow and then put the drive back on.

Not quite, figure on installing the motor, checking/adjusting the engine alignment, then shifting everything into fwd gear and install the outdrive

what position should the shifter be in, in order for me to be able to rotate it by hand? Ive never had the upper apart

Dosent matter turning the shaft by hand, in F or R the prop shaft will also turn. Locate a manual before you do serious damage. Is this a Alpha or the newer GEN II drive or a Bravo

 

[CatriderF7]

Ive swapped several motors without pulling drives, as long as theres enough room to basically set the motor level with the outdrive shaft and then slide it back. Usually I just have someone turn the prop or turn the engine by hand to line up the splines, I just happened to notice this time that once the splines were lined up, it wouldnt turn at all. As far as checking engine alignment and making sure its in fwd on installing, yes obviously thats part of putting the engine and drive on. the prop shaft turns as it should on the lower end, its the upper end that wont budge either direction. Ill pull the top cover tonight and see maybe the gears dried out and condensation rusted them or something on top. The drive is an Alphaone gen 1 I believe. Its a 1991 and doesnt have the lower unit lube reservoir mounted to the engine

 

[Bt Doctur]

Ive swapped several motors without pulling drives, as long as theres enough room to basically set the motor level with the outdrive shaft and then slide it back

You must go thru a lot of couplers doing that

 

[CatriderF7]

You must go thru a lot of couplers doing that[/QUOTE]

Why would you think that?

 

[Bondo]

Why would you think that?

Ayuh,... Because the motor has to be aligned with the gimbel bearin', 'n it can't be done with the drive on,....

It's a $6.00 gasket set to pull the drive,....

Donno why anybody would cheat the process for 6 bucks,....

 

[thumpar]

Because you are not aligning the engine.

 

[CatriderF7]

Hmm.. I just assume if the engine mounts are in exactly the same place and the outdrive shaft is slid into the coupler, how could the engine not be aligned? Has nothing to do with the cost of anything, Just never saw it as necessary..

 

[Rick Stephens]

To add to this - engine should have the alignment checked every single time the outdrive is removed- which should be minimum every year for maintenance. I can see pulling and reinstalling the same motor and having to fine adjust the alignment. I cannot see ever doing a motor swap without alignment being pretty far out.

 

[H20Rat]

Don't know why anyone would swap motors with a drive intact... It takes minutes to remove the drive! In any case, you possibly have damaged the bearing or maybe even bent the driveshaft, both could cause it to appear to be locked up. Pull the drive, install the engine, reinstall the drive. Any other way is asking for trouble.

 

[CatriderF7]

Never knew it was a step to skip. I learn as I go. The first engine I pulled without a guide or reference on how to do it, it worked out fine and ive done them like that ever since, haven't had an issue.

Back to the drive Im working on: I seperated the upper and lower. Lower is fine and works as it should. Upper has no lube in it and appears to be seized, gears arent rusty but the upper bearing right under the top cover is. Gimbal bearing also appears to be seized (cant move it by hand) although its clean and shiny, no rust.

 

[Bondo]

Upper has no lube in it and

Ayuh,.... The upper, 'n lower run the same oil, when ya split 'em, oil shoulda been runnin' outa the oil passage that the quad-ring seals,....

The oil fill is on the bullet of the lower, 'n the vent/ fill level plug is on the side of the upper,....

The seized gimbel bearin' is just 1 more reason to pull the drive each year for a look 'round in there, 'n grease the u-joints,...

 

[CatriderF7]

Not sure how I never knew that but I guess Ive never had an issue with an upper gear case. Just drained the lower and theres oil in it but also water. Not sure if its just 16 years of condensation or what but it looks like ill be doing a full service on the outdrive as well as an engine swap

 

[thumpar]

Was the quad ring between the upper and lower? If not is could have been that it filled with water and then when pulled out the upper drained from where the seal is supposed to be.