Alumacraft FD-4836

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Had the boat out over the weekend and everything works great even the electric trolling motor that was included with the boat. I got rid of the porposing by putting the battery for the electric trolling motor up in the bow area. I had to buy some 8 ga. wire to extend the battery cables up about 12'. That cost about $16 for the wire. I also put some plastic paint on the back of the seats because they were stained and would not clean up with water. Thinking about a plateform for the front but I do not want to put in anything to extensive. My goal is to keep the boat simple. I do need a good cover, any suggestions on quality covers for under $150.00? It was a little to cold for fishing, but I did see a big walleye swiming along side the boat, however walleye season was closed at the time. Can't wait for the weather to warm up and get the fish active.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Sweet! As you've learned, it's just takes lots of trail and error to get the weight distribution worked out just right and no two boats will ever be exactly the same. As far as covers go, I just use a blue tarp and some bungee chords and it has survived many a Florida downpour and storm. Pretty redneck, but it works. Lots of folks will make removable frames out of PVC, which they place in the boat then drape the tarp over it, which is especially handy if you have snow in your area. Do a search in the forums and you'll see all kinds of cool ideas. There are also some cool DIY jack plates here in the forums if you feel you need one. Of course, iboats sells really nice covers and jackplates for decent prices too, if you don't want to go the DIY route (but that's no fun). Keep us posted. Happy Boating! Vroom-vroom......

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Finally got around to putting the data plates on the new oak transom. They were tricky getting off the old transom without bending or breaking them. Has anyone found a replacement for the originals? I sent an email to Alumacraft but the reply stated they did not have any left.... Also, bought a cover and installed it today. So far, its seems to be a pretty good cover for $55.00. Better then the quote for $500 from a local canvas shop. Boat is still being updated for a simple fishing rig. Over the weekend it prooved sucessful, 1 walleye, 1 pike, and dozen perch for the opening day of fishing season.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

I found something else to tinker with on the boat. I did not like the clamp on seats that came with the boat because they would slip off the bench seat when you would least expect it. And, they were leaving scratches on the seats, and difficult to tighten. I came up with a different idea that would not put any holes in the air tight floatation seats and keep the bench seats in tacked. I used a 3/4" piece of plywood and fastened the swival seat to that, then I strapped the plywood to the bench seats. It works great and has no movement when in the boat. Now I have a platform I could fasten rod holders or a fish finder without poking holes in the boat.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Thinking about cleaning the botton of the boat with "toon-brightner". Anyone use this stuff lately. Its been a while for me.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Last week I added a smaller board to the front seat. It has the same strap system as the rear seat and could be easily moved to the middle seat if needed. The key here is that no holes were drilled into the aluminum and they are portable. I also did some wiring for the rear anchor light and front nav light. I first tried a toggle switch but it was not able to be used by itself with the direct feed to the battery. I then decided on two prong quick connectors at the battery and at the light units. I have the same system for the trolling motor. Again, having the ability to easily remove the electronic is key for me since I will be storing the boat outside upside down during the winter. I'm using water pipe insulation for keeping the wires from dangling down into the boat. Also rod storage was an issue, but I found out that they go very well along side the oars on the side of the boat. See photos as needed.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Few more photos.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Nice work! I like the ratchet strap seat mounts.

 

[GF7508]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

More pic after cleaning transom.

Can u give me the exact process u are using to clean up the aluminum? I have 2 1957's that I want to do the same on.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Looks great.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Thanks for the compliment GF7. I really don't have an exact method to the polishing process, every boat requires different methods depending how bad the corrison is. On my boat the exterior was in pretty good shape, so I did not use any heavy abrasive methods such as sanding. I just used a 7" wool bonet on an electric drill and buffed it to a polish. I used Mothers Aluminum polish and it worked ok. To do a more detail job one would have to by metal polish that has different grit levels that act as a cutting method to polish aluminum. Google Airstream and Polish and you'll find a vast amount of polishing methods. ( I once owned a 1966 Airstream Globe Trotter and it came out pretty good.) The inside of the boat had some corrosion that was kind of abrasive so on that I used 600 wet sandpaper with WD - 40 as a liquid agent. Just enough to get smooth then hit it with some aluminum polish to refin the scratches. I left the bottom of the boat original. The problem with polishing is that you have to keep it up over time to get a clean look. Labor intensive but is it definently possible. However, the natural corrosion on the aluminum is said to protect it from the elements. If I had another boat in good shape I probably would not polish it. I would just give it a good cleaning and keep the grey look. According to the "RiverRunner" he suggests keeping the Alumacraft's in original condition and not polishing.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

I received the Alumacraft Decals today and I must say they are a great match to the originals. I purchased them from Big D's signs online. Below are a few photos and a couple other ads I found online. I also installed an ignition tune up kit and it the 20 hp runs pretty good so far. I'm glad I put the new points in so I know that its done.

 

[64osby]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Nice work and decals look great. I love the seat mounts, no holes. I've been working on that for my Lone Star, almost there. Hope the result is as good as yours.

Breaking it right, Perch for dinner.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Thanks for the interest and compliments. I really do like how the boat turned out and how easy it is to work on. Currently, my time has been working on my 18' Supersport with a 70 hp Evinrude. The motor has a leaking exhaust gasket and that has caused alot of work getting it back in the water. Family likes the bigger boat, but I prefer the 14' Alumacraft over it, much simpler, better for fishing, easier to tow, and just as much fun.

 

[tonynoriega2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

wow... this is great. I just got my first boat last week, and its a 16' 1953 Alumacraft... and this gives me great inspiration and hope that I can make her look nice and clean. The transom work you did really helps me too. Great job.

thx

 

[christd]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Hi, great job on the transom. Working on one exactly like it. I appreciate your posts and have started posting my work if you would like to look. My question is about the size of the bolts you used to put it all together. Did you recall those measurements? How is everything holding up?

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Thank you. The transom is holding up excellent and is probably stronger then the original because the aft transom piece is 3/4 plywood and not 1/2" plywood. I do not recall exactly the length of bolt I used but I think it was a 2" bolt with lock nut and washer. It allowed very little extra threads at 2" bolt. I can try to measure more closely when I get a chance. I also made another plywood seat holder for a third seat if needed. The nice thing about the straps is everything can be removed in a matter of minutes. I used Helsman polyurethen on the oak transom and it showed not wear in the first year. These are great boats for fishing and are very strong and sturdy. Good luck on yours.

 

[Vintin]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Nice looking work Backwaters. I've got an unmolested 1956 FD myself and love it. I cringe when I see what some do to these classic aluminum boats. It's great to see the respect you are giving yours!

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Been thinking about the FD under the 3 feet of snow in the backyard recently. I want to get a vintage motor to match the year of the hull. As I did some research from the Alumacraft site, I ran across some old brochures on the FD. This is a great site for 50s and 60s info. Vintagealumacraft dot com.

I noticed that my floor supports (ribs) run laterial to the keel and in the 1957 FD photos is shows the supports running the longitudinal direction of the hull. I'm thinking my hull is a 1956 based on this info. I originally emailed Alumacraft and their response was noted as a 1957 but I think that was not correct. Some of the info on other sites seems to contradict what the brochure says and what the "lady" from Alumacraft says about year id's. Here are some pictures to describe what may be a 56' and not a 57' FD. I'm currently searching for a 30 hp big twin from 1956 to keep the motor and hull a matching set. Also, the obmco tag on the boat limits the motor to 30 hp which matches the horse power offered in 1956 and in 1957 the motors went to a 35 hp and the FD tag was up to a 35 hp. I believe mine is a 1956.

 

[Backwaters2]

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[Backwaters2]

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I haven't added much lately to the boat because this spring I purchased a 1958 Aluma Craft Queen Merrie. However I recently sold that boat and between the two the FD won the battle. I didn't want two boats and since I fish most of the time I spent more time in the FD. Go figure. Today a Deep C caught my eye on craigslist but it was a little beat up. I'm still looking for an "Open C" but I have yet to find one for sale. When I look at the Deep C today, the seats seemed lower to the floor than on my FD. I'm not sure what hull would perform better, the FD or Deep C?

Queen Merrie Project: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...n-merrie/page2