An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

Drydocked

Cadet
Joined
Jul 10, 2001
Messages
24
I have a (hopefully) simple question...

Let's say I have a dead battery. The dash voltmeter says 10.8 volts with the key in the "On" position. I jump start the engine. What should the dash voltmeter say now while the engine is running?

Assuming the alternator and voltage regulator are OK (this is a 2004 DI two-stroke outboard, so I'm assuming it has a voltage regulator), should it read 10.8 volts, then increase until the battery is charged (approx 13V), or should it read 13-14V (charging voltage output from the engine) from the get-go?
 

Bondo

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Re: An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

or should it read 13-14V (charging voltage output from the engine) from the get-go?

Ayuh,... If it was showing 10.8 before you jumped it, it should show Higher when runnin'....
Otherwise, it Ain't charging...
 

justchange

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Sep 8, 2009
Messages
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Re: An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

Assuming you let the battery charge for a few minutes---


What did your volt meter read while charging.--It should have gradually increased.



AFter you start your boat, use a multi function meter on the volt setting. You can check volts off the alternator and at the battery.
 

KC4YIN

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Sep 6, 2009
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Re: An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

It should read somewhere around 13.6 or greater. As the battery reaches full charge, the voltage may drop but just slightly. My 2004 Yamaha F 150 with a new battery runs right at 14 volts always.
 

brianvolt7

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Re: An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

Under normal conditions it should show your charge voltage. If it shows less than 13.5 to 14.4 then I would fully charge the battery with a shore charger. Once you are sure you have a full charge then fire it up again and look for the charge voltage. If it does not go to 13.5-14.4 then something may be amiss with your charging system.
 

Fl_Richard

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Re: An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

If the battery has a shorted cell the charging circuit voltage may not come up.
 

rbh

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Re: An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

Cheap insurance is to replace the voltage regulator when you replace any alternator, as well clean the plug or replace the plug that goes to the regulator as it can oxidize badly.
rob
 

Drydocked

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Jul 10, 2001
Messages
24
Re: An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

If the battery has a shorted cell the charging circuit voltage may not come up.

Sorry, I am trying to debug a charging problem, and didn't put in all the details (trying to avoid confusing everyone). Basically, I have a setup like this, except I have an outboard (2004 Evinrude E-TEC):

http://www.westmarine.com/images/wa/chart.jpg

It has worked fine for a number of years. Recently, however, I noticed that the voltage level as reported on my digital sonar unit (which is hooked directly to the starting battery) was dropping, with the sonar unit reporting under 9.8V many times during the day, even with the motor running. The voltmeter on the dash would sometimes read low as well, but not always.

I was pretty sure the starting battery was not at 9.8V, because the battery could always turn over the motor, and if the battery was really only at 9.8V, it would be completely dead.

So I assumed that the voltmeter on the sonar was bad, and that the meter on the dash, because of the erratic response, was suffering from some corroded connections.

What seemed like further evidence that the meters were off was that if I set the switches to run off the house battery, the voltages read the same, even though the house battery was supposedly under less load, and isolated from the starting battery.

So I eventually got under the dash, cleaned all of the connectors to bare metal and reattached, then started the motor on the garden hose, and checked output voltage from the engine. I could measure 13.0-13.1 volts at the engine /battery lugs in the transom, across the battery switches, at the lugs on the starting battery, even all the way to the output pins of the sonar power cable.

The sonar unit was now reading 11.8 - 12.1V, but it was erratic, creeping up/down a few tenths of a volt every few seconds. So I assumed the sonar unit voltmeter was bad. The dash meter read 13V.

HOWEVER, on my last trip, both meters continued to show 9.8-10V most of the day, even though both batteries were fully charged by the on-board charger (Guest 2632) the night before. I ran the boat all day, mostly trolling, and what do you know...when I shut off the motor at 2:00pm to do a little bait fishing, the starting battery was dead. I switched over to the house battery, and it was also dead. I could not initially start the motor (large pucker factor, as we were 30 miles offshore).

Fortunately, by letting the system sit for a few minutes, I managed to scrape up enough volts to turn over the motor a couple of times, and thanks to E-TEC magic, the engine started and we were able to get home.

When I got home, I let the batteries charge again, and put a load tester on them yesterday. Both batteries appear to be OK, recovering to 12.4V after two separate load tests.

I'm beginning to suspect the combiner, as it is the only thing other than the on-board charger which is continuously connected to both batteries, and could have the potential to discharge both batteries simultaneously. However, for something to drain enough current to kill both batteries, I would have expected something to be smoking, or at the least extremely warm. No sign of anything like that.

Any thoughts? Suggestions? I hate having to disconnect everything and do trial-and-error debugging, but it's looking like I have no choice.
 

Jeep Man

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2,803
Re: An Alternator/Battery Charging Question

Depending on the make up of the charging system (not familiar with e-tec), it's possible you could have a bad rectifier, resulting in low charging capacity. When you have no load to minimal load, you have good voltage, but as soon as the load increased, the voltage drops. Have a load test done on the charging system. The other possibility is that something in the electrical syatem is causing excessive draw. An ammeter should be able to source this quickly.
 
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