Re: Anchor
Kalian,<br /><br />I recommend a Danforth style, 1/2 to 1x your boat length in chain, and at least 100 ft. of 3/8 inch rope (combination called "rode"). These kits are actually fairly good, but I think the chain is too short. If you go with the #8 you should be fine though. You could always extend the chain or piece this combo together. Use galvanized hardware and chain.<br /><br />
Hooker anchor kits on iboats <br /><br />The proper way to set is to gently drop the anchor overboard and let it fall, there is no need to throw it. Then slowly reverse to keep the anchor, chain and rope from "fouling" (tangled up) as it settles to the bottom. Many say that a "scope" (length of total rode vs. depth of water) of 5/1 or more is best. You may need 7/1 or more for really tough weather conditions, there are times I have to live with 3/1 or even less. When you have out the proper scope for the situation, secure the line as close to the center of the bow as possible and continue to reverse to "set" the anchor. There are many opinions like anything else, but I swear by chain as you may not be able to use 5/1 etc. in some spots on a small lake or cove. Chain helps the boat pull the anchor along the bottom as opposed to more up without it. Longer scope helps limit the need for chain.<br /><br />After setting, I line up a reference point on the shoreline with a fixed spot on the boat to insure that I am not "dragging" the anchor. After I am comfortable that it is firmly set I still recheck my visual reference often. I am especially vigilant if I have used less than optimum scope or the wind/current is of concern.<br /><br />When retrieving, maneuver the boat to as close to directly above the anchor as possible and pull with a quick strong tug directly up, this helps dislodge the "flukes". In some cases you may have to use power in the opposite direction of the original set to free it.<br /><br />There are lots of anchor threads here. Do a search and you will probably even find me contradicting above . . .

Good luck!!