Re: another beep and nada,zip problem
ok, place the meter leads on the battery posts not cable ends and check for at least 12.5 volts if not then check/charge the battery.
if 12.5 is present place one lead on the negative post and the other on the block making sure you have a good contact point, I use gator clips. crank the engine, if any more than .o5 volts is present you need to check/clean the ground connections.
now shift the meter leads, place one on the positive battery terminal,not cable end and the other on the battry side of the starter solinoid and crank engine anything over .04v is unacceptable,now shift the meter leads to one on each of the starter solinoid main terminals crank enginge,voltage should read less than .02v
what we are looking for is excessive resistance in the cables and cable ends.
no resistance means no voltage drop.
if you have a battery switch and the positive terminal to solinoid test fails then test the switch.
all voltage is is a potential difference between the source positive and source negative.
every electron that leaves the battery to engage the starter or anything else must be able to return, if it is restricted at any point you will have a voltage drop.
for example. the block to negative terminal test.
in that test if the cable and connections are perfect there will be NO restriction for the poor electrons heading home and thus no potential(voltage) difference betweeen the two points.
always remember voltage can roughly be compared tp pressure and NEVER flows, current can be compared to water flow in a pipe and will always take the path of least resistance and all of it must flow.
I am gonna give Tom's garden hose theory of trons.
imagine you left the hose with the nozzle on the end,laying in the sun with the supply valve off.
as the sun heats the water the pressure increases in the hose, you may have 30PSI in the hose(12v) .now squeeze the nozzle trigger, ya get a spurt and then nothing(bad connection,no flow).
now look at what ya have, ya turn the key on,not many trons are required, now ya turn it to start,there are enough trons,initially, to close the contactor(solinoid) but as soon as the starter motor asks for a couple hundred amps its just not avalible and the spurt is gone and it all shuts down.
this stuff aint hard but it requires reading and understanding why each piece is there and its relationship to the other pieces.
break it into pieces, the starting circuit has a bunch of stuff,break it into starter motor control circuits and the stater motor feed circuits and it gets easier.
on the control side you have the brown wire that applies 12v to the solinoid windings at start position.current flow is from the battery,through the start contacts in the keyswitch,through the nuetral start switch,usually inside the control box, back to the engine to the solinoid,throught the solinoid windings and back to the battery through the block(ground).
the 12v power tap for the keyswitch is on the battery terminal side of the start solinoid then the 20 amp fuse then the wire harness from the engine to keyswitch,battery feeds on yamahas are red and hot any time the battery is connected and any batt switches are on.
ign circuits for key on 12v is yellow and hot when the key is in the on position,starter control circuits are brown,some aftermarket boxs will have yellow/red wires for the nuetral start switch.
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