Another Bravo 3 Corrosion Issue

Will Fish

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 8, 2011
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164
While on my buddy's boat powered with a diesel with a bravo 3x drive, we started taking on water. Pump was going off every 30second intervals. Not a fun experience 70miles from home. Quick inspection showed water coming in from the transom plate, but could not see where. Needless to say we pulled the gear and hauled@$$ in. Boat was not leaking when running cause the boat was up on plane and transom housing mostly out of the water. After what seemed like an eternity to get back in we finally made it to the dock safely and started inspecting, to find no water intrusion??? Then started to flow when my buddy got on other side and his son was in the platform.. 550-600lbs in the stern. So come to find an actual corrosion hole the size of a nickle where the mercruiser sticker goes covering the steering arm. Remove the weight hole is out of the water and no leak. We even sprayed the hose in and sure enough cones right into the bilge.

So now to my question. I know merc makes a lot to fix this without having to remove the motor which would call for drilling into the housing and cutting out a template where his hole is. But is this all necessary? Can we just plate and seal the hole and call it a day? The steering arm looks fine without any corrosion and operates very smoothly. I was thinking of plating and seal it with 5200 and a couple screws. Also drill in a zerk fitting to grease it regularly, like the older alphas had. What are your thoughts?

How do all these bravos with the steering lever arm leaks look? Where is the water coming in on most of them to warrant replacement, which requires a lot of work to take everything apart.

Also I should mention, there is a brand new bellows, shift cable and exhaust. The water pick up is plated as he has a thru hull pick up for more water flow.
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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42,539
This kind of issue has come up before, and for the most part I think everyone that is in salt water should remove every decal on the drive. The decal allows water behind it sometimes, and the salt sits and corrodes the aluminum away.

You don't have to make the same size hole as with the JR Marine method, could just buy the JR kit and install as they sate and then it can be removed later if ever needed
 

Will Fish

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2011
Messages
164
That's what I'm thinking. I just don't want to do this and water comes in somewhere else. What causes people to have to change the steering arm? Where does water leak in from the steering arm?
 

alldodge

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That's what I'm thinking. I just don't want to do this and water comes in somewhere else. What causes people to have to change the steering arm? Where does water leak in from the steering arm?

This is caused by the top steering pin seal leaking water. The water seeps in and starts rusting out the steering pin. In most cases if (another IF) the top of the gimbal pin is out of the water when sitting with no one aboard, the seal most likely last a life time. Its only when the seal is under water even slightly all the time, which causes the seal to start to leak.

Had another thought, you might want to use an aluminum plate instead of stainless steel. The reason being that when stainless is used with aluminum the stainless gets seized up. Starting to thing, if an aluminum plate is used with aluminum rivets, and then sealed and painted, there should be no issue. Have not tested or asked the question, just me thinking out loud
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
Have a twin B1 for the same hole , looks like a electrolsys burn thru , both housings have that same burned thru look. Using the JR fix and just going to add the plates
 
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