Another question for the "EXPERTS"

[--GQ--]

I'll keep it short. If you take the thermostate out of the cooling system, cold water would circulate continously keeping the engine cool; hence eleminating over heating problem.<br /> If you notice by now my brain is only half full. please help me fill. Thank you!

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

Yes, but ...without saying what your engine is, I can't give you a real answer....I can only say that you are putting a band-aid on it & masking the real issue....You can/will damage your engine if you do not adress the real problem...Post your specifics...JK

 

[Don S]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

Yes, the water would circulate continously through the engine, unfortunatly, not through all of the engine. Therefore you would have hot sections of the engine that won't show on the gauge.<br />The thermostat when full open and partially open is always slowing down the flow for complete heat transfer and also for cold water to the distant spots on the engine.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

If its a raw water cooled motor, cold water flowing through the block of any engine with no resistance will NOT have time to transfer the heat off the hot surfaces, and believe or not, it COULD STILL overheat. The pump is pumping that water straight out the manifolds after a quick trip through the block, as the Raw pump is just pushing more in. And the rush of water creates turbulence, and a bubble/air barrier could form, and that will not transfer the heat. Hot spots could form. It could even get to 212, boiling what water is rushing past, and zero transfer. You need a thermostat to slow things down for heat transfer. Before we start an argument here, this isn't a closed system like car I presume. It will not matter so much in a car, as the same water is going around and around, so its the same water picking up the heat, cooling it, and sending it back to pick up some more, never letting the motor warm up. The circulation pump is the only thing pushing water around, not a 4-5 gallon a minute raw water pump.<br /> Another thing is your temp guage will read cool, but thats only the water temp that just came in the pump, through, and out the manifolds. It is NOT the block temp.<br /> Good subject, and has been discussed before. I have to go look for it..........

 

[trog100]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

the fairly commonly held theory that water has to pass slowly thru an engine for heat transfer and effective cooling to take place is quite simply wrong..<br /><br />air pockets and such.. possibly if the flow really is fast enough.. but i dont think that five or six gallons a minute is fast enough to cause air pockets.. its about half what my itty bitty little plastic bilge pump shifts..<br /><br />a stats job is to slow down the flow of coolant thru the radiator in a car.. coolant goes around the engine and gets heated up by it.. it really dosnt matter that much how fast it goes around the engine..<br /><br />the stat bleeds some of this hot engine coolant off and permits it to pass thru the radiator and get cooled.. this cooler "coolant" then mixes back with the "hotter" engine coolant and keeps the average coolant temperature (and engine) at whatever its designed to be at..<br /><br />with a raw water cooled boat there isnt a radiator the "cooler" coolant comes straight from the river/lake/ocean and passes straight thru the engine.. just like with the radiator system.. the "cooler" coolant mixes with the "hotter" coolant already in the engine and keeps things at the design temperature..<br /><br />past enough of that lake/river/ocean coolant thru the engine and the engine will end up at the same temperature as the lake/river/ocean temperature.. <br /><br />the stats sole job is to bleed off or permit just enough of the cooler lake/river/ocean coolant thru the engine to keep it at design running temperaure.. in other words to slow down the flow cos if it didnt (given enough flow) the engine really would end up at lake/ocean/river temperature..<br /><br />in a pefect system the temperature of the incoming coolant would be at the same temperature as the design running temperaure of the engine.. and there would be no need for a stat.. and no temperature variations thru the system.. a far greater coolant flow would be needed thru the engine thow..<br /><br />also the temp the temp gauge reads is only the coolant temp at the point the gauge sensor is fixed at.. in a car its mostly just where the coolant is about the leave the engine and pass thru radiator.. down the bottom where the "cooler" coolant enters the system its bound to be a lot cooler elsehwere it could be hotter..<br /><br />trog

 

[--GQ--]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

You guys are very well educated about the subject. All of you. The reason behind the question is this. (I posted this subject somewhere before). I'm hoping to experiment with the engine a little bit without damaging it. "You can't really learn without making mistakes", so they say.<br /> I bought a brand new boat about two months ago. Since the first day I put it to play, i notice the temp. guage reads around 210 degrees. According to the manual, it should be around 160. I have the option of taking it to the dealer, but I'm hoping to gain some knowlege out of this. Beside i don't want to drive way out there.I checked the empeller, flushed the engine, checked all hoes to no avail. I know the temp. works because it reads from 0 all the way to 210 degrees after 15 minutes or so at cruising speed (3300 rpm). I know the empeller and the water intake isn't blocked because the temperture guage fluxuate between plus/minus 10 degrees around the 210 mark. Therefore the thermostat must be working also. I am so tempted to take the thermostat out and see what happen. If the temp. still reads 210, is it safe to assume the problem is within the engine block (perhaps the piston rings)? In which case i bought a "LEMON"? Well maybe not the first time around. I need an excuse to go 6 cycl. anyhow. What do you make of it? Should i procede full speed ahead with the task or should i slow down and seek higher wisdom? Your thought chief!!!!<br /><br />2005 chaparral 180 ssi<br />4 cycl. 135 hps<br />2 months old 20 hours <br />wot 4200 - 4600 43mph

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

You need to post the make, model & year for us to be of any assistance....& whether you are Fresh water cooled or raw water cooled....JK

 

[QC]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

Careful trog . . . theoretical stuff isn't helping this guy. He needs the practical. running without a thermostat is not a good thing. Temperature variation is an issue etc.<br /><br />This thing is in warranty. He needs to take it to the dealer.<br /><br />GQ,<br /><br />This is your second topic on this deal. You sir HAVE to let FunCountry look at this thing. It may not be an engine issue. DO NOT take the thermostat out of this new boat. Get it right and then your worries are over for this issue. You either have a gauge a sender or a cooling system problem. None of these are solved by yanking the 'stat.

 

[Mile-High Mariner]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

GQ:<br /><br />If you're getting consistent gauge readings, I'd venture you may have a faulty temp. sensor. Your 3.0LX motor should be running at between 140 and 160, so 210 is a bit hot (and too close to the static boiling point of water).<br /><br />BTW - I was under the impression that the 3.0LX ran at 4400-4800 rpm WOT. 4200-4600 is the spec for the 3.0L (115hp).

 

[cobra 3.0]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

If your impeller is good and you don't have any blockage, either your temp sensor or temp guage is wrong. If you want to do anything on your own, check the back of the temp guage to see if it is set for your engine(4,6,8 cyl.). <br /><br /> Otherwise, I'd get it to the dealer. Shouldn't this 2 month old boat be under warranty?

 

[Bondo]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

"You can't really learn without making mistakes", so they say.

With a 2 month old boat,.......That's No Doubt under Warranty,.........<br /><br />You're going to "Learn" How to Void the Warranty...........

 

[SeaKaye12]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

Maybe somebody put a 210 degree stat in there by mistake?

 

[Richard Petersen]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

Wait until the warrenty runs out. Then have the dealer fix it, for money. Just like cash.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

Originally posted by trog100:<br /> <br />with a raw water cooled boat there isnt a radiator the "cooler" coolant comes straight from the river/lake/ocean and passes straight thru the engine trog

Wrong...ever see a thermostat housing lately? Without a stat, that water coming in will take the path of least resistance, and if the raw water pump puts out more than the circ pump, it's straight out to the exhaust and gone. And your thermal transfer/speed idea is garbage.

 

[trog100]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

yes dont **** about with a two month old boat.. take it to the dealer..<br /><br />trog

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

Point is boats cost $15,000 and up.When new,go back to the dealer.If you modify things trying to fix it yourself nothing is gained.And you make things harder to solve.If the dealer can't fix it ... then we can help.<br /><br />DHP

 

[--GQ--]

Re: Another question for the "EXPERTS"

Thanks a bunch. Your wisdom is above mine. hat off. I will take it to the dealer tomorrow and post the result when i get it back.<br /><br />and the engine is a 3.0 glp G=general motor; P=power steering<br />the temp. guage does not have a cyclinder setting.