Another Stringer Repair Question - by a Newbee

[oops!]

Re: Another Stringer Repair Question - by a Newbee

Thank God for you all - I would have just cut out the rot and screwed a sister board on the side of the stringer and glued down a new floor like we do in houses, glue down carpet and head for the lake! YIKES!

beleive it or not.......this is a fix that will work. (if glassed over) and in fact...in the problematic bow stringer area, you can do this.

if the breach you discussed is not in the bow area (more than likely it is) you can just cut out the rot in the forward stringers and sister new ones in.....then glass them to the hull. you can do this thru the acess of the ski locker, or the deck you cut away.

 

[oops!]

Re: Another Stringer Repair Question - by a Newbee

OK, so I got all the Stringers out - but haven't ground down the glass yet. I cannot get to the BOW Stringers for the Molded Fiberglass Seats & Floor. I've seen other guys cut these out and rebuild them - I'm looking for advice on where to cut AND will Cutting into this Compromise the Structure in any way?

Removing the CAP is not an option for me- although it would probably be the easiest?


View attachment 128846View attachment 128847

if removing the cap is not an option.....(it is far easier than you think).

and the breach is in the bow area......or the stringers are totally rotten up front......
you will need to cut the floor section of the cap away.
because of the metal flake gellcoat.....its going to need to be carpeted over after you are done.

make the cut at the deck line.....right in the corner.
follow the corner all the way around.....and keep the cut out peice. (this will give you an option)

after you cut out the floor of the fiberglass cap. there will be a ply deck under the glass cap. cut that out as well.....be careful yp near the bow.....as you are very close to the hull.....and you will more than likely go thru the hull ! but you can fix that later...just like the instructions above on the breach advised above.

once you have access to the area by removing the plywood.....dig the foam and the stringers will be right there.

i would also temporarily brace the sides of the consloes by placing a support under the vertical edges during re constriction.

after the stringer are replaced.....you will need to slide a peice of plywood under the consoles.....and screw it to the stringers.....tabbing of the bow sole can be accessed thu the under seat storage.

as you can see......this is a real pain in the ...!!!!!
you might re consider your ability to pull the cap if the breach is forward or the stringers are rotten up front.

I hope this gets you on track bud....

welcome to iboats

cheers
oops

 

[lutzsucceed]

Re: Another Stringer Repair Question - by a Newbee

This is a major hull breach.. if you can see wood from the out side of the boat.....the fiberglass has been worn away so water is now allowed to penetrate the unprotected stringer......this will need major repair.

to repair it.....the stringer must be removed and the glass ground down till you can openly see the breach.
then from the inside.....cut 3 peices of 1.5 csm....each larger than the last. cut 3 peices of 1708 the same size as each csm.

glass in the smallest csm over the ground down. vaccumed, and cleaned with acetone breach area. While still wet....lay the same sized 1708......then the next biggest csm and 1708 and repete. you can do this all at once.

the outer keel must be repaired as well......but you can do that after the stringers and sole are back in.
you will need the glassing practice before you tackle the outer hull of the boat.

OK, I'm officially Freaked out now. "Major Hull Breach" does not sound good. I should mention that the boat doesn't take on water - there was no water under the foam or anywhere in the boat. The stringers rotted from the top down AND it was dry rot - I haven't had any mushy water logged wood anywhere other than the sole. - given that the boat is 28 years old - I was surprised there wasn't water soaked into the foam and I'm not exactly sure how to proceed with this part of the repair -

I've removed all the Stringer Material I can with the exception of the two in the bow so I'm not sure I can "openly see the breach" if that makes sense. However I can (and will) get the boat repositioned on the Trailer tonight.

 

[lutzsucceed]

Re: Another Stringer Repair Question - by a Newbee

if removing the cap is not an option.....(it is far easier than you think).

and the breach is in the bow area......or the stringers are totally rotten up front......
you will need to cut the floor section of the cap away.
because of the metal flake gellcoat.....its going to need to be carpeted over after you are done.

make the cut at the deck line.....right in the corner.
follow the corner all the way around.....and keep the cut out peice. (this will give you an option)

after you cut out the floor of the fiberglass cap. there will be a ply deck under the glass cap. cut that out as well.....be careful yp near the bow.....as you are very close to the hull.....and you will more than likely go thru the hull ! but you can fix that later...just like the instructions above on the breach advised above.

once you have access to the area by removing the plywood.....dig the foam and the stringers will be right there.

i would also temporarily brace the sides of the consloes by placing a support under the vertical edges during re constriction.

after the stringer are replaced.....you will need to slide a peice of plywood under the consoles.....and screw it to the stringers.....tabbing of the bow sole can be accessed thu the under seat storage.

as you can see......this is a real pain in the ...!!!!!
you might re consider your ability to pull the cap if the breach is forward or the stringers are rotten up front.

I hope this gets you on track bud....

welcome to iboats

cheers
oops

OOPS - thank you for your Welcome and SUPPORT. I guess I could remove the cap - but If my options are to cut along the floor ( I need to read your post more carefully...) and replace with plywood/glass/carpet - I'm good with that. The Main issue is to get those two main stringers rebuilt and a continuous bond back to the bulkhead. Thanks for all the ideas! Dave

 

[lutzsucceed]

Re: Another Stringer Repair Question - by a Newbee

We Removed the Cap over the weekend! I wasn't able to reach the stringers up under the bow seats and didn't want to cut into the Consoles or Bow Seat Boxes so I went this route. I have great access to the entire hull now which is great for rebuilding the stringers and installing the new sole, however, I'm concerned about installing the Floor b4 I put the Cap on because I might change the width of the hull, IF that makes sense?

Comments? Advice? Ideas? Thank you.

 

[oops!]

Re: Another Stringer Repair Question - by a Newbee

, however, I'm concerned about installing the Floor b4 I put the Cap on because I might change the width of the hull, IF that makes sense?

Comments? Advice? Ideas? Thank you.View attachment 129873View attachment 129874View attachment 129875View attachment 129876View attachment 129877

Look at pic 5....
You have a point load on the speed strake....this will cause hull deformity when you re foam the boat.
that needs to be changed...before you proceed any further !!!!!!!

The bunks need to be between the speed strakes... with the weight distribution even between the keel rollers and the bunks.

to fix the situation...you will need to take the hull off the bunk and re adjust the bunk. you can just tilt the boat....you dont have to get a crane or get fancy, just jack up the side of the boat till it is off the bunk and re adjust the bunk so it is in the proper position.

you have to avoid a point load.

ya gotta fix that bud......congrats on pulling the cap... makes everything a whole lot easier !

 

[lutzsucceed]

Re: Another Stringer Repair Question - by a Newbee

ya gotta fix that bud......congrats on pulling the cap... makes everything a whole lot easier !

Oops, thank you for the support and the reminder to reposition the bunk that's my next project b4 proceeding - and a word to everyone about the removing the CAP. It wasn't near as difficult as I had imagined, however, you must have HELP AND A PLAN. Our Plan was to use rope & pulleys mounted to the rafters and had one man on each 4 corners and lifted a little at a time then reposition, tie off, and figured it out as we went. We we were as high as we could take it, we rolled the trailer out from under the cap. When the Consoles reached the Transom, we lifted the Bow enough to clear the Consoles (it was super light at that point...) and we were home free. Now the real work begins.