Anti-seize compound application

[nightvision]

Hi all, <br />I'm helping my uncle restore an older boat and a trailer. We are currently working on a trailer that has been in fresh water only and almost every other bolts and nuts are rusted and difficult to remove. <br /><br />I have a boat too and it started me to think that I should do some preventive maintance on my trailer nuts and bolts. I definately don't want them to get rusted and difficult to remove when I need to remove them. I did a little research and some recommend spraying wd40 around the nuts and threads. Other say use an anti seizing compound. Any pros and cons with this practice? <br /><br /><br />Also, how do you go about touching up rust spots on a relatively new trailer. What do you use to inhibit the rust before putting on touch up paint.<br /><br />Any recommenation would be greatly appreciated.

 

[KRS]

Re: Anti-seize compound application

look at this topic already posted on iboats http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=22;t=001830

 

[Solittle]

Re: Anti-seize compound application

My recommendations may seem an overkill to you but I been dunkin trailers in salt water for 35 years. First WD 40 is great for displacing water but not much good as a preservative (I buy it by the gallon). To preserve your trailer loosen all bolts and, using an electric drill with a wire wheel, hit all the rust. Use a high speed grinder to cut the stubborn bolts/nuts. If you have any "cancer" (identified by rust bubbles) chip the cancer out to bare metal. Then comes the secret - - Go to your favorite home supply store and buy a quart of Penatrol (light orange can). It is marketed as a paint leveling agent. It is very viscous and penetrates metal well. Slobber the Penatrol liberally with an old brush over all areas subject to rust. Let dry for a couple of days (it will dry like a varnish). Last slobber your favorite color of Rustoleum over the entire trailer (unless galvanized).<br /><br />If you were going to dunk your trailer in salt water I would recommend that you replace all fasteners with stainless steel if you plan on keeping the trailer for a number of years.<br /><br />Other trailer thoughts - Use Buddy Bearings & keep them full of grease. Don't forget to torque the lug nuts at around 90-100 lbs and make sure that you carry a breaker bar or equivalent if you have a flat & the lugs nuts are tight. Check tire pressure at least once a month & keep the pressure at max recommended on the sidewall. Carry a jack & wood blocks to support it if needed.<br /><br />Last - There is a trailer section here at iboats for most trailer related questions.

 

[KRS]

Re: Anti-seize compound application

WD40 is a water displacer, not a long-term lubricant. Use it to penetrate the lug nuts to remove them, scrub them with a wire brush to remove metal shavings and etc., then coat with anti-seize and live trouble free (always check lug nut torque after a few miles of driving).<br /><br />As for rust inhibitor... I have always used Rust-Oleum brand spray paint on the bared metal, let that cure, then paint it. It seems to inhibit further rust formation.

 

[Solittle]

Re: Anti-seize compound application

On the Rustoleum - buy it by the quart not the rattle can stuff.

 

[ron7000]

Re: Anti-seize compound application

wd-40 has it's applications, preventing rust on trailer hardware isn't really one of them unless you apply it once a week. It'll wash away as soon as it gets dunked if rain doesn't do it first. Any anti-sieze compound is much better and will definitely stay where applied to prevent rust. Stainless hardware is another solution, along with good paint over the fasteners if not using antisieze. Careful if you use antisieze on critical nuts and bolts- the kind that hold the axles or leaf springs to the trailer. On those you'll want to use lock washers and/or locking nuts, torque them properly so they don't back off, and maybe cotter pin them.