Any draw backs to moving batteries from the stern to the midberth?

[lime4x4]

I have a 86 searay 268 weekender. I'm thinking of moving my 4 large batteries from the stern to the large storage compartment i have in my midberth. Any draw backs to this besides taking some weight out of the stern?

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Any draw backs to moving batteries from the stern to the midberth?

Since you likely have a stern heavy boat to start with, anything you can move toward the bow will be a benefit -- a rather large one with that much weight movement.

 

[lime4x4]

Re: Any draw backs to moving batteries from the stern to the midberth?

Should i also run a vent from the compartment to the outside?

 

[lime4x4]

Re: Any draw backs to moving batteries from the stern to the midberth?

Also is ok to use automotive battery cable? We buy it in bulk where i work. I use brass/bronze lugs which i heat up with a propane torch then fill half way up with solder then stick the cable in while it's still hot. Once cool i seal where the cable goes into the lug with liquid electrical tape.

 

[dingbat]

Re: Any draw backs to moving batteries from the stern to the midberth?

You're going to need a good size cable back to the starter. Be sure to size it properly or you'll have problems.

On the automotive cable, If boating only in freshwater you could most likey can get away with it but for SW usage you should really use Marine (tinned) cable. Once moisture gets under the jacket of a standard copper cable the cancer acts quick.

 

[jlinder]

Re: Any draw backs to moving batteries from the stern to the midberth?

I would have concerns with your method of putting the ends on. The method you describe has a possibility of creating a cold solder joint.

If you must solder, you should tin the wire first with solder then dip into the lug.

On the other hand, there are a lot of people who believe a crimped connection is better (me included).

What ever you do, make sure to get some heat shrink to cover the connection. This will help avoid the green meanies.

When you get the heat shrink see if you can find the type with internal glue/gunk/putty (not sure what to call it). When you heat the shrink it not only shrinks and grips the cable but the inside turns a little gooey and you get an air tight connection.

 

[lime4x4]

Re: Any draw backs to moving batteries from the stern to the midberth?

I do tin the cable ends prior to installing in the lug. What size wire from the alt to the batteries? The distance is 9 feet. The way my boat is setup i can have the 4 house batteries setup to run everything on the boat and then install a single battery next to the engine for starting the motor.

 

[QuadManiac]

Re: Any draw backs to moving batteries from the stern to the midberth?

With 25 years of electronics engineering experience, a lot of it building hardware for extreme and dangerous locales, I will only field lugs that are BOTH crimped and soldered.

The crimping provides significantly more mechanical strength than solder, but only contacts a small surface area of the copper wire, both increasing the joint's resistance and leaving it open to corrosion. By soldering after crimping, you get the mechanical strength of the crimp and significantly more contact area between the conductor and the lug minimizing resistance and the possibility of corrosion. It is the best of both worlds, and I've seen VERY few failures over the years, compared to either method alone.

For this method, it's better to crimp stranded wire without tinning. The stranded wire conforms to the crimp better than a pre-tinned end, which has then become 'solid'. Then solder with enough heat to heat up the lug and wire quickly to minimize insulation melting. I've used anything from large soldering irons and guns to oxy-acetelyne with a spreader, process determined by the lug size.

Cover the whole joint with hot-melt glue encapsulating heat shrink tubing and you've got a joint that will last, virtually, forever.

A little more work, a LOT more reliability!