Anybody ever rebuilt a power trim?

bman1bpm

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 19, 2004
Messages
450
hey I'm looking on info on how to rebuild my power trim, it goes up fine, sometimes it needs a little help to get started, but it sinks back down pretty quickly. Theres no info in my clymer manual.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: Anybody ever rebuilt a power trim?

Helps to know exactly what year/model your motor is. I did mine without too much problem. I have a 1988 125 on a 19' Bayliner Cobra. Trim and tilt cylinders were easy. There are some "O" ring seals on the piston inside. Pretty straight forward. Had no problems replacing the "O" ring seals. Hardest part was the valve assy. attached to the bottom of the trim/tilt motor. There are some "O" ring seals in it too, but also, small steel balls to control fluid. Couldn't find any diagrams to tell me exactly where these balls go. They fall out of place when you take if off of the trim/tilt motor. 1st try after re-assembly, motor would trim/tilt up OK, but wouldn't go down. Took me a coulpe of days to figure out exacly where the balls went. Once I figured it out, it works like a champ. Cost about 20 dollars in parts. A lot cheaper that a replacement unit. Check out this site. http://www.crowleymarine.com/index.cfm. They sell the "O" rings. I just took my old "O" rings and piston assy. down to the local hydraulic cylinder repair shop and they matched up the "O" rings with better "viton" rubber replacements. There are some posts on this site that were very helpful in giving me the information needed to complete the task.
 

bman1bpm

Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 19, 2004
Messages
450
Re: Anybody ever rebuilt a power trim?

Its a 1979 Chrysler 140 sorry thought I had included it.
 

Scaaty

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 31, 2004
Messages
5,180
Re: Anybody ever rebuilt a power trim?

Helps to know exactly what year/model your motor is. I did mine without too much problem. I have a 1988 125 on a 19' Bayliner Cobra. Trim and tilt cylinders were easy. There are some "O" ring seals on the piston inside. Pretty straight forward. Had no problems replacing the "O" ring seals. Hardest part was the valve assy. attached to the bottom of the trim/tilt motor. There are some "O" ring seals in it too, but also, small steel balls to control fluid. Couldn't find any diagrams to tell me exactly where these balls go. They fall out of place when you take if off of the trim/tilt motor. 1st try after re-assembly, motor would trim/tilt up OK, but wouldn't go down. Took me a coulpe of days to figure out exacly where the balls went. Once I figured it out, it works like a champ. Cost about 20 dollars in parts. A lot cheaper that a replacement unit. Check out this site. http://www.crowleymarine.com/index.cfm. They sell the "O" rings. I just took my old "O" rings and piston assy. down to the local hydraulic cylinder repair shop and they matched up the "O" rings with better "viton" rubber replacements. There are some posts on this site that were very helpful in giving me the information needed to complete the task.

The clickable link in my post has pix. And my Seloc manual has a Trim Section..
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: Anybody ever rebuilt a power trim?

Its a 1979 Chrysler 140 sorry thought I had included it.

first thing you need to do is replace the manual release valves. You'll have to do it anyway whether you do a full or partial repair. It's quite possible that replacing the manual release plugs will fix your system without any other work. So do that first and then decide whether or not to do the other stuff.
 

bman1bpm

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 19, 2004
Messages
450
Re: Anybody ever rebuilt a power trim?

where are the manual release valves located?
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Anybody ever rebuilt a power trim?

There are no manual releases. The ONLY Chrysler engines with manual release were the smaller mid sized engines with TILT only units.

The hydraulic cylinder O ring seals almost never go bad on these units. The most common failure is a small O ring inside the valve body.

All you need to do is to drop the pump unit so you can access the back valve assembly. Then switch the rear valve for the front. That is the difficult part if you have valves held in with circlips. If they are the screw in types, then it is easier, and if you carefully pry off the pressed on valve cap after unscrewing the valve, you can easily replace the small internal O ring which does all of the pressure holding work. Circlip held valve bodies are not rebuildable.

The front valve keeps the engine tilted up and gets all the wear--The O ring inside valve goes bad. The rear valve gets almost no use and O ring usually is still good.

If you are ever around the upper bay--Baltimore, Turkey Point, Sassafras River etc. shout up Amanda Ford on the radio. She is a 21 foot Manatee cuddy with a Chrysler 140. I go there a few times a season if at all possible.
 

bman1bpm

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 19, 2004
Messages
450
Re: Anybody ever rebuilt a power trim?

Sounds good to me, thanks. I'd be nice if I could find a manual somewhere with drawings. Do you know of anywhere I could get a good used valve body if mine hapens to be the type with circlips?

I don't know that I'll be up in that part of the bay, I'm way down south by Calvert Cliffs.
 
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