Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

Texasmark

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

Anything you read on my March post is old news. I took the alum foil off almost as fast as I put it on. I am currently back to the original surface gap NGK plugs. I solved some other problems and engine is running fine again. Yes the plug wires radiate....my timing light plug wire clip just needs to get close to a plug wire (no need to clip it around the wire) to fire the light but it is not causing any ignition problems.

Mark
 

dandreye

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

> I am currently back to the original surface gap NGK plugs.

BUHW-2 or BUZHW-2? (both are surface gap type) If you mean you installed original BUHW-2 ones back (which that NGK tech guy said were missing Z) and the foil is off does the engine start as good as it did with BUZHW-2 ones? I understood your March 2nd, 2012 post the way that Z in BUZHW-2 improves ignition performance as good as aluminium foil wrapped around all 3 spark plug wires when using BUHW-2 and therefore the latter ones w/o the foil result in inferior performance.

Also wondering if you've ever tried using any other spark plugs in your 90 ELPTO (e.g. iridium?) that improved performance further w/o sacrificing engine lifetime or any other adverse side effects, or perhaps heard others report it? Not to say that I'm unhappy with BUZHW-2 ones but why not spend even twice as much for something that is known to boost performance.


Thanks in advance,

Dmitriy
 

Texasmark

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

I'm in the house now and later on today I'll be out in the shop. Will get you the SG and conventional numbers. I think Silvertip put me onto the model number for the conventional plugs. My service manual has 2 plug part numbers listed but it was printed in Dec. '97 and the better performing SG could have come out after that.

Manual calls for NGK BUHW-2 or if inductor type (RFI suppression) NGK BUZHW-2. What's interesting is that for the 4 cyl engine of the series in higher hp rating, it specs a conventional plug: NGK BP8H-N-10 with a .040 gap. Figure that one out. Since the 4 cyl only runs on 2 cyls at lower rpms, it may have to do with less fowling.

Mark
 

Dave1027

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

What's interesting is that for the 4 cyl engine of the series in higher hp rating, it specs a conventional plug: NGK BP8H-N-10 with a .040 gap. Figure that one out. Since the 4 cyl only runs on 2 cyls at lower rpms, it may have to do with less fowling.

Nope. The gapped plugs are for a smoother transition from 2 to 4 cylinders but I tried them (I have the 4 cyl) and did not like them. While they do succeed at smoothing the transition they don't seem to hit as hard out of the hole.

This motor, if working properly does not foul plugs even with the surface gap plugs.
 

Texasmark

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

Nope. The gapped plugs are for a smoother transition from 2 to 4 cylinders but I tried them (I have the 4 cyl) and did not like them. While they do succeed at smoothing the transition they don't seem to hit as hard out of the hole.

This motor, if working properly does not foul plugs even with the surface gap plugs.

What you said is why I put my SGs back in. The gap on the conventional is .040. I measured the gap on my SGs and it was .060. As I said a week or so ago, the size of the gap determines the energy in the spark when the gap breaks over and consumes this energy. Since energy goes as the square of the voltage, a 50% increase in the gap increases the energy in the spark the square of that increase......size matters!!!

Mark
 

dandreye

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

So the rule of thumb for this outboard looks quite simple then: always use BUZHW-2 or (if they're unavailable) BUHW-2; don't look for better alternatives as there are none.
 
M

Maxz695

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

I don,t know where or why But it said never run resistor plugs which would be the NGK BUZHW-2. I have been following this post. I have been consistantly using NGK BUHW-2 when rebuilding and the crap that comes after a rebuild I used the cheaper autolite plugs ith seemingly as good as NGK results. I have been pondering the NGK BUZHW-2 and may think about using them on a trail run. I havn,t had much in the way of fouwling other than for expected rebuild interference. I have a bit of a way to go to get it in the water but re registered the boat today, trailer and ramp next. Hoping for a good calm half way decent day to take it for a spin. will advise if and when I use these plugs. I had gooten advise also about porting the prop. If after I take it out I may consider this modification, But as stated a stainless steel prop acts better than an aluminum prop so porting it may be frugle. Test test test. Shes gonna be tweaked on the link and sinc tomarrow. She is sounding really promising at present.
 

dandreye

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

I thought both BUZHW-2 and BUHW-2 have a resistor, just different type: inductor type (coil) vs conventional type resp.
 
M

Maxz695

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

Still wondering why it was said not to use resistor plugs I,ll look into it. I know one thing running resistor plugs in my 1967 chrysler 300 was a NO NO!!! The radio and other devices such as a ham radio walkie talkie cell phone etc etc resistor plugs will interfere with the freuecy. So the advantages of a faster longer firing plug may lead to plug interuption while underway and trying to notify the coast gaurd in an emergency, your boat running like crap when using a device etc etc. If you want to use them go ahead but me I,ll stick to the reommended type thanks. I don,t care what NGK says there not out there in the great big blue with a storm coming in.
 

Dave1027

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

You use the resistor plugs (Z) if you have either a computer based motor like the EFI or you have sensitive electronics such as GPS or fish finders. All other use the standard plugs. The resistors reduce RFI interference.
 

dandreye

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Re: Anybody Running NGK BUZHW-2 Plugs?

Sorry feeling somewhat confused now. Re-phrasing the March 3rd, 2012, 12:28 PM post:

- BUZHW-2: longer coil saturation resulting in a higher voltage to fire the plug, hence longer spark time, which *may* result in better combustion, however the spark itself is somewhat weaker due to energy loss from the resistor

- BUHW-2 (no Z): lower voltage to fire the plug, hence shorter spark time but stronger spark?

What's better out of these two *for combustion* in non-EFI engines like 90 ELPTO assuming RFI from the latter ones cannot confuse the trigger circuitry in these engines contrary to the NGK statement? Is a longer yet weaker spark more certain to ignite the mix than a shorter yet stronger spark or it's the other way round?

As for all on-board electronics, it'll clearly suffer less with the Z ones. I've never had any problems with my Garmin eTrex.
 
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