Anyone ever pull a driveshaft from a 2013 115 or bigger lower unit?

vcaptain

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I made a huge mistake and ran the lower unit without enough oil. The bearing on top of the drive shaft is toast. I got everything apart, but pulling the driveshaft was a huge pain. Has anyone else done it? I', trying to figure out if the bearing was one solid piece, or is a bearing, and two races? If you are wondering how I got it out, I made a mini jack with a bolt coupler and some nuts, put it in the case and cranked it up and out. The top race is intact, the bottom race seems to be fused to the drive, I'm going to take it to a machine shop and see if they can get it off. Any help is appreciated.
 

vcaptain

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I should have said, it's a Suzuki, 115hp, 2013 model.
 

vcaptain

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trying to upload photos, the black and white is from the manual, clearly shows it separated.
 
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99yam40

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Bearings seize to shafts when they go bad, lock up and spin on shaft and gall.
pic shows a tapered roller bearing they have the outer race separate from the other part.
the cone has the inner race and roller with cage all in one piece.
only bearing I have seen you could not take apart was a ball bearing

would help if you posted a complete model # of motor when you ask questions about it.

Yours should be a Df115.
I have taken apart a DT150 before, but that was a long time ago and do not remember a lot about it
 

schematic

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machine shop will have no problem....a little heat and/or welding on the race and it will slide off
 

vcaptain

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Machine shop failed, the bearing welded itself to the shaft, no way to get it off without ruining the shaft. So new $400 shaft ordered, will update.
 

vcaptain

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Machine shop failed, no charge, they tried everything, but it basically welded itself on, no saving it, fyi, the new bearing isn't going on easy, it's gotta be hammered, and the new race is the same deal, hammered in. They don't mention this once in the manual.
 

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99yam40

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I have never seen a bearing that had to be hammered on.
If it will not just slip onto the shaft, then usually you use a bearing heater(oven will work in a pinch) to heat it up and then slip it into place before it cools down.

you might want to mike the bearing and shaft to see how close a fit it is before trying anything else

by the way a race can be cut/ ground down thin in a couple of places and then using a chisel and hammer break the race.
just be care full of flying pieses of bearing race or chisel.
I just paid over $400 to have a surgen remoe a piece from my right index finger that was in there for over 40 years so i could get a MRI done
 

vcaptain

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I have never seen a bearing that had to be hammered on.
If it will not just slip onto the shaft, then usually you use a bearing heater(oven will work in a pinch) to heat it up and then slip it into place before it cools down.

you might want to mike the bearing and shaft to see how close a fit it is before trying anything else

by the way a race can be cut/ ground down thin in a couple of places and then using a chisel and hammer break the race.
just be care full of flying pieses of bearing race or chisel.
I just paid over $400 to have a surgen remoe a piece from my right index finger that was in there for over 40 years so i could get a MRI done



Have you worked on late model suzukis? I've found zero info, but based on my dismantle of this lower unit, the upper race and the bearing are both, pressed/hammered in. No WAY thy slip in and rotate with the shaft, it's designed that way. If you want a pdf of the manual, msg me, anyone else too. 47mbs
 

vcaptain

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and all the oil seals are doubled up with a grease seal, anyone ever seen that? My first time seeing this.
 

99yam40

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Take my info as you want or not, it does not matter to me.
I have worked in many different areas of all kinds of motors over my life time and have never seen a bearing you had to beat onto a shaft.

can you beat one onto a shaft, yes you can
heating works so much better.

why would there be a grease seal on a shaft that has oil lub?
 

vcaptain

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Take my info as you want or not, it does not matter to me.
I have worked in many different areas of all kinds of motors over my life time and have never seen a bearing you had to beat onto a shaft.

can you beat one onto a shaft, yes you can
heating works so much better.

why would there be a grease seal on a shaft that has oil lub?


I'm just telling you what I'm going through here, I've never encountered anything like this, I'm no expert, but have rebuilt two lower ends prior without anything being pressed or hammered in. That's why I am looking for someone who has done this, on a 2013 or later, if not, then it's all speculation.
 

vcaptain

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Here we go, got all the oil seals done, I need that new rear bearing assembly before I can do anything else. Hopefully tomorrow.
 

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99yam40

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talk to your local Suk dealer/shop if you want the proper info,
they are the ones that deal with this stuff all of the time

good luck with you repair
 

vcaptain

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talk to your local Suk dealer/shop if you want the proper info,
they are the ones that deal with this stuff all of the time

good luck with you repair

Thank you, I have tried, they are very unhelpful in this regard. They just quote me a price of $3000 to replace, and that's BS.
 

vcaptain

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Got the bearing on, heated it up, and still had to hammer it on, but it's on , nice fit. Used the extension from my floor jack to hammer it in, working on a new $400 driveshaft is a bit nerve wrecking.
 

vcaptain

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Update, hammering the bearing on with anything wider than the inner dia ring will ruin the tapered bearing. I got a new one on by slowly hammering with a punch on the inner race only, spinning the shaft as I went, and got it seated. I'm going to have to hammer the race in the same way. This is about the 3rd lower unit I have done, before this 2013, a honda 1995 15hp. I've never had to hammer a bearing or race in, this is a first. Anyone out there done this before? Thank you.
 
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vcaptain

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here we are
 

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