AQ125 Oil pan

[nwbayliner1122]

Hi, I have a rusty, drippy oil pan on an old bayliner explorer that needs to come out. I was wondering if anyone has done this and happens to know if it will come out without pulling the engine. Also, I found a used oil pan on ebay for a AQ120, which looks the same and has the same number of bolt holes as my AQ125, and just wanted to know if anyone can verify this will work for me. Thanks!

 

[kenny nunez]

It depends on how much clearance there is below the engine, you might be able to do it by removing the oil pump suction screen Once the pan is dropped.
The engine is not too heavy and is easily separated from the flywheel housing and rigging a 4”x6” across the top of the gunnels with a chain hoist in case there is not enough room to drop and replace the pan with the engine in place.

 

[jerryjerry05]

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Find the 120 and 125 and compare the part #s???

 

[Scott Danforth]

you have to pull the engine. it literally is only a 30 minute job once the drive is off.

 

[kenny nunez]

Actually the Volvo AQ models do not need the drive removed to separate the engine from the flywheel housing. Hopefully the PDF shaft is not rusted to the flex plate coupler.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Actually the Volvo AQ models do not need the drive removed to separate the engine from the flywheel housing. Hopefully the PDF shaft is not rusted to the flex plate coupler.

it does make things easier if you have the motor and PDS hanging from the hook. that way if the PDS is rusted to the coupler splines, you can use a PFH and a BF-Pry Bar and get it off. and then you can replace the PDS bearings. Not to mention its longer to get to the dust shield screws from above than it takes to pull the drive and then the whole motor/PDS housing as a unit.

 

[kenny nunez]

If I could not separate it at the flywheel housing all I ever did was pull the upper gear box like you said.
I always pulled the upper if it was a V8 but always took a shot with separating at the flywheel housing on the 4 bangers.
Quite often I encountered a situation where the heads of some of the 6 bolts were eaten away from electrolysis then the real fun began.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If I could not separate it at the flywheel housing all I ever did was pull the upper gear box like you said.
I always pulled the upper if it was a V8 but always took a shot with separating at the flywheel housing on the 4 bangers.
Quite often I encountered a situation where the heads of some of the 6 bolts were eaten away from electrolysis then the real fun began.

thats why I coated everything that was exposed on the clamp ring with two layers of permatex #3, then I sprayed the bolts with a layer of boeshield prior to installing the drive.

 

[kenny nunez]

Amen to that brother. I also always sprayed the oil pan and timing cover with 3 M undercoat on every engine I replaced.