AQ125A Volvo Penta Idle Issues

familyman12345

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Joined
Apr 11, 2022
Messages
4
Thank you for any help. I have been scouring this forum and the internet and pulling out whats left of my hair trying to get this boat to run.

I have the 4cyl Volvo Penta with the 270 outboard, Solex single barrel carb, mechanical advance dist, and mechanical fuel pump.

I bought this boat brought it home started it figured it would run so I dumped 1k into the carpet and upholstery. I took it out on the water and then found leaks at the oil cooler fittings and the fitting doing into the exhaust. (which I fixed)not really relevant I don't think but trying to give the whole picture.

The boat started right up and idled fine. felt a touch high but worked perfectly. We launched and as I approached 2,000 Rpm's the engine would try to die. If I tried to give more throttle (fuel) it seemed to choke itself out. with all the leaks the engine would overheat until I manually put more water into the system to cool it off for a min. this whole time I still could not get the engine to give me any more power that 2000 RPMs. so I set to fix the issue.

I took it home and ordered the rebuild kit for the Carb. I watched several great videos on it and did my due diligence in cleaning it out and spraying it out with my compressor. there was no visible damage to any gasket or the accelerator pump diaphragm. there were no clogs that I could identify and no jets that seemed to be blocked at all. if I disconnected the throttle I could always get a steady stream of fuel or if I manually pumped the accelerator. Before I put it together I turned the engine over several times and there was more than enough fuel coming from the fuel pump. (I had to install a clear inline filter as there was no filter before at all.) I counted 3 rotations from closed on the idle air adjustment and put it back exactly as it was.

Now I'm getting a completely different issue without putting 3-5 pumps of the throttle worth of fuel into the bowl the engine would not fire. then when it did fire it would rev high and die. without continuing to keep pumping the throttle to keep a steady stream of fuel on the carb it would just die. now I could rev way more than 2000 RPMs but it will not stay running whatsoever.

Since then I have taken the carb apart 3 more times to make sure everything was correct and had a friend who knows carbs quite well come over and take it apart and put it back together 3 more times. My friend is positive that it is a fuel-air issue but still cannot identify the problem.

I have a timing light and hooked it up as well to try and adjust timing. I replaced the cap and rotor. the points were correct at .016 the timing is a bit difficult as it's hard to keep at the same rpms but I've read that it should be at 6 degrees btdc and at 10 degrees btdc at 900 rpms. I have tried all of it and seem to have tried everything in between. almost all of the timing seems to give the same issue where I can get it to run with enough fuel being pumped in but any time that I'm not pumping the throttle the engine will just die. or take a lot to keep going if we don't pump enough in to keep it over 1500 rpm. if you stop pumping for even a sec it will die.

There are new plugs and wires on it as well.

where before I messed with it it would start and idle but not go over a certain rpm now I can't get it to stay running no matter what I have the idle air, idle screw, or timing is set to without pumping fuel in manually.

I'm completely out of ideas and have spoken with 4 people who have all come to the same conclusion that it must be a carb issue. I went to get a compression tester but was met with several people saying the same thing if I can get it to run while pumping fuel at 2-3k RPMs that compression would not be the issue so I did not follow through with the test.

I am ready to just buy a new carb fuel pump and or distrib but I have a hard time believing that any of them have an issue after all the troubleshooting and care were taken to make sure there were no clogs.

I would be ok with an upgrade but I do not want to go electronic as it would be too much to spend. also, the tank was about a quarter full of fuel and sealed well. it sat for one winter outside. I just filled it up full with non-ethanol fuel and put 1/2 bottle of sea foam in it. as the filter is clear i can see that the coloration of the fuel is not bad either.

any help or advice would be greatly appreaciated! thank you all in advance
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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50,234
What is your compression numbers?

Use a dwell meter to set dwell

Set timing

Go back to the carb
 

familyman12345

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Apr 11, 2022
Messages
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I was afraid that someone was going to ask about the dwell. I've done some research and am confused as to how to accomplish this with a digital multimeter. can you offer an explanation on how to do it or do I need to find an old dwell meter? the explanations ive seen on the internet on how to read dwell with multi meter confuses me.
 

familyman12345

Recruit
Joined
Apr 11, 2022
Messages
4
do you not think that Instead of measuring the dwell I can just use a feeler gauge and set the points to .016 and be good?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,234
I was afraid that someone was going to ask about the dwell. I've done some research and am confused as to how to accomplish this with a digital multimeter. can you offer an explanation on how to do it or do I need to find an old dwell meter? the explanations ive seen on the internet on how to read dwell with multi meter confuses me.
you get a dwell meter
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,234
do you not think that Instead of measuring the dwell I can just use a feeler gauge and set the points to .016 and be good?
No, not unless you filed the points perfectly parallel. you can be close enough to run in an emergency, however you will be off.
 

familyman12345

Recruit
Joined
Apr 11, 2022
Messages
4
ok.
Compression
1. 140
2. 130
3. 135
4. 135

did not file point. gapped to .014 per old timer telling me to account for a bit of wear.

bought an automotive multimeter which had dwell and found a video on how to use it. the man in the video was getting a readout while it is cranking but to no avail, I could not. the readout would come in 3 different numbers after I stopped cranking. as soon as I go back to cranking it would go to 0. I checked connections and I was hooked up correctly. I have repeated this process many times and bot the same thing every time.

too carb off cleaned one more time and replaced. same issue.

timing is difficult since it will only rev up and then die. but it's at about 30btdc at 3000 RPMs
 

ripjmk

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 26, 2019
Messages
152
As it idled fine before you removed the carb maybe you missed something putting it back. It sounds like you now have an air leak in the inlet manifold, you replaced the carb/manifold gasket didn't you? If yes, did you check it was identical to the one removed? Did you remove any screws or bolts from the manifold that didn't get reinstalled?
 
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