AQ130D Engine Assembly

[74bayliner]

So yesterday i got a call from my machine shop they are done cleaning the block and everything is done.
I will be taking it home today and starting the process of building the bottom end of the engine. And getting this close to the process I would like to confirm a few things. Such as putting together the block internals is all the same as a car right?

Do i need to put gasket sealer on any of the gaskets, or maybe a different type of grease (i will be using white lithium grease) to use?
I will be doing the timing and everything after i thouroughly read through the Sticky over and over.

But any comments would be appreciated. Thanks

-vlad

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

Nothing out of the ordinary for the engine itself. Use engine assembly lube or grease on the bearing surfaces. No gasket sealer needed for this portion of the job. The torque specs are toward the back of the shop manual so be sure to use a torque wrench. Head torque sequence is the the reassembly section. Don't overdo the assembly lube in the cylinders. Just lightly oil them. You can rent ring expander tool and ring compressor from Auto Zone.

I did all the cleaning and painting at this point. Polished all the brass while the paint was drying.

Take your time with the cooling tubes. They will need to be gently bent into place to be sure all the sockets seat fully. When you pick up the exhaust manifold with the cooling tubes in place, be careful what parts you grab hold of. You can ruin an hours wiorth of work by making the mistake of pulling on the cooling lines. After the first run, I go back and realign all the cooling tubes and bed them in with Permatex red, hi temp RTV. The leakers will be obvious.

I find it easier to mount the carbs to the intake manifold before placing the maniflod on the engine. When on the engine, some of the nuts are really hard to get to.

Oil pump shaft/gear assembly can be a little tricky to get in the right way. You may need to do this several times to get the correct alignment and position. You can turn the oil pump shaft with a long screwdriver to get the ears into position. This applies to the distributor positioning as well. Look at the gear carefully. You'll notice that the slots are slightly off center. That means that the distributor only fits correctly one way. Tighten it down when 180 off and you can break the aluminum hold down clamp. You may want to hold off on putting the pan on until you get this done correctly. There is a small sleeve that goes over the shaft and ears, if the sleeve falls off and into the pan, you'll be taking it off again anyway.

Cam gear is pretty easy to sync with the crank gear. Just remember that the oil pump gear and fuel pump go in AFTER the cam goes in. Not a biggie but if you put them in first, you'll learn the error of your ways quickly. Oil pump gasket goes between the spacer and the pump. If there is a wear groove on the cam spacer, flip it over so the groove is facing out.

That's about all I can think of right now. Let us know how it goes.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

Yes, goes together like a car engine. Make sure you have a nice accurate torque wrench, a clean, well lit area to work in, and plenty of clean shop towels.

White lithium such as Lubriplate 105 is fine, but may make reading the oil a little difficult as it tends to cloud up. Did the machine shop check your bearing clearances with the crank? If not, you will need to get some plastigauge to check your clearances.

Gaskets should go on dry, unless you encounter corners, where a little dab of RTV on a very clean surface will help the seal.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

One more thought...

If you have to install the core plugs, I prefer to apply a little bit of gasket shellac around the rim of the plug to help them seal. Smells good too! Your choice though...

 

[74bayliner]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

The Core Plugs were done at the machine shop and he did not check the clearings for me so i anticipated that and i will stop by the auto parts shop to pick those up today.

I will be getting/have the following:

Plasti-gage - Will get

White Lithium Grease - Have

Clevite 77 Bearing Gaurd lube - Will try to get (I heard this stuff really protects the bearings on the first start) If not this would above lithium grease work?

Moly Lubricant - For cam lobes & cam gear

What kind of Oil should i be putting into the engine for its first run, and if different what kind of oil for each oil change?
5w-30 10w-30?

Please let me know if any of the above is not necessary or excessive. Thanks for your help so far

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

Clevite 77 Bearing Gaurd lube - Will try to get (I heard this stuff really protects the bearings on the first start) If not this would above lithium grease work?

The white lithium or some really heavy engine oil will work fine for dressing the bearings if you can't find the flavor of lube you want.

What kind of Oil should i be putting into the engine for its first run, and if different what kind of oil for each oil change?
5w-30 10w-30?

If it were mine, I would probably use strait 30 or 40 weight detergent oil (make sure the bottle DOESN'T say non-detergent). That's what I run in the 170.

5W-30 is for modern engines, and is too thin IMHO to be of any use in a marine engine unless you are taking your boat out ice breaking. You may want to consider adding a zinc additive to the oil, since most modern oils have been stripped of zinc due to emissions concerns, and the lack of flat tappet lifters in newer engines.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

If you'd like to learn more about zinc/phosphate oil additives and older engines, here's a link to one company that sells it: http://www.zddplus.com/
Everyone has their own opinion, just throwing it out there. If you do use a zinc/phosphate additive, be sure you don't also use SM type oil as they're not compatible.

 

[74bayliner]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

Thanks guys. I will do some reading when I get home on ZDDP... just i have never heard of Zinc Dithiophosphate before and ive owned cars that were older than 1996 and they ran fine for over 5+ years... If i dont intend on Keeping this car longer than 3 years does it really make a difference?
The reason i ask is because I plan on beginning the assembly saturday and i dont think even if i ordered the stuff right now i would receive it in time for the assy.

I guess i could ask at Napa for this. Actually thats what i may do.

Will this stuff work?
elderbrock 1074 (google) my automotive parts places carries that

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

Thanks guys. I will do some reading when I get home on ZDDP... just i have never heard of Zinc Dithiophosphate before and ive owned cars that were older than 1996 and they ran fine for over 5+ years... If i dont intend on Keeping this car longer than 3 years does it really make a difference?
The reason i ask is because I plan on beginning the assembly saturday and i dont think even if i ordered the stuff right now i would receive it in time for the assy.

I guess i could ask at Napa for this. Actually thats what i may do.

Will this stuff work?
elderbrock 1074 (google) my automotive parts places carries that

Whether or not ZDDP does anything in the long run is arguable. The 170 runs just regular NAPA brand (Valvoline) oil with no additives. IMHO for breaking in new lifters and a cam, probably not a bad thing to be in the oil.

The Edelbrock stuff should be fine. I have seen other brands of ZDDP additive offered in auto parts stores, sans the high price for the top self name.

 

[74bayliner]

Re: AQ130D Engine Assembly

ok. Cool Thank you