Re: AQ131 Ignition Coil Troubles?
Mullin
1. Want to replace coil since it is original. If I replace it with a 3 ohm unit such as a hotspark do I remove the resistor which is in line connected to the alternator? I think this is the resistor they refrence in the schematics.
2. I cannot find any capacitor installed on the distributor, but I know all engines with mechanical points require it usually. I dont know the history of this engine so I dont know if it was removed. Do you know if they were located anywhere else on these engineor not at all?
I plan on installing once recieved. Once I get new ignition parts installed I plan on resetting the timing and retesting to see if that was it.
3. Do you have a reference with regards to adjustment of the accelrator pump on the Carb? The only other adjustment I see is the idle mixture screw.
1. The ignition system needs to have a certain amount of resistance. Either use an internal resistor coil by itself or an external resistor with a coil with low resistance. You can check it with a ohm meter to be sure.
2. There should be a short wire coming from the points inside the distributor that plugs directly into the capacitor. The capacitor is usually mounted on the side of the distributor with a spade connector protruding into the distributor for the connection to the points.
3. The accelerator pump is finicky and a pain to get just right. There should be three adjustments on the carb; the idle screw, mixture screw, and accelerator pump nut. To get the motor to accelerate without bogging down or chugging or even dying sometimes, this is what worked for me:
First, I adjusted the accelerator pump in my driveway on muffs, but you could do it on the water too. Get the motor up to running temp before any adjustments. The acc. pump has a threaded rod with a nut on the end. The position of the nut will make the pump squirt its gas sooner or later. Take off the flame arrestor, disconnect the throttle linkage at the carb.
Now hit the throttle (the bracket on the carb itself) while keeping an eye on the squirt of gas that will be shooting out of the 'candy cane' into the throat of the carb. The squirt should come near instantly when you hit the gas. Backing off the screw will make it engage faster and faster. There is a point where it is too far though. The motor should be able to be punched, get that squirt of gas, and it revs up with nearly no lag.
Okay, second thing to get it running real nice is to set your idle on the water in gear. Put it in forward and adjust the idle screw to the proper rpms for your engine. Too low and it will bog when you accelerate, too high and you will be going way too fast when you try to dock.
Third is to set the mixture screw. I think this step is a bit more of an art form or a juggling act. Adjust it to see if it idles any smoother, but then also hit the throttle (in neutral) to see how the adjustment affects acceleration too. You may now need to reset the idle screw as the mixture screw can bump or lower your idle rpms.
So in short, get the accel pump shooting fast, set the idle, and then adjust the mixture to get the best performance. If you get it right, you shouldn't have any more stalls when punching it and can get a faster acceleration without the chugging. My boat still chugs it a little once in a while, but she is old and cold blooded.
PS. when you have the flame arrestor off, don't look staight down at the carb. One backfire and there go you eyebrows.
