Are Four Winns know to have strong hulls? Installing a tower

[KM7]

I have read that placing the rear mount for a wakeboard tower on the gunwale is stronger than mounting it on the side. I'd like to keep the tower out of the way of the bimini top so the side might be better for me. That is, as long as the side of the hull is strong enough.
I know Four Winns are generally well made. Any thoughts on the strength of the gunwales?

I plan on reinforcing it on the inside with a metal plate.

Thanks

 

[Earl Cordova]

IME and as far as quality goes, Four Winns is in the middle of the road.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Fourwinns were not designed for the loads of towers. so you have to add reinforcing as needed.

not sure backing plates will provide enough reinforcing

just as an FYI, on my build, I added braces from the top of the gunwale down to the deck (and the top of my gunwales have 3/8" aluminum plates embedded in them from Cruisers

you can see them in my build thread in the following posts:

1988 Rogue 2420

cockpit drains used to simply run to the bilge. while it made it OK, it meant that a fair amount of leave debris would end up in the bilge. also during a few outings, we hit some torrential rains . so since the cockpit drains are about 8" above the water line, I decided to use in-line...

forums.iboats.com

1988 Rogue 2420

cockpit drains used to simply run to the bilge. while it made it OK, it meant that a fair amount of leave debris would end up in the bilge. also during a few outings, we hit some torrential rains . so since the cockpit drains are about 8" above the water line, I decided to use in-line...

forums.iboats.com

1988 Rogue 2420

cockpit drains used to simply run to the bilge. while it made it OK, it meant that a fair amount of leave debris would end up in the bilge. also during a few outings, we hit some torrential rains . so since the cockpit drains are about 8" above the water line, I decided to use in-line...

forums.iboats.com

1988 Rogue 2420

Here are some updates from yesterday Managed to get epoxy on the back sides of the side bolsters, etc. then managed to get some foam on the dash pad and start with some of the dash filler panels. hit the bubbles, drips, etc. with the DA. thinning the batch with about 5% acetone made the...

forums.iboats.com

 

[Lou C]

you might try emailing Four Winns and asking them, I did that when I had a question about replacing the foam under the deck when I replaced most of the deck 15 years ago.

 

[KM7]

I have a 1992 Four Winns Horizon 200 that seems to be in great shape. I've had it 4 years and have done a fair amount of work on her: Rebuilt carb, fuel pump, fuel hoses, shift cables upholstery, trailer brakes and actuator, The outdrive, and engine seem to be in great shape, good compression etc. I have had the OD off for maintenance multiple times. I'm considering adding a tower. (I do know that I will have to reinforce the hull at the attachment points)

My question is, how can I tell if the hull is in good enough shape to last long enough to make this upgrade worth it? Are there hidden issues that can be very hard to repair, like dry rot? How can I check for them?

I did have a 1989 Wellcraft that developed dry rot in the stringers that required reinforcement and then I eventually sold her. I don't want to discover something like that after an expensive upgrade.
Is dry rot is the biggest risk, How do I check for it? How do I prevent it?
The boat is on a trailer on my driveway and is used in lakes and the ocean.

Thank you.

 

[poconojoe]

Not sure how you would mount something like that. Hopefully the experts will chime in soon.

I don't know...I've never heard of a boat "dry rotting". Usually they rot from the inside out due to water intrusion.

 

[KM7]

@ poconojoe All the sites for towers have mounting instructions that include reinforcing the hull when necessary.

Re Dry rot, maybe I'm not using the correct term. I think it should just be called "rot". I did find a good article but would like to hear more from the members.

Everything You Need to Know About Wet Transoms - Seaworthy Inspections

“My boat has a wet transom. What does it mean?” This is a very common question we receive from our customers. In this blog we will explain what it means, how to assess & fix it and what are the problems you may face by having a rotten transom. Firstly, we need to understand what

seaworthyinspections.com.au

 

[poconojoe]

I hope the manufacturer of the tower supplies some type of backing plates. It would help, rather than having to figure out what will fit, be strong enough or have to fabricate your own.

 

[hugh g]

Boats rot from the bottom up due to water intrusion & poor building practices, especially those built in the 80's. You can drill test holes in the transom without going thru the outer skin, startng from the bottom where the hull meets the transom. If the samples come out wet, you've got a problem. You can have a solid deck & rotten stringers. The rot just hasen't progressed to the deck yet. Keep your bilge & the deck as dry as possible. If the deck is covered in carpet & you plan on keeping the boat, get rid of it. It's a sponge. If you don't have a good waterproof cover, get one. It will pay for itself. Keeping the bilge & deck dry will help to stave off any future issues.

That's a nice boat. I've yet to see a Four Winns boat that I didn't like.

 

[KM7]

@

poconojoe Yes the tower manufactures to discuss what material and size for doublers some even provide a doubler kit.​

Can you explain how I drill test holes in the transom without going thru the outer skin? Do I drill from inside the boat?
I do keep the bilge dry. I pull the plug after every outing and there is rarely any water unless I had a lot of waterskiers dripping in the boat. I will even check more now. I do have a waterproof cover. The boat does sit in the driveway with the bow a little low. I'll be sure to take her on the street and put the bow high to drain after any rain. Here is a picture. There are a couple of dings on the hull. Do I need to repair them to prevent water getting in ? I'll post pictures. I do have a carpet. I'll be sure to let it dry. If I took it out what would I put in its place? Maybe I should not cover her up right away after an outing. I usually do because of trees where she sits. I think I will let her dry out away from the trees then move her into position after a a while.

Any other thoughts?

 

[Scott Danforth]

no such thing as dry rot. there is rot that may have dried from being stored in an area where it could not continually get wet.

a 1992 four winns is an OMC boat. not the most stellar build quality back then.

only way to tell if you have moisture or not is a moisture meter.

 

[hugh g]

You don't really have to go drilling into the transom unless you suspect that the transom is bad & it takes on water. I would hesitate to do it otherwise because then you have to fill them. I use to shop vac my carpet when it got wet & also the bilge & never leave water in there when you put it up end of season. Leave the bow up with the plug out. As far as the carpet some guys gelcoat the floor & you can also put in snap in carpet. The moral of the story is to keep the bilge & the deck as dry as possible, & the ski locker. Make sure it drains.

 

[KM7]

@ Scott my understanding is that the OMC outdrives had a problem with the gearsets they first tried changing the angle on the clutch dogs and then redesigned the shift cables. If you adjust the shift mechanism properly they can be fine boats. I have never heard anything bad about the hull or other aspects of the boats. But I don't know how thick the hull is.

@ Hugh g. I think you are right. I wont go drilling holes. If I do everything you mentioned and the other things I'm doing already I should be good for a long time. Are dings on the bottom of the hull where some of the gel coat is missing an issue with water? Do I need to repair them?

 

[KM7]

@ Scott Did you add a tower? If so, what make and model? Can you post pictures?

 

[jbcurt00]

Dont post multiple topics about the same subject, merged

 

[hugh g]

@ Scott my understanding is that the OMC outdrives had a problem with the gearsets they first tried changing the angle on the clutch dogs and then redesigned the shift cables. If you adjust the shift mechanism properly they can be fine boats. I have never heard anything bad about the hull or other aspects of the boats. But I don't know how thick the hull is.

@ Hugh g. I think you are right. I wont go drilling holes. If I do everything you mentioned and the other things I'm doing already I should be good for a long time. Are dings on the bottom of the hull where some of the gel coat is missing an issue with water? Do I need to repair them?

How deep are they? Post a pic.

 

[KM7]

Not that deep. Maybe I don't need to be concerned, probably just cosmetic.
It there a way to touch them up just to look better?

 

[hugh g]

You can probably fill those in with Marine Tex. That's what I used on my boat & the repair lasted for years. They're deeper then the gelcoat so I wouldn't wait. My repair was quite a bit smaller then yours so someone else here may have a different opinion.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I'd use either Marine Tex (or PC11) or gelcoat paste. Either should patch those spots, no problem.

 

[KM7]

Update: I did add the tower. I put 4 x 6 backing using 1/2 in thick plywood under each corner. I attached them with industrial adhesive. The tower is rock solid!! but can be easily folded down to go under low bridges.