Argg... Need help engine dying - misfires after repair

[Reinell-BRXL-191]

So recently, I picked up a Reinell 192 Sunchaser... took it out a few times, and it ran great... but I was getting more water in the bilge than what i would expect, the trim gauge didn't work, and after looking, I realized the bellows were all shot...

SO.. I yanked the outdrive, put new bellows, replaced the trim sender.. blah blah blah... put it all back together... and it looks great! took it to the lake today, and it run like crud now... try to do a hole shot, it dies.. try to get it up slowely it pops and misses and dies - and the big kicker, I can sit and try and re start it, but it takes minutes for it to restart, and then seems fine, until I try to move..

what could i have possibly screwed up that is causing this? did the added back pressure of the exhaust now going thru the bellow mess it up? Did I hose up the shift cable or interrupter? Someone please let me know if you have heard of this happening.. ( still water coming in the boat as well...)

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Argg... Need help engine dying - misfires after repair

Howdy,

Well, you're going to have to give up a little more info. Engine make, model etc.

If it's a dog-clutch Cobra, "pop/miss/die" after pulling the drive (assuming it ran ok before), is possibly a mal-adjusted (or defective) shift cable that could be causing the ESA to activate when you advance the throttle.

If it's not a Dog-clutch model, you could have other issues (like a plugged fuel filter or timing problem etc unrelated to what you did)

 

[Reinell-BRXL-191]

Re: Argg... Need help engine dying - misfires after repair

It's a 91 5.0 HO Cobra.. assume dog clutches...

Where is the interrupter located, and can it be bypassed to check if it is the issue?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Argg... Need help engine dying - misfires after repair

It could be a 90 or a 91. But all are Dog-clutch models if it's a 5.0

Yes the Electronic Shift Assist can be "bypassed".

You can tell if it's activating though. You just look at the shift actuator when someone shifts INTO gear and pushes the throttle forward. It shouldn't activate the ESA (or even move at all once it's in gear................although it may move a little going into gear it still shouldn't activate the ESA)

You can view a parts breakdown at http://epc.brp.com (email can be left blank, just select "Sterndrive" & find your model/year)

If the Shift actuator is moving a lot when you go into gear, then the lower shift cable and/or outdrive is taking too much force to place it in gear.

If it's the cable, it'll be from mis-adjustment, binding, corrosion, or damage from the R&R. I

If it's not the cable, then the drive is taking too much force to go into gear for any number of internal reasons (not likely though)

At this point, you NEED an OEM service manual (not Seloc or Clymer) so you can properly adjust the shift cable. And if yours is the original, it may need to be replaced.


You can usually find them on EBAY etc.....

 

[sea wolf]

Re: Argg... Need help engine dying - misfires after repair

Though unrelated to the way it's running, you should have changed the gimbal bearing when you did the bellows. No doubt it's been exposed to water if the bellows was leaking.

 

[Reinell-BRXL-191]

Re: Argg... Need help engine dying - misfires after repair

I appreciate everyone's help... I got up this morning at the crack of dawn, and went out and messed with the ESA system.. could not get it to engage.. with the cables off, I could push and pull the outdrive in to forward and reverse with one finger, its a little stiffer with the throttle... and no movement at all of the switch that activates the ESA - so, I figured maybe something in the ignition or distributor was amiss.. so after digging out my timing light, dwell meter and multi-meter, I went to work... after aboiut 20 minutes I had it narrowed down to a bad coil ( never had a coil ever go bad, not in a car, or anything else for that matter..

so.. ran to autozone, purchased a Mallory Blaster - came back and hooked it up, and the engine started right up.. it was rough, so I was scared for a minute I hadn't found the problem.. it popped and snapped a few times, and then smoothed out to a fine rumble.. after it had cleared a few fouled plugs, it runs great... so we went to the lake and I pulled the kids around on the tube all afternoon without a hitch..

And for sake of info, I want everyone to know that I had burned up 15 gallons of gas in 3 hours the day before trying to get over the problem with the mis-fires.. today, I drove around for 3 hours and used 5.. wow.. a tune up can really help with the gas mileage..

Thanks for all your suggestions!!!

PS.. before anyone goes snappin' off about putting an oil filled coil on a boat, the original coil was on the engine, and it was oil filled... and it lasted 21 years... epoxy my ying yang...

 

[MRS]

Re: Argg... Need help engine dying - misfires after repair

Glad you got it going best feeling in the world (boating world) any how....

 

[Kainon]

Re: Argg... Need help engine dying - misfires after repair

I appreciate everyone's help... I got up this morning at the crack of dawn, and went out and messed with the ESA system.. could not get it to engage.. with the cables off, I could push and pull the outdrive in to forward and reverse with one finger, its a little stiffer with the throttle... and no movement at all of the switch that activates the ESA - so, I figured maybe something in the ignition or distributor was amiss.. so after digging out my timing light, dwell meter and multi-meter, I went to work... after aboiut 20 minutes I had it narrowed down to a bad coil ( never had a coil ever go bad, not in a car, or anything else for that matter..

so.. ran to autozone, purchased a Mallory Blaster - came back and hooked it up, and the engine started right up.. it was rough, so I was scared for a minute I hadn't found the problem.. it popped and snapped a few times, and then smoothed out to a fine rumble.. after it had cleared a few fouled plugs, it runs great... so we went to the lake and I pulled the kids around on the tube all afternoon without a hitch..

And for sake of info, I want everyone to know that I had burned up 15 gallons of gas in 3 hours the day before trying to get over the problem with the mis-fires.. today, I drove around for 3 hours and used 5.. wow.. a tune up can really help with the gas mileage..

Thanks for all your suggestions!!!

PS.. before anyone goes snappin' off about putting an oil filled coil on a boat, the original coil was on the engine, and it was oil filled... and it lasted 21 years... epoxy my ying yang...

The

To move the arm via the shift cable for the ESA to work the engine needs to be running and outdrive in a body of water larger than a barrel of water it needs the resistatance or strain on the cable for it to operate and It should only operate the switch when coming OUT of Gear going to Neutral. with the boat out of water you'll just need to move the arm by itself to test and only for 1-2 seconds, but should be able to hold it longer and the engine should continue to stumble. It isnt a bad idea to take the arm off and clean it up and apply some light lube to the shaft and components also if its too loose it may not operate correctly.