Awakening a 1986 Envinrude 140

[SparkieBoat]

should be fine, I just use the muffs, but a tub of water would work. I would remove all of the spark plugs and squirt 2 stroke oil into each cylinder then I would squirt 2 stroke oil in the opened carbs, be generous too much oil will not hurt anything. then spin it over with the plugs out. then after most of the oil is through, do a compression and spark test. remove your carbs and clean out the bowls, main jets and needle valves. then test your fuel pump by turning the motor over and you should have fuel coming out of the pump in fairly strong spurts, pull your kill switch so you get no spark while checking the fuel. make sure you prime it with your bulb. fresh oil in the gearcase

 

[Acipenser]

Well good news and bad news.....

I put everything back together today and tried cranking her up for the first time in who knows how long. She fired right up!!!!. But I was not getting anything out of the tell tale, so I shut her down quickly. I saw a couple of drips come out of the tell tale so I started her up again, and again nothing out of the tell tale. Let her run for maybe 15 sec and shut her down.

I am running it using earmuffs instead of a tub of water because the tub would not get high enough to submerge the water pump. I can blow into the tell tale and there does not seem to be anything blocking it.

Any suggestions?

 

[Fed]

I'd fit a genuine OMC water pump, don't forget the key only goes one way.
Adjust the shift rod height to specification while you're there.
Adjust the shift cable by the book.
(Edit) Don't forget you need to turn the prop when selecting a gear.
Don't forget to run on premix.
Is your manual a genuine OMC one?

 

[boobie]

Some times it takes a little longer on these 140's for the tell tale to pee.

 

[Acipenser]

I'd fit a genuine OMC water pump, don't forget the key only goes one way.
Adjust the shift rod height to specification while you're there.
Adjust the shift cable by the book.
(Edit) Don't forget you need to turn the prop when selecting a gear.
Don't forget to run on premix.
Is your manual a genuine OMC one?

I just installed the Sierra one, and I am pretty sure that the key is installed correctly.
I would like to clear up the water pumping issues before getting to the shifting issues.
I am running premix and have the OMC manual.

 

[Acipenser]

Some times it takes a little longer on these 140's for the tell tale to pee.

How long is a little longer?
I am worried about burning up the engine if the water pump is not working correctly. How long can I run it before possibly damaging it?

 

[racerone]

You must rotate the propshaft for proper shifting if the motor is not running !!----Did you install the impeller on the shaft first and did you verify that the key was driving the impeller.

 

[Acipenser]

You must rotate the propshaft for proper shifting if the motor is not running !!----Did you install the impeller on the shaft first and did you verify that the key was driving the impeller.

Great regarding the prop and proper shifting. Did not know that.
Not sure what you mean by installing the impeller on the shaft first. I did install the impeller on the drive shaft and did verify that the key was locking on to the impeller.

 

[jakedaawg]

When you installed a, new pump, you put the impellar on then while you are rotating the vertical shaft in a clock wise manner you slide the housing down over the impeller. This ensures tthat the veins of the pump are oriented correctly.

Then when installing lower you need to make sure that the water tube slides into the housing.

Running on muffs does not test the water pump. If you cant get a bucket big enough take it to the ramp.

 

[Acipenser]

When you installed a, new pump, you put the impellar on then while you are rotating the vertical shaft in a clock wise manner you slide the housing down over the impeller. This ensures tthat the veins of the pump are oriented correctly.

Then when installing lower you need to make sure that the water tube slides into the housing.

Running on muffs does not test the water pump. If you cant get a bucket big enough take it to the ramp.

Did all mentioned above when installing the water pump and attaching the lower unit. I will try a different tub to see if I can get the water pump submerged. Just don't have the time right now to take it to the ramp to test.

How long can I run the engine without seeing water from the tell tale before worrying about overheating? Since the engine has not been run in years I am worried that the overheat alarm might not work either, so I don't want to run too long.

 

[Acipenser]

This weekend I took the lower unit back off, removed the water pump, and re-installed everything. Still no water from tell tale using either the muffs or tank. I removed the thermostats to see their condition and to see if any water was getting to them. Both had nearly completely disintegrated, and both were dry. (Ordered two new thermostats).

So my next step is to see if the water pump is not working or if there is a clog somewhere in the lower part of the system, Bosunmate suggested using a hose connected to the water inlet pipe.

just hook a hose up at low pressure on to the water inlet in to the Powerhead then you can run the motor as long as you want with the LU off to check its not misfiring when warm etc.

However, I am worried about possibly forcing whatever is blocking the flow further into the engine, and then having to take the head apart to remove it. Any other suggestions on how to approach this?

 

[sutor623]

Have you tried disconnecting the water hose that runs to the tell tale? Clean out the tell tale as you can almost guarantee mud dobbers have plugged it up. I see that you are worried about frying the motor for not seeing a telltale stream after 15 seconds, but most of the time the thermostats dont even open up for a minute or two. You are fine to run the motor for a minute or so to see if you get a stream. As far as connecting a garden hose to the water input, I see no problem with that. Chances are that whatever it is will break down with water going to it anyways. I think some guys use a solution to help clean out the water jacket. IMO run the water to her, start her up and see what happens.

 

[Acipenser]

Well last weekend I pulled the lower unit and connected a hose to the water tube. I was able to get flow to the thermostat ports and out the tell tale. So this weekend I took about the water pump and removed the o-ring supplied in the kit that goes below the impeller. Put it all back together and reattached the lower unit. Cranked it up and I now get water from the tell tale. It is not a lot or force full, but I get some. Next test for the coolant system will be at the ramp, but I did not think Father's Day weekend was the best time for that.

Next Issue: Alarm Buzzer
I do not get any beep when I turn the key, so I am worried that my buzzer is not functioning or there are some wiring issues. I took apart the remote control, and used a volt meter to see if the buzzer was getting voltage. My buzzer does not have a ground wire to it at all. It has the numbering OA T 20 on it. It has 2 purple wires going to one terminal, and one tan wire going to the other terminal. There is a spot on the back that might have had a ground wire (silverish hole) but there is nothing in it that I could see. When I use the voltmeter to connect the purple wires to ground I get 12V, and when I connect the tan wires to ground get 12V. But no alarm sounds. How else can I test the buzzer to make sure it is not functional. A new OEM one is $90.

I also removed the oil tank from the boat since it is not needed (VRO removed). The tank was wired back to the engine, but I am not sure where it connected. One lead goes to the negative cable of the battery, but the other lead had come disconnected at some point. It has a but connector attached, but nothing attached to the other end. I think that it is supposed to go to a tan wire that was cut also. From the wiring diagram on maxrules, that looks like where it should connect. Just want to make sure.

 

[SparkieBoat]

you the tan wire would be the ground, if it grounds out the alarm should buzz. you can test it by turning your keyswitch to the on position, then go to your heat sensor near the top of your head, follow the tan wire from there to a rubber covered connection, pull the rubber back and touch it to a ground, usually the closet bolt head will do, the alarm should buzz. the purple wires should have 12V with the key switch in the on position, the tan wire should not have 12v. at anytime. so maybe your buzzer is bad. your tan wire should go all the way to that temp sensor in your head. It should look something like this.

 

[Acipenser]

If the tan wire on the buzzer is the ground, shouldn't I then get 12v going through that contact if I connect it to a ground with the volt meter. Wouldn't that complete the circuit just the same as touching the tan wire near the heat sensor to ground?

 

[Fed]

The tan wire on the buzzer is the wire that gets grounded by the sensors to make the buzzer work.
Your voltmeter will have a very high internal resistance & won't pass enough current to sound the alarm.

 

[SparkieBoat]

If the tan wire on the buzzer is the ground, shouldn't I then get 12v going through that contact if I connect it to a ground with the volt meter. Wouldn't that complete the circuit just the same as touching the tan wire near the heat sensor to ground?

no.

 

[Acipenser]

Thanks for the clarification. I will do that tonight.

 

[Acipenser]

Alarm buzzer works. Buzzer sounds when the tan wire from either temp sensor is grounded.
Does this engine/control not sound a beep when the key is initially turned? Mine does not, so I want to see if I need to fix that.

Should I remove the temp sensors and test them? Manual calls for testing in oil. Would it be ok to test in water?

I may be being overly cautious but I want to make sure that the overheat alarm system is working properly before I take this boat out for its first water excursion.

 

[SparkieBoat]

I would not bother to test the sensors. I have never seen a bad one except from visual corrosion. pull them out and oil them up with some spray oil. you should be good. I have seen many buzzers that do not beep when you turn the key on. you should be fine. so long as it buzzes when the tan wire grounds you should be good.