Axle Alignment

gvegas88

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 20, 2007
Messages
30
I rebuilt my trailer suspension last year and I have noticed that the right wheel has moved back in the hub. The blocks that the leaf is on have slid around and allowed the axle to move back. Is there a proper way to reallign the axle or should I just move it back? Wouldn't the trailer ride offset and run off the road if unalligned?
 

rockyrude

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
1,120
Re: Axle Alignment

I don't know about running off the road, but it'll definitely trash tires quick. The best I've found is to measure from both sides to a common point, say the front of the hitch. Try to be as close as possible and you'll minimize any tire "scrubbing". Double check your tounge weight afterwards in case you moved front or back of ideal.
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: Axle Alignment

My method isn't scientific but it works.

Measure from the centerline of the axle (use the spring centering stud as a reference on the axle) to the end of the frame (rear).

Do the same for both sides.

You can check it by measuring forward to a center point on the hitch coupler.
 

wncrjb

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2006
Messages
253
Re: Axle Alignment

The closest way I have found is to find the center point of where the ball sits in the coupler, and measure to each spring center pin. Move the axle till both sides measure exactly the same.
Using the ball coupler works best because that is the center where the trailer is being PULLED from.

measuring to the REAR frame will work ONLY if the frame rails are EXACTLY the same length and not bent.
It is amazing how many trailer frames can be off by 1/4 - 1/2 inch in length.

wncrjb
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: Axle Alignment

The closest way I have found is to find the center point of where the ball sits in the coupler, and measure to each spring center pin. Move the axle till both sides measure exactly the same.
Using the ball coupler works best because that is the center where the trailer is being PULLED from.

measuring to the REAR frame will work ONLY if the frame rails are EXACTLY the same length and not bent.
It is amazing how many trailer frames can be off by 1/4 - 1/2 inch in length.

wncrjb


Agreed. That's why I check by measuring to the coupler, as stated. It's easier to make a mark on the center of the coupler rather than eyeballing the ball socket.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Axle Alignment

The center bolt in the stack of spring leafs should sit in a hole in the spring perch. If the head of the bolt is sheared off it needs to be replaced. Otherwise there is really no way the axle can move on the spring since the perches are welded to the axle. Explain what you did to "rebuild the suspension".
 

gvegas88

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 20, 2007
Messages
30
Re: Axle Alignment

The perches are not really serving their purpose on my trailer because there are two metal plates between the axle and the spring in order to raise the fenders for bigger tires. I did have to drill a hole to accomodate for the perch in the bottom plate, however. The tread on the tires is fine, but they are only a year old. I just noticed the wheel getting tucked in the rear of the fender so I guess it happened recently. "rebuilding" the trailer last year consisted of replacing everything except the frame that the roller bunks attached to. Including: axle, leafs, tonge, coupler, carpet bunks, winch, wheels, all new hardware.

Tyler
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Axle Alignment

If the spring perches are not doing the job of locating the spring they cannot possibly maintain axle alignment. There should be nothing between the spring and the perches. If fender clearance is an issue, you need to raise the brackets, not lower the axle.
 

wncrjb

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2006
Messages
253
Re: Axle Alignment

If the spring perches are not doing the job of locating the spring they cannot possibly maintain axle alignment. There should be nothing between the spring and the perches. If fender clearance is an issue, you need to raise the brackets, not lower the axle.

or drop tire size a little bit......

wncrjb
 

Bajaowner

Cadet
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
7
Re: Axle Alignment

if the spring perch is not keeping the axle in location, then either the center bolt is sheared or bent, or the hole in the perch is horribly worn. either is a relatively easy fix. but even if the holes are wron if you square them up and TIGHTEN the u-bolts it will stay in place. like many have said the easiest way to square the axles to the trailer is to refference the ball and the center bolt head on the front axle. that is of course you are 100%sure the center bolts are good and not sheared or bent. also make sure the spring eye bushins are in good shape. then you can square the second axle if ya have one to the front axle. however toe-in and camber should also be checked on occasion. over a period of time or hitting things, some rust making things weaker all can cause the axles to be out of line and not just out of square with the trailer.
 

jeeperman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
1,513
Re: Axle Alignment

The perches are not really serving their purpose on my trailer because there are two metal plates between the axle and the spring in order to raise the fenders for bigger tires. I did have to drill a hole to accomodate for the perch in the bottom plate, however.

You drilled a hole in one plate to fit around the spring centering bolt head.
The head that should be in the axle spring perch.
The second plate just makes it worse.
You need to replicate the spring pack centering bolt head.
Lets assume the second plate (w/o the hole) is thick enough...........
Go get an allen head bolt of the proper head diameter same as the centering hole in the axles' spring perches. You want one that is only as long as the plate is thick.
Drill and tap where the centering bolt should be.
Screw the allen head bolt into the hole.
Weld the second plate to the underside of the first plate with the hole you drilled previously. Or you could drill and tap them and bolt them together with a couple of flathead allen bolts.
When your done the hole in the first plate will fit over the centerbolt head of the spring pack and the allen bolt head in the second plate will fit into the centering hole of the spring perch on the axle.

P.S. you might hane to grind the height of the allenhead bolt and or the diameter to fit good into the axle spring perch hole. In the past I have also used hexhead bolt and just grind the points of the hex off a bit to fit the hole diameter.
 

Bajaowner

Cadet
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
7
Re: Axle Alignment

you can also buy center bolts with longer heads, and also there are spacers made that extend the head of the center bolt.
 

gvegas88

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 20, 2007
Messages
30
Re: Axle Alignment

Being that I wasn't interested in revisting the great times I've had squeezed under my boat with a sore kneck, I just measured from a center point on my coupler to the outside edge of each tire until the distances were the same and tightened all the bolts really well. Thanks guys, Tyler
 

jeeperman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
1,513
Re: Axle Alignment

you can also buy center bolts with longer heads, and also there are spacers made that extend the head of the center bolt.

yea or you could use lift blocks meant for a lift or lowering kit on leaf srung vehicles. Pretty cheap on ebay too.


Tyler,
Without the centering pin/bolt head your axle will mostly get beat back when you hit that pothole.
 
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