back after a long break with questions

[hrzracr23]

hello all I havent been on here much since the end of the boating season here in ny. but im back with questions. I am moving to north carolina jacksonville to be specific about 15 minutes from topsail island and the ocean.
as far as I know my boat has never been in saltwater. I completely restored the boat last winter all new floor and stringers new steering all new interior etc. I was planning on replacing the wheelbearings on the trailer and taking it with me in the move, but one of my co workers told me if a boat that old has never been run in saltwater it wont last more than a few seasons if im lucky.


so heres the details of the boat its a 15' open bow with an 85 horse evinrude
its a 79 crestliner crusader 550 with an 79 evinrude v4

and now the questions

1.) is my co worker correct in saying an old boat thats never been in saltwater
not able to handle being introduced to salwater so late in the game if you will

2.) how hard is it to replace wheel bearings on a trailer

3.) how do you know what size/type etc of bearing to order to replace the bad one

4.) is there an appropriate size boat for the ocean i.e. no smaller than a 20' im worried my 15 footer will be too small

thank you for the help -josh

 

[DJ]

Re: back after a long break with questions

hello all I havent been on here much since the end of the boating season here in ny. but im back with questions. I am moving to north carolina jacksonville to be specific about 15 minutes from topsail island and the ocean.
as far as I know my boat has never been in saltwater. I completely restored the boat last winter all new floor and stringers new steering all new interior etc. I was planning on replacing the wheelbearings on the trailer and taking it with me in the move, but one of my co workers told me if a boat that old has never been run in saltwater it wont last more than a few seasons if im lucky.


so heres the details of the boat its a 15' open bow with an 85 horse evinrude
its a 79 crestliner crusader 550 with an 79 evinrude v4

and now the questions

1.) is my co worker correct in saying an old boat thats never been in saltwater
not able to handle being introduced to salwater so late in the game if you will

2.) how hard is it to replace wheel bearings on a trailer

3.) how do you know what size/type etc of bearing to order to replace the bad one

4.) is there an appropriate size boat for the ocean i.e. no smaller than a 20' im worried my 15 footer will be too small

thank you for the help -josh

1. Nope, not true. You just have to be more diligent in your maintenance.

2. If you've never done it before, you may want to have someone do it for you where you can watch. Tire stores will usually do them. See below for a rough outline.

3. There are usually numbers on them. You have to replace the races too.

4. Not true. Just be careful to watch: weather, where you go.


Wheel Bearings.

1. Jack up the wheel that needs to be serviced.

2. Remove the wheel.

3. remove the dust cap.

4. Remove the cotter pin that is inserted through the castle nut.

5. Remove the castle nut.

6. Pill the hub off. The front bearing will fall out.

7. Remove the rear seal on the back of the hub. The rear bearing will now fall out.

8. Remove the races by:

a. Clean out the hub thoroughly with a solvent.

b. Look inside, you will see recesses that allow just the edge of a drift, or punch, to con tact the back side of the race.

c. Tap on the races with a hammer and punch. Work each side as you tap them back and forth out of the hub. You will have to do both the inner and outer this way. They may be different sizes.

9. Reinstall new races in reverse of above. Make sure they seat, all the way.

10. Hand work new grease into the new bearings.

11. Apply a liberal amount of grease inside the hub.

12. Install the rear bearing.

13. Install the rear seal.

14. Slide the hub back on the spindle.

15. Install the front bearing (greased).

16. Tighten the castle nut to just snug.

17. Spin the hub and tighten the nut until the hub starts to slow down, tighten a little more while still spinning. This seats the bearings.

18. Back off the castle nut until the hub spins freely.

19. Turn the castle nut slightly until the cotter pin hole and castle nut slot(s) line up.

20. Reinstall a new cotter pin.

21. Reinstall grease/dust cap.

22. Reinstall wheel and torque lugs to 95 lb. ft.

 

[oops!]

Re: back after a long break with questions

gee dj....

do ya think ya could be a little more specific for the guy?




good one.
(sorry i couldnt resist)

oops

 

[thefairlaneman]

Re: back after a long break with questions

Good advice about how to replace the wheel bearings. Does he know HOW to repack the bearings? and also what kind of grease should be used?

 

[Bondo]

Re: back after a long break with questions

3. There are usually numbers on them. You have to replace the races too.

Ayuh,........ Great explanation DJ.......

The Races mentioned in the quote are the 1s that don't fall out when you pull the hub......
The halfs In the Hub have to be driven out with a Punch.......

Trailer wheel Bearings are known as Cup,+ Cone roller bearings,.......
The Cones are the pieces with the Rollers that have to be Packed with the Grease of your choice,......
And the Cups are the pieces driven into the hub for the Cones to ride on......
And,......
My personal Choice of Grease is,.........
V
V
V
V
V
V
V