Bad 3.0 motor?

[piglett]

Hello,<br />I am new to this site. Appears to be very complete and helpful.<br />I have a 92 Four Winns Freedom with the Volvo/Penta 3.0.<br />Ran it about ten minutes last summer and discovered water/oil mixture coming from carb.<br />Marina said it is most likely a cracked block. There was not any water in the bilge. Assuming it is internal.<br />I have read a few different things on the internet relative this problem. Some say head gasket; some say block and on this site exhaust bellows. Marina sounded pretty confident that head gasket problems are rare with this motor?<br />I've learned that you just don't call Jasper and get a replacement.<br />A new GM longblock is $1900 plus!<br />I am looking for anybody with experience dealing with these motors and if the marina is correct in their opinion that it is the block.<br />Thank You...

 

[novicetech]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Hello pigglet and welcome to Iboats, you should post this question in the proper place so someone will answer your question faster. This particular site is for outboard motor discussion only no repair questions. That being said what does the oil look like when you check it?

 

[piglett]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Hello,<br />Just goes to show how computer savy I am. I thought it was in the right section.<br />The oil is a milky white/tan color. Consistent with what I've seen in the past with oil/water mix.

 

[piglett]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Question:<br />probally no way to move my post to the correct section?

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Be patient, it'll get moved to the "Mercruiser, Volvo & O.M.C. or Inboard Engine Problems". Then the replies will come flooding in.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[JB]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

As Dunaruna said. . .

 

[rabidfish]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

If the boat was somewhere that gets below 32 degrees... It could be a broken block. Volvo also had a few 3.0L that had manifold problems. Be sure that the manifold is ok before you bolt it up to a new block. Better yet, replace it also.(assuming you decide to replace the block)<br /><br />$2000 is alot of money, I wouldn't be offended if you got a second opinion...

 

[Don S]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Without taking the engine apart, there is no way of knowing for sure what is leaking. If the block had water in it and froze, it may have broken the water jacket internally, the head gasket could be bad, but with it coming out of the carb after 10 minutes, it sounds like a bad crack to me. I assume you checked the oil and it was ok before you started it and took the 10 minute run.<br />Like I said, if you want to know for sure you will have to disassemble and inspect.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

was it properly winterized?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

its to easy to pressurize the coioling system and see if its a manifold/riser issue or a block/head issue. remove and plug the hose from the t-stat to the manifold, remove the seawater intake from the transom or at the seawater pump downstream of the pump and pressureize to 15 PSI. if it holds for 10-15 min the block/heads are ok. if it does not then remove the head and tappet cover and start looking for cracks. is the crancase oil milky as well? is the oil level rising?<br />but just by your description we cannot condem anything. the system must be diagnosed before tossing heads,blocks manifolds and risers at it.

 

[piglett]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Hello,<br />Thanks for the tips<br /><br />I figured as much about diagnosing it.<br />Ill get back in a few days.

 

[piglett]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Will a GM long block bolt up to the OMC set up in the boat.<br /><br />All the web sites explain the ease of replacement with the GM long block.<br /><br />Are they assuming a Mercruiser outdrive??

 

[Bondo]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Mercruiser....<br />OMC...<br />Volvo.....<br />They All use the 3.0l GM motor.......

 

[piglett]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Thanks<br />This is probally the coolest web site yet!

 

[piglett]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Ok<br />I had a few minutes to look at a few things today.<br />The motor was not winterized last year. I guess I was in the, "The motor is already shot frame of mind", I'm embarrased to say.<br />I drained the oil and it is a dark tan color. The oil also seems to smell like gas but may be my imagination.<br />Looking at the carb closer, it appears that the oil I saw last summer was coming from the PCV valve and running out under the flame arrester. I looked down into the carb and it was clean and dry.<br />I then opened the two drain cocks on the port side of the motor. The one on the manifiold shed a couple teaspoons of water and the one on the block was dry inside.<br />Last summer I began preparing to remove the motor. The water pump was removed from the front of the engine allowing a fair amount of water to drain.<br />Is there a chance that there was not enogh water left to do damage or are there other places for it to collect.<br />Also, I have not removed the manifold yet for two reasons: one of the lifting eyes is attached to it and I wanted to know if I am to the point where pulling the motor for a teardown would be smart or putting it all back together for pressure testing, etc would be the best thing.<br />Thanks

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

I would pressure test the block/head assy before teardown and scrap the old manifold and riser as a matter of course. I never ever ever reuse them unless I installed it less than a year ago and then it would be iffy when repowering. but I am playing in the salt pond where average life on saltwater cooled manifolds and risers is about 3 years.

 

[piglett]

Re: Bad 3.0 motor?

Does the motor have to be fully operational to do this?<br />Water pump is off, electrical is unhooked, rubber boot betweeen riser and exaust is slid off, etc.<br />Sorry for a repeat question but I am not familiar enough with some of these procedures to know what is actually happening.<br /><br />Thanks