Bad dose of water

[Tim Frank]

Spark test was done old school. Ouch OMC loves their spark and its awkward leaning over exposed flywheel to do it so I did get lit up a couple of times.

What exactly do you mean by "old school"?
Did you verify that the spark will jump a 7/16" gap with a purpose-built tester?
If you checked by grounding the plug on the block and looking for a spark, you didn't verify anything except that the spark would jump about a 1/32' gap in open air with the plug out of the cylinder....but it it won't run like that.

 

[F_R]

Quote "We all know it only takes a drop of water to screw these things up." OK, whatever.

 

[jakedaawg]

I think old school means he pulled the boot off while running, prolly standing in water, talked to God after getting lit up, and said " it's got spark"!

 

[Tim Frank]

You have diagnosed the problem already fuel coming out of the front of the carbs. You tilt the motor and it runs better or longer. I agree with jakedaawg float issue or jets sticking. Disregard the shift cable as it can not affect your idle. Good luck

Which post mentions this?

 

[Tim Frank]

I need to add the carbs have not been soaked. Spray carb cleaner through all the orfices I can reach by just removing the bowl. Always worked in the past.

This isn't the past.
Doing that once is always worth a shot. Once you've done it three times with no success, you aren't listening to either your motor or any of us.
It could be spark issues... or fuel.
If it was my motor I'd have taken the 5 minutes max and tested the spark properly, and if I was posting in here looking for help, I'd be answering people's questions as accurately as possible....and listening to the advice coming back.
But that's just me.....

It still sounds to me like you have a cylinder dropping out ~OR ~ there was debris in the fuel as well as water and you have obstruction in the channels in behind the welsh plugs. R&R on those little plugs is not a big deal, and I agree that in most cases you don't find anything noticeable when you do; but I always pop those and check behind them when I have the carbs off because the time and effort is so much less than having to take the carbs off if it turns out that I should have and didn't.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

I think old school means he pulled the boot off while running, prolly standing in water, talked to God after getting lit up, and said " it's got spark"!

Asshole I have a degree in auto mechanics

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

This isn't the past.
Doing that once is always worth a shot. Once you've done it three times with no success, you aren't listening to either your motor or any of us.
It could be spark issues... or fuel.
If it was my motor I'd have taken the 5 minutes max and tested the spark properly, and if I was posting in here looking for help, I'd be answering people's questions as accurately as possible....and listening to the advice coming back.
But that's just me.....

It still sounds to me like you have a cylinder dropping out ~OR ~ there was debris in the fuel as well as water and you have obstruction in the channels in behind the welsh plugs. R&R on those little plugs is not a big deal, and I agree that in most cases you don't find anything noticeable when you do; but I always pop those and check behind them when I have the carbs off because the time and effort is so much less than having to take the carbs off if it turns out that I should have and didn't.

It is not a spark issue! Spark was tested multiple times. The fact is the motor ran fine got water in the gas and now it doesn't. No other variables involved. It is fuel related SOMEHOW just can't find it and was hoping for something I was missing FUEL RELATED. Damn walk away for the holidays and come back to this crap. Course that's just me...

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

To elaborate further on the above post I've tried to keep posters updated with what I've been able to rule out myself or through a marine mechanic which hasn't come cheap. I'm getting to the point of spending more money on it than it's worth. If you want to post negative comments have at it but you're taking away the value of the forum. And if you don't think a drop of water sitting in front of a jet or air passage you sure haven't spent much time on motors. I'm starting to see how some of these guys get their ranking is by posting negative comments.

 

[flyingscott]

Ok The spitting out the front of the carbs is normal that does not mean the idle circuit is clear. I have an 86 70 hp it spits and it does not have adjustable low speed orifices. I can also say the jets are absolutely not sticking as they are only a hole. Take one of the carbs off and try this. Take the float bowl off and look up the big brass tube you are looking for the small tube inside of it. That is for all intents and purposes your low speed fuel pick up. Take carb cleaner and spray straight up the small tube cleaner should come out by the butterfly and the low speed orifice. If that happens move to the low speed orifice and shove the carb cleaner tube in there. You will need to be looking at the back side of the carb when you do this. On the top of the carb venturi by the butterfly are 3 small holes. When you spray carb cleaner in the orifice you should have cleaner coming out the 3 holes and the tube into the float at the same time. Do that to all 3 carbs another problem you may have is the cork gasket between the air box and the carbs can start to block the air flow to the orifice.

 

[flyingscott]

Don't take it personel people are giving you the best advice they can. You need to realize the carb on a 2 strk outboard has little in common with a car carb. A 2 strk carb will pass water right through to the motor. I will give you an example the early VROs have a horrendous record. A lot of the reason is a badly designed oil tank cap that let water in. Since oil floats on water the pump picked it up sent the water to the carbs and they let it into the motor resulting in burned down motors.

 

[Fed]

Its a dual lever control so throttle cable wasn't touched.

Are the levers in the control completely mechanically independent of each other?

Shifting a single lever control will put pressure on the throttle cable to ensure it's pushed fully towards idle.



I'm unfamiliar with store bought outboard dual lever controllers only individual controllers.

You'd think they would mimic a single lever or whatever was supplied originally for the motor?

 

[flyingscott]

How fast does the motor idle in gear should be 750-800 rpm in forward

 

[Tim Frank]

******* I have a degree in auto mechanics

That's great, but you also have an outboard motor that you are unable to fix and are in here asking for assistance and suggestions.
The biggest problem in offering help to people like you is that you are either unwilling or unable to park your ego for a minute and answer a few basic questions....including how you verified that you have viable spark; that one has been asked several times and not answered.

WTH does "old school " mean anyway?

At any rate, you had a couple of the real experts involved who probably would have been able to sort out your problem. and it looks like they've given up too.

Best of luck.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

That's great, but you also have an outboard motor that you are unable to fix and are in here asking for assistance and suggestions.
The biggest problem in offering help to people like you is that you are either unwilling or unable to park your ego for a minute and answer a few basic questions....including how you verified that you have viable spark; that one has been asked several times and not answered.

WTH does "old school " mean anyway?

At any rate, you had a couple of the real experts involved who probably would have been able to sort out your problem. and it looks like they've given up too.

Best of luck.

Park my ego? I didn't realize I had to explain step by step how I did the troubleshooting. It's mentioned in several places it was not the spark so it's not the spark according to me, a friend and a mobile marine mechanic to the tune of $90 to show up and $70 for the first hr so I'm out $160 to eliminate the spark. What part of that is not listening to the advice of others? I tested with timing light friend tested with modified spark plug that creates 7/16" gap and marine mechanic had some sort of inline deal and all conclusions were spark is ok. Old school is welding an extension to a non resistor plug to create said 7/16 gap. It wasn't mine or I'd post a pic but believe it or not it's as accurate as the fancy deal the mechanic had and all I've ever used. That's old school. So again I'll say it is a fuel issue and fuel issue ONLY confirmed by the mechanic who was willing to tear into the carbs for $125 ea. I do appreciate the legit answers but don't much care for a smart ass posting just to post. Frustrated with this motor enough as it is. Also confirmed by the mechanic was a weak spark would most likely not effect engine perrformance at idle which is the problem so there you go.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

How fast does the motor idle in gear should be 750-800 rpm in forward

No tach but tried it at higher speed than I would normally set the stop to just to rule that out.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

Are the levers in the control completely mechanically independent of each other?

Shifting a single lever control will put pressure on the throttle cable to ensure it's pushed fully towards idle.



I'm unfamiliar with store bought outboard dual lever controllers only individual controllers.

You'd think they would mimic a single lever or whatever was supplied originally for the motor?

Dual lever is totally independant of each other except when you increase Idle it advance spark which it is doing correctly.

 

[oldboat1]

So just dig in and rebuild the carbs -- need three rebuild kits, preferably with floats but not necessarily. Do each carb individually if inexperienced -- need a metal container for soaking. COMPLETELY disassemble, and soak all metal parts in the solvent of your choice. I use lacquer thinner. Overnight soaking is good. Take out the expansion plug up at the top as part of disassembly (drill a shallow hole, and use a screw or punch to pop the plug out). After soaking, clean every opening with tiny wire and spray carb cleaner. Air dry or use compressed air, then reassemble.

Coil testing sounds a little uncertain. Try it with fresh carbs, and go from there.

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

Yeah I've pretty much resolved myself to do that. They don't list what's in the kits in the parts section on here so I'm hoping all the plugs etc are included. What do you mean by the coil testing sounds uncertain? I've tried to be open minded about anything that may be coincidental since I've been in the carbs partially 3 times. The boat ran fine in early September and fired right up on the hose before the water hit the carbs. I know coils go bad and honestly the wires look suspect but the mechanic had his tester hooked to the wires so one would assume all was ok. He has a good reputation but he's very expensive.

 

[oldboat1]

Don't know what your guy's readings were, but sounds like he knows what he's doing. Even if a coil tests well at rest, it may not perform well when heated up -- so testing isn't completely definitive. For now, take his word for it.

But you've been concerned about the carbs, and can take control of that by just cleaning and rebuilding them (and save a lot of money by doing it yourself -- cost is in the shop labor).

 

[Boatdrinks1965]

Thanks I went to pull it up late this afternoon and could only keep it running by bumping choke primer. This is after sitting a couple of weeks so it's gotta be in those carbs. Tow her to the boat ramp tomorrow and get her home where I can work on her.