Bad Shake Down

Reel Poor · Mar 20, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Those hoses should not be "dangeling". The hose/hoses connected to the intake air vent (forward facing) should terminate in the lowest part of the bildge. There is nothing there to connect them to. They are there for air flow into the bildge. The hose with the blower should begin in the lowest part of the bildge, run up to blower, from blower it should terminate at exhaust vent(facing rearward). They should be in good shape, with no holes.

Big Larry · Mar 21, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Yes, than everything with the hoses is in good standing. I'm still waiting for the manual to arrive but I sure want to get in there now and find the overheating problem. Q: The heavy wire on the outdrive that swings around to stow the outdrive in a high Trailer position. Is that wire suppose to swing up or be completely removed when in water. Volvo 280. Q: why does the bilge collect so much water when just running the engine. Shouldn't it be bone dry if running out of the water. Thanks, Big Larry

Don S · Mar 21, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Q: The heavy wire on the outdrive that swings around to stow the outdrive in a high Trailer position. Is that wire suppose to swing up or be completely removed when in water.

I can't see it, but my guess is that it has to be removed. There isn't any room under the drive for anything like that. Take it off, like the shop told you to do.

Q: why does the bilge collect so much water when just running the engine. Shouldn't it be bone dry if running out of the water.

There are LOTS of places that could be leaking. You may have to do something us pros do when we are confronted with a leak. We get flashlights, mirrors, and anything else to help us see in all the little nooks and crannies. We also get someone to drive the boat and check everything while it being operated to see if we can find it. In many cases, we pull the engine and put the drive back on. Put the boat back in the water and look around the bottom of the Y pipe. You could also have a bad bellows that allows water to go through the engine bellhousing and out the bottom. This usually slings water into the starter and destroys it too. Short of looking, there is no other way to find a leak, of any kind. Water, fuel, oil......

Big Larry · Mar 21, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Other than some splashing in and around the vents or maybe a little rain, what other source SHOULD cause the bilge to collect water? And that wire is actually 1/4" steel shaped like a wide "U" that each end rides in selected holes drilled on side plates. In addition, there are two dowles that are rested on when all the way down. Thanks, Big Larry

Big Larry · Mar 22, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Dear Don, I was out checking the boat this afternoon. I do not think that I am taking in any water thru the engine. We clamped on the hose today. At the same time we turned on the water and started the motor. So much of the water seems to squeeze thru the clamp but assuming some was circulating we ran the motor at 3,000 rpm. The only place that I saw water discharging was thru the clamp. After about 3 minutes at 3,000 my temp was getting up there so I had my wife kick off the clamp and only a liter or so came out fast thru the pick up. I expected much more but its like nothing is getting picked up. What should I do first. The impeller was just change hours before my purchasing. I mean hours running time of course. Is there something I can remove to check flow without cutting into a line. Look forward to your reply. Thanks, Big Larry

Don S · Mar 22, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

I doubt that the water in the boat has anything what-so-ever to do with the overheat problem. My guess with your overheat is something is plugged up. IF the exhaust elbow (#1 in the earlier picture) is plugged up or getting plugged up, it will restrict the flow of water and cause your overheat problem. Along with anything else in the system. Pieces of old impellers have clogged up many a cooling system. Where, how, and when...... who knows. It happens and takes time to find the problem. Since you are not getting water flow, I would be looking at that elbow first, since you are ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE the impeller is ok. You wouldn't believe the number of impellers I have replaced that cured the overheat, even after the customer told me the impeller was fine.

Big Larry · Mar 22, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Point Taken! I will inspect the impeller Friday. The old one that came with the boat is like a rubber compound. It does not appear to be worn in any way. Bushing looks great, no visable cracking or brittle parts and the fins appear to have lost no tolerence. When I inspect the (said new) impeller, what am I looking for? Also, being a marine motor, should I put any type of graphite on bolts going into cast block, manifolds etc.,? Thanks, Big larry

Big Larry · Mar 22, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

I also forgot. The previous owner said he did change the Thermostat him self and requested a 160 but the store said it only comes in 180 & 190. Does that mean he went to an Auto part store or is that the correct temps for marine app's Thanks, Big Larry

paulrfrancisco · Mar 23, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

theremostat should be marine, as the automotive ones are the 180-190 versions... 160 degree makes more sense...Replace with a 160 or remove complete as a test to determine if you are still overheating. Also dont take anybody word as to the condition of the Impeller. 10 20 seconds without water and they smoke... thats all it takes...

llerrad · Mar 23, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

What lake closes?

Big Larry · Mar 23, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Closer Lake....

Big Larry · Mar 25, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Well, my manual got here and I'm going in Sunday. Its not a great manual though (Seloc) but money talks when it comes to that ****. I'm going to pop out the Thermostat first and see if I'm getting anything up there. If so then I'll leave it out for a bit, check the strainer and hope that's all. The Stern Drive looks like allot of work. Even though being a retired Transmission Rebuilder it looks like allot even to change the hose. Thanks for all the reply's, I'll let you know what happens.

dmarkvid2 · Mar 26, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Hey big Larry, I think its time to save the head aches, and bring her to a boat engine repair shop.I think you'll have piece of mind if you did.

FreeBeeTony · Mar 26, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

I wouldn't give up so fast........ You really haven't done much troubleshooing to give up so fsat.

Big Larry · Mar 26, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Hey Hey Hey! DON if your out there and anyone else would be great. I have been out Troubleshooting tha boat all morning. The impeller was toast. I believe it was new like the seller said but I also believe that I smoked it. I tell you what I got and then I just have a few questions that the manual is not covering. I replaced the impeller with one in a box that came with the boat. I'm sure its the old one. I pulled the cover off the strainer and verified suction. It appears to be functioning good but I thought there would be much more draw. I removed the Thermostat. and ran the motor for a moment (while feeding the impeller of course) and while loading the cylinder head, I could only get very little flow, almost just capilary. Nothing like an auto water pump puts out. I installed the thermostat housing leaving the out line to the manifold exhaust off to view flow. It did trickle out as much as the impeller was taking in but it just seems like with the waterpump, it should be flowing out. I checked all hoses in & out. Then I took off the cover to the strainer and connected a clear hose from in to out to view the flow. I set the clamp, crank the water up and hardley got anything flowing. I get good thumb suction from the inlet line to impeller but something really get lost in the flow of the lower end of the stern drive. I removed the water inlet hose from the lower unit and verified no leaks from end of hose to inlet of strainer. I placed the water clamp on the lower unit and crank the water to high but could not get anything to the outlet that goes to the hose. This clamp does loose allot and ther is a drian hole on the very bottom of the lower unit that looses most of the water. When I do plug the bottom drain I do get a little flow out to the hose outlet but not much. So finely. I cap the strainer again and ran with a clear test line from Thermostat housing to ex. manifold and hardley got ****. Even running with everything together and feeding the impeller with a hose it was barley enough to push water out the exaust vents at the fin. Most of the water comes out a vent hold up by the steering helmet. Facing the rear of the boat, that hole is at One O'Clock. Of course the engine would get to the running hot point with the insuffecient water flow. So please tell me: I am assuming that when the lower unit is in the water that the cavity fill and the impeller along with the water is suppose to pull water in and flow thru motor. Or- is that drain hole on the lower unit supposed to have a plug and am I supposed to have a better water clamp that really seals around the vents because what I got going now, is only allowing the motor to pick up little spits & trickles of water. If I were on my own, I would say my water pump is doing nothing. But I am a marine motor function retard... My only marine function is to get things going, keep really great! care of it and pull the kids around on tubes & fish. Please help me. Also, a see thru of the lower unit showing the water cavity would be a great help for my head only. Thank You, Big Larry

Big Larry · Mar 26, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Hey Hey Hey! DON if your out there and anyone else would be great. I have been out Troubleshooting tha boat all morning. The impeller was toast. I believe it was new like the seller said but I also believe that I smoked it. I tell you what I got and then I just have a few questions that the manual is not covering. I replaced the impeller with one in a box that came with the boat. I'm sure its the old one. I pulled the cover off the strainer and verified suction. It appears to be functioning good but I thought there would be much more draw. I removed the Thermostat. and ran the motor for a moment (while feeding the impeller of course) and while loading the cylinder head, I could only get very little flow, almost just capilary. Nothing like an auto water pump puts out. I installed the thermostat housing leaving the out line to the manifold exhaust off to view flow. It did trickle out as much as the impeller was taking in but it just seems like with the waterpump, it should be flowing out. I checked all hoses in & out. Then I took off the cover to the strainer and connected a clear hose from in to out to view the flow. I set the clamp, crank the water up and hardley got anything flowing. I get good thumb suction from the inlet line to impeller but something really get lost in the flow of the lower end of the stern drive. I removed the water inlet hose from the lower unit and verified no leaks from end of hose to inlet of strainer. I placed the water clamp on the lower unit and crank the water to high but could not get anything to the outlet that goes to the hose. This clamp does loose allot and ther is a drian hole on the very bottom of the lower unit that looses most of the water. When I do plug the bottom drain I do get a little flow out to the hose outlet but not much. So finely. I cap the strainer again and ran with a clear test line from Thermostat housing to ex. manifold and hardley got ****. Even running with everything together and feeding the impeller with a hose it was barley enough to push water out the exaust vents at the fin. Most of the water comes out a vent hold up by the steering helmet. Facing the rear of the boat, that hole is at One O'Clock. Of course the engine would get to the running hot point with the insuffecient water flow. So please tell me: I am assuming that when the lower unit is in the water that the cavity fill and the impeller along with the water is suppose to pull water in and flow thru motor. Or- is that drain hole on the lower unit supposed to have a plug and am I supposed to have a better water clamp that really seals around the vents because what I got going now, is only allowing the motor to pick up little spits & trickles of water. If I were on my own, I would say my water pump is doing nothing. But I am a marine motor function retard... My only marine function is to get things going, keep really great! care of it and pull the kids around on tubes & fish. Please help me. Also, a see thru of the lower unit showing the water cavity would be a great help for my head only. Thank You, Big Larry

Don S · Mar 26, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Now you see why I kept saying "CHECK the Impeller" You still need to get a new one, and a new gasket for the impeller cover. Don't want it sucking air. There is also a hose connection on the outdrive, just below where the ujoint bellows is and right beside where the shift cable goes into the drive. That connection is aluminum and has a bad habit of corroding out where the hose attaches. The problem is, you can't see it. Take the hose off and see if it's in good condition. If it's corroded off, the impeller will only suck air (not water) and quickly destroy the impeller.

Big Larry · Mar 26, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Yes, I did remove the hose and it is in great condition. I looked where I could but mostly felt in and around that cast connection that the hose attatches to and other than a lil' crud, it is in good shape. The impeller that I installed looks perfect but I am still ordering a new one. Do you think I need a waterpump. Remember, I've got as much suction as I think could be possible from those rubber vaines on the impeller. There is nothing coming from the pee hole assuming there is one under the waterpump and I am getting no brg., noise but the block can never fill up with water at the rate it is pumping. Look forward to your reply and thank you so much for your help. Thanks, Big Larry

Big Larry · Mar 28, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Hello Don! Maydae Maydae everyone!!! Almost Finished. I just need to know if I'm off track...Please... I am convinced the flow problem is restriction in the manifold and or oil cooler. It is the only area's not painfully ruled out. I located most of the old Impeller at the water inlet line at the top of the lower unit. It was hard to calculate how they got there but I believe it was the overheating reverse the flow. I did get a new Impeller but saving it until everythings cool. The spare that came with the boat still looks great. I believe the raw pump was not functioning well because of restriction from the raw pump out. The water pump (Cir) is working fine when you fill the head up so all along this has been all about that Impeller that I kept saying was new, was new, was new! The only thing that troubles me is why so much of my Exhaust ejects from the hole in the transom (right above the helmet) than the fin. What is that hole? it seems like it should just be a vent in case you plugged up the fin some how. The other thing that troubles me is the org shake down that overheated us right away. I really don't think the Impeller was melted before I took it out. I did not have my stern drive down all the way because I thought the stow rod just swung down thus keeping me an inch or two from the full down position, but it was underwater for sure. I do not plan to take off my Ex manifold or oil cooler, just the lines and then water hose and air hose. I am affraid to back flush too much in the manifold because of fear of water in the cylinders.

bandsaw48 · Mar 31, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Big Larry, Sorry if I'm way off as I was not able to read all post but the old impeller could have broken up and been pulled into the oil cooler which has a coarse screen. This allows the enigine to operate normally at low r's and overheat on the plane. Greg

Bad Shake Down

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