Bad Stator? Please read.....

[pnwboat]

Just wanted to mention to GoFastr, that if your motor is 1991'sh or newer, those motors did not use a Rectifier. They started using a Regulator/Rectifier which has a more stable DC output voltage than just a Rectifier.

 

[dan4081]

Another update....not good....
Like I posted before...I'm getting up to about 13 volts at the rectifier when I raise the RPMs.
The problem is no matter what speed the engine is running I am only getting 12.6 or so volts at the battery. With the engine off or at idle I get 12.4 volts at the battery, crank the engine and raise the RPMs and it bumps up to 12.6. In the past I used to stress because at the battery I would be getting 16+ volts at WOT....now I cant even reach 13 volts.
Battery brought back to Autozone and tested again...good. Battery terminals cleaned. Connecters at battery perfect. Ive really been taking a good look at all wires on the engine and making sure they are secure and clean.

After the output from the rectifier, where do I go to follow the charging circuit to the battery? I have a service manual cd but am not sure its helping much.
Thanks

 

[Jiggz]

Your case is the kind of chance you have to take when you use generic rectifier. Remember to take AC volt reading from the rectifier's input to make sure the stator is still working and should vary with engine rpm. If the AC input varies and reads above 14~16 volts at 2000 rpm the stator is working. The DC voltage output from the rectifier should vary as well but it should at least be at 13 volts at 2K rpm. You might want to try another rectifier if the current one's output does not vary with the RPM and does not read above 13 VDC.

Note: Always keep the rectifier output attached to the battery or load whenever the engine is running. Disconnecting it while the motor is running even for a second can permanently damage the rectifier. There is a ckt breaker (or fuse) connecting the rectifier to the battery. Make sure this is not tripped or blown.