Bad timer base? Soldering the wire damage inner sensors?

BigB9000

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One of my spark plugs (#1) Will only fire if the timer base is in a perfect spot.

would bad timer base be the problem?
 

clanton

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Re: Bad timer base?

Re: Bad timer base?

Broke wire inside insulation. Timer base is not grounded to block to complete circuit, But that depends on what engine you have.
 

BigB9000

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Re: Bad timer base?

Re: Bad timer base?

Broke wire inside insulation.

Thats exactly what it is.

Took the flywheel and stator off, and found by broken wire. I guess 30 years of it going back and forth it finally gave up.

wire is 1/2 from the sealed section of the base. Ill put a non-insulated butt splice on it, some solder, heat shring tubing, liquid electrical tape, and some of the foamy rubber electrical tape on it tomorrow. Should solve the problem
 

BigB9000

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Re: Bad timer base?

Re: Bad timer base?

ohhhh wait.....

could the heat from the soldering iron damage the sensor coil/timer base?
 

crb478

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Re: Bad timer base? Soldering the wire damage inner sensors?

Too much heat can damage it. If you use a non insulated but connector and heat just the connecter until the solder flows in it you should be all right.
 

BigB9000

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Re: Bad timer base? Soldering the wire damage inner sensors?

hmmmm......

heating just the connector will be the not so easy part, as im going to crimp it onto the wires
 

Xcusme

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Re: Bad timer base?

Re: Bad timer base?

... Ill put a non-insulated butt splice on it, some solder, heat shring tubing, liquid electrical tape, and some of the foamy rubber electrical tape on it tomorrow. Should solve the problem

Sounds a bit overkill. I think the butt splice would prove to be too bulky. The goal is to make a small, strong and electrically sound connection. Stripping both ends of the broken wire and winding them together along the axis of the wire will affect the physical connection. Follow with solder to make a sound electrical connection. The splice is finished with heat shrink tubing. The heat shrink tubing is slid down the longest wire before making the physical connection and soldering.
 

BigB9000

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Re: Bad timer base?

Re: Bad timer base?

Sounds a bit overkill. I think the butt splice would prove to be too bulky. The goal is to make a small, strong and electrically sound connection. Stripping both ends of the broken wire and winding them together along the axis of the wire will affect the physical connection. Follow with solder to make a sound electrical connection. The splice is finished with heat shrink tubing. The heat shrink tubing is slid down the longest wire before making the physical connection and soldering.

yeah I got all that.

The reason for the non-insulated splice is to cut down on side. as that hard plastic jacket is large and bulky. and wouldnt fit between the wiring clam, and the base itself.

22_18_ga_non_insulated_butt_splice.jpg


I got it finished today, engine now runs no matter where the warm up lever is.
and Im sparking on all 4 cylinders ( enigne is a 1978 115 hp )

Now I just need to figure out why the engine will just STOP at idle.
 

crb478

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Re: Bad timer base? Soldering the wire damage inner sensors?

I am glad you got it running and soldered up and just thought would pass along a method or two that a friend uses in your situation. He has a really deft touch with a soldering gun and usually he can just tin up both wires with solder and then melt the solder together with the wires running parallel for the length of the stripped insulation. Then he covers it with heat shrink. He believes it makes a stronger connection then twisting and then soldering the wires. Another trick he uses with the ininsulated butt connectors is to crimp them to the wires and then heat the connector with a cigarette lighter in the center and hold solder at the crimped ends. When the metal butt connector gets hot it will draw the solder down into the connector. Then he covers it with heat shrink. This works real well when you are away from land or AC power, and holds up well also.
 
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