banshee transom and likely stringers

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

WELL have i been tardy or what

spent last sunday on the boat grinding her some more i have the majority of the hull finished

all that is left is a little bit up front on the bow and the a wee bit on the side and transom

hopefully doing that this weekend then im ready for plywood and new construction

You all know what that means rights "im almost to the top of the project hill and ready slide down the other side".

quick question i bought a jug of acetone.

is acetone ok to use in a dollar store spray bottle. figured it would last longer and not be so wastefull.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Its a toss up, acetone evaporates so quickly that sometimes its just better to wet a rag and wipe, but a spray and wipe should work just as well...if its possible, you can keep a rag wet with acetone in a plastic container with the lid on...it will keep it from evaporating as quickly and just wring out the excess before wiping down...
Either way, don't be surprised at how much acetone you will end up going through in this project...
I know I have done more work to my tub than the average resto, but I have already gone through approximately 10-15, or more, gallons...remember, though, it is a lot hotter down here and that speeds evaporation, and I have used tons of acetone to clean lots of the usually disposable stuff like gloves, cups, brushes, etc...
It is a trade off as to throwing away application materials versus cleaning them up...what with the tons of chip brushes, cups, gloves etc...that I would have gone through by now if I hadn't cleaned them, the cost of the acetone is a wash...[pun intended]...I also got a wholesale price on the stuff when I started buying it by the fiver...

PS- as to whether or not it is OK to use in a dollar store spray bottle...I guess you'll find out because, honestly I don't know...it will probably be OK and not melt it, but if it is some strange foreign plastic, who knows...

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Spent the day grinding it away

BUT HELP i think i messed up large



that there ladies and gents is i hole yup i ground that spot and it went right thru but to my defense it was thin along that edge and right where it went thru is where peanut butter will sitting and the transom will be over the hole but i still need to fix it.

Im just not sure how being on the edge

The second pic is the spot where the paint wore off (i think ) and now that i look at it in the pic the bottom looks worse in the photo but im sure i will need to address the cracking which that area and the area right at the bottom of the transom on the outer skin are the worst. and the rust is from the steel plate that was on the transom

Also where the very bottom of the transom is right below the bilge hole the paint is wore off under neath and i can see light thru the fiberglass so i know i will have to fix that part too among other little spots that have chipped and i can see light thru them.

i was actually planning on laying a layer of chop strand across the transom skin before i put the wood in just to stiffen it up and try and tab it down onto the bottom to try and make sure it water proof because of how thin the bottom is.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Just being able to see light is not necessarily an indicator of thin fiberglass. Remember its transluscent and I've seen light through over an inch. Back in the day we used to paint dark gray gelcoat on the inside of parts of the hull and deck because customers got all excited about thin glass when light came through the vinyl liner material glued in the cabin. But in actuality the glass was a good 1/2" thick.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

yeah i was just concerned that i saw light and that was only because the paint has been wore off. and the tiny chips in other areas show me where i need to address the outside. I was really hoping to i didn't need to worry about major external repairs. The hole i created is my biggest concern at this moment.

 

[friderday]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

That hole is not such a big problem, although I know it must feel like it. My son & I were devastated when we had several of these to repair in our first rebuild. They started with small cracks & it felt so wrong to grind them out into bigger holes just to repair them. We started from inside hull first. We braced a piece of wood(a 1 x 3 I think) under the hull that we covered with wax paper (so the glass wouldn't stick or bulge thru hull). We began layering csm & 1708 in alternating layers until we had a pretty sturdy foundation. It was a raised area (slightly), but being under deck, we knew it didn't matter so much what it looked like, only that it was strong. Much later, after we flipped her over, we then had a rock solid foundation to do more intricate layering from the outer hull. As I recall, we even did a little grinding from the outside(not all the way thru) just so we could build layers from the outside. Today, only he & I know the holes were ever there. Don't sweat it...there is nothing you can't fix. This type of repair makes you feel like a plastic surgeon. Tackle this, accomplish, & sit back & admire!

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

thanks for the vote of confidence frider. I think the one thing i have going for me is the hole is right below the transom and the peanut butter should stiffen it up as well. especially if i do csm patches over it first

 

[friderday]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

absolutely!! just layer(not too many at a time due to heat from catalyst), & make sure your layers are different sizes(one overlapping another). I usually go smaller to bigger. and remember, if its under the deck, it ain't got to be too purty as my grammie used to say...just functional. the outer "patch" area will need precision/sanding/faring.

 

[Sea Stomper]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Yea, holes are easy to fill. I drilled two 1 inch drain holes in my brand new transom that I decided I didn't want. No biggy. I filled the holes with csm and resin, a PB type of mix, and kept adding to the little voids that showed up, and I think after 2 or three applications filling the 1 inch holes 1.5 inches thick, I couldn't tell the holes were ever there. Piece of cake on that deal of yours there.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

the inside is defiantly hidden the outside shouldn't i just be able to more or less fill the hole and not really have to grind it bigger. im thinking its the same with the chips that i can daylight thru. the hole on the outside is millimeters from the edge if i go at with a grinder or dremel etc. i think i will be much harder to repair.

the other place to deal with is the at the base of the transom where it meets the hull all the paint has wore off is just as simple as a gel coat repair or paint. its mostly hidden unless your scuba diving under my boat or it on the trailer lol

 

[friderday]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

yeah, banshee...I wouldn't necessary make so much "bigger"..I would just make sure it is "feathered" out on its edges & surrounding area(within reason) is roughed/cleaned up to accept some glass. Then faring & be done. With most of work from inside done first, you'll just have to finish it off from the outside. again, more cosmetic than anything. the foundation will already be there. Fix it up & post a pic so we can see how good it looks.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

There is an old standard for repairing holes in fiberglass. You should grind a kerf of 6:1 on each side when you can repair from both sides and 12:1 when you can only repair from one side. So that means if you got a 1" hole you should grind or feather from 6" out all around the hole to half the thickness of the fiberglass on both sides or, to 12" all around full thickness on one side.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Hopefully this drawing will help make things a bit more clear...

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

the hole is litterally milimeters from the edge if i do the 6:1 grinding i will be grinding up the transom and basically making a hole thru the transom as well. where the gelcoat or paint is on the outside its pretty thin much like a knife egde. i was hoping all i would have to do is layer csm on the inside and up the transom and onto the hull in gradually bigger patches to build it back up. the sort of use a spot putty for lack of better tems to build the gel coat back up on the outside. i can buff the outside lenght wise and out onto the hull so the patch would adhere better. but i really would like to avoid having to go around the edge or grinding into the transom

the little chips in the paint i have found where there is no holes i was hoping to do the same thing to those as well.

the cracks are a whole different problem for me im not 100% how to tackle them

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

WOG yes that pic does make sense to me that is the inside and is not a big deal it will be hidden. and if making the patch go up the transom and hull is an acceptable repair i can do that (that was my plan from threads and info i have been reading ) the outside is where i dont know what to do. it the fact that the hole is so close to the edge (corner) that im getting hung up on

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Basically the same as the inside, I think this will help clarify...

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

so the outside portion of your pic would be the same for the little spots of gelcoat that broke away on the outside except i dont do anything on the inside because it isnt an actual hole

we also noticed last night right below the rub rail theres a crack and that is thin as well.
would i also deal with that in the same way as the other repairs.


So if i am reading it right the peanut butter fills the hole and creates a base for the layups to sit on. instead of using csm for the whole repair. basically PB in the hole then csm in a layer or two then 1708 in two layers gradually increasing the sizes of patches.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

on a little brighter note my best friend and his dad were with me last night and we managed to get the two 3/4 in pieces of wood laminated and clamped ready to cut the transom out

we also got all three stringers laminated and cut and partially fitted to the contour of the boat. just have to do some fine tuning and sanding to make them fit right. we got alot more done than i expected they are both much better at wood work than i am. the only tricky part we are running into is making sure the three stringers are relatively the same height and having them sit nicely in the bottom of the hull. im hoping the peanut butter is forgiving if one is a we bit higher or lower.

ill post pics when i get back out to work on it again

that leads me to one more question i haven't purchased any fillers yet (didn't expect i would need any till i was done the dry fitting and adding the layers of csm to the wood). the saw dust from the sanding is pretty fine if was to get an old coffee grinder and grind up the sawdust from the dust bag would that do as filler for the peanut butter i need for the repair to the hole. i don't need all that much for just the hole. i was planning on getting fillers in the next round of supplies i need in that is likely going be a ways down the road. Gotta spread the cost over time couldn't afford to drop all the money in one shot. the wood alone yesterday was 200 which wasn't bad.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

For cracks and gouges all that's needed is to Dremel them out a bit, make sure all the loose chips etc are removed and then wash well with acetone and fill with GelCoat Paste. Matching the gelcoat color is problematic but with patience and perseverance you'll get close. A Gelcoat repair kit cost about $25 bucks or so. When done, you'll sand starting @ 220 and work up to 1,000 grit and then buff and polish.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

is the buff and polish a step to make the water slide over the area and hopefully prevent it from wearing away.

and would a gel coat repair kit be what i use for the area under the boat where the paint wore off.
i didnt post a pic of it but i know i have one ill post it when i get a little more time