Barrel test

murraygw

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 31, 2007
Messages
79
After my barrel test there was more oil in the water that I think there sould be. Would this be a major concern. Its on a '56 Johnson qd17 10hp
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Barrel test

I assume you're running a 24/1 fuel/oil mixture, or should be. That will put a oily film in the water. If no water is being taken in within the lower unit, I wouldn't be concerned about it. Perhaps the carburetor is set too rich. See the following instructions for setting the carburetor needle valves.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
 

samo_ott

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 18, 2006
Messages
5,125
Re: Barrel test

My QD19 puts a lot of oil in the water... Sigh... Thus I use fully synthetic biodegradable TC-W3 oil which helps some...

What you can do is buy a 'bilge sock' from a sailing chanderly store. I use one in my barrel. It floats on top of the water and skims up all the oil and soaks it in... When fully soaked up, dispose of properly... It's a lot better than dumping the oily water somewhere...
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Barrel test

also when testing that motor the leg has to be submerge atleast 1/2 way up to keep from burning up the impeller, it is not self priming.
 
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