Barricuda transom problem...

[fuzzeywiggler]

So as you may know I have a curved transom... My solution was to cut 2/3 of the way through so it would bend so I could glue and screw it into place. That all went smoothly but I have a new problem. I had filled the cuts with P/B... but as I went under neith I noticed it dident fill fully so I think that this will allow condensation to form and deplete my transoms life and it would be much weaker so should I...

A)Wait untell I flip it after Im done painting pour resin or smooth P/B down the cuts.

B)Try and pop them out and start again.

C)It dosent matter.

Heres a pic so you know what im talking about

and

Thanks Fuzzey

 

[TheWoodCrafter]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

I would never recommend kerfing the wood like this because of that problem. I would have layed it up with thinner pieces on a bending form.
Lets see what the experts say.

 

[fuzzeywiggler]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

I was worried about that but this is what im stuck with no?
for the next 3/4 " i could use 1/4 ply and glue and screw it onto this piece.

Do you think the kerfing weakend it to much or just not a good idea?

Would pooring resin into it be bad?

Thanks Fuzzey

 

[TheWoodCrafter]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

I would do either of the following -

Add thinner layers of ply. You now have a perfect bending form. Mix a thick batch of what ever you are using (add chopper glass or silica thickner) and laminate the 2 or 3 or 4 together. I don't like screws in an application like this. Use clamps and weights. You don't want any voids between the layers. If you don't have lots of glue squeeze out you didn't use enough.

Add another layer of kerfed ply. Lay it in kerf to kerf. Make sure the kerfs are offset. Offsetting the kerfs should add some strength back. Again no voids between layers. You need lots of squeeze out.

I would also try pouring resin into the the existing kerfs.

 

[fuzzeywiggler]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

I like the second option mostly because I have a second piece or 3/4 pt ply already cut to the hulls shape. But kerf to kerf? Is that for strength? Im not sure if I should do it that way because it would make it almost impossible to fill the kerfs then... I would forsure have the same problem that I do now...

Fuzzey

 

[TheWoodCrafter]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

If you put the second piece on the curve will it not open the kerfs, ,not close them?

 

[oops!]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

this is a really unuasual problem.

and a fun one !

1. once the transom is wrapped in glass, your only worry is condensation....no big deal....still a 15 year fix.......(guestimate)

you could open a few holes and fill with resin and wood flour out of a syringe type dealie....(thingamajig)....if you do that, you would have to know where all the spaces are.......can you fill them from the top and have it seep down?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

my suggestion, is to go kerf to kerf, this will open the kerf, when applied. but when applying, coat the existing piece with PL premium, use a trowel like applying thin set for tile, then press the new piece in place, clamp. the notched Premium will fill the kerfs. giving you a solid transom. PL premium is 100% polyurethene.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=244013

 

[fuzzeywiggler]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

Once I have painted and have it fliped back over I could pour resin down the crevaces. My only concern with that is will it be to brittle?

Yes If I put the boards kerf to kerf The new one applied would open up the kerf.

With the Pl method I think there would still be some open areas...

If anyone says other wise im going to pour resin down the kerfs.

But I havent decided on which way to place the new transom board

1.Kerf to kerf...hard to get the gaps filled but stronger

2.Kerf to back...Can fill the gaps but potentially weaker

The thing is I will be hanging max 40hp off the back so I don't think that I need max strength But I do want it to last the longest It possibly can

Fuzzey

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

why don't you cut a piece of 3/4 fitted to the curve, mount it like a shelf, on the inside of the transom, low enough you can still mount the motor. it would be a stiff back. and add strength to the transom. then glass the complete unit. sort of like this one, only on a 90* angle to the transom.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

Personally, I think if you seal it well enough your only worry is condensation, then you're in very good shape.


It would be ideal to fill all the kerfs to depth with peanut butter, but that's very hard to manage.

Given a choice from scratch, I personally would have used multiple thin layers to build up the thickness needed rather than one large piece of wood.. that way it'd be solid.

But as-is, I don't think I'd even waste the resin trying to fill those holes. Unless you're forcing the resin through with pressure it'll never fill the voids fully anyway.

So either re-do with thinner wood or seal it thoroughly and forget it is my vote

Erik

 

[fuzzeywiggler]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

I Bought the 3/4 pt ply because that is what they had is pt.
What I really wanted to do was try and solve the condensation problem. Which I can do by pouring resin all I wanted to know was if the resin would be to brittle and break.

So what Im going to do (My uncle thought of this) is get a long drill bit 1/8 or so and drill down the cracks and make sure it goes to the bottom and pour resin in. Is there any problem with the reisin being too brittle?

Thanks Fuzzey

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

No, not in that use. There might be a problem with resin getting all over the place

Also, you're going to have a hard time verifying that you didn't leave bubbles anyway. But, if it'll make you feel better....

 

[oops!]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

Once I have painted and have it fliped back over I could pour resin down the crevaces. My only concern with that is will it be to brittle?

the resin by itself is too brittle......see the hull extension thread.....

(resin by it self has no stregnth....none....)

add wood flour to the resin.....its structural, and you can still pour it/ squeeze it in

 

[fuzzeywiggler]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

No, not in that use. There might be a problem with resin getting all over the place

Also, you're going to have a hard time verifying that you didn't leave bubbles anyway. But, if it'll make you feel better....

Its true bubbles are going to be a problem to get rid of but it will probably make me feel better about it though...

the resin by itself is too brittle......see the hull extension thread.....

(resin by it self has no stregnth....none....)

add wood flour to the resin.....its structural, and you can still pour it/ squeeze it in

Oops trust me I have been following your thread it all along Great job! If I get some really fine fibers to add I could it is just hard to get in the gaps alone (that what the whole problem was in the first place ) I think adding the resin would help preserve the wood and help it last a few more years.

o and flipping a boat on a restore has to be half the fun it is necessary

Fuzzey

 

[fuzzeywiggler]

Re: Barricuda transom problem...

why don't you cut a piece of 3/4 fitted to the curve, mount it like a shelf, on the inside of the transom, low enough you can still mount the motor. it would be a stiff back. and add strength to the transom. then glass the complete unit. sort of like this one, only on a 90* angle to the transom.

Im going to be putting in a new deck next fall/winter/spring

So I could probably incorperate that into a new floor, no?

Would it be too low?

Fuzzey