barrier coat and water line

[Outback Jack]

Well I am impressed with all the talent of people here. Glad I found this place when I decided to buy my boat to see if this was for me. I bought a 1993 glasstream 180 se and had lots of fun last summer..I am HOOKED...anyhow my question I have is in reference to the water line . I have a real good idea where the water line is as my boat sat at the marina for the last 4 weeks of the season and left a nice reminder how dirty the head pond really is.

I am going to fix the blisters(was my original project before deciding to purchase the boat). Then I recieved a good scrape from hitting a hidden object under the water last day out , as the water level dropped over 10 ft last summer..a lesson learned by a beginner. It is now a hole as I had to cut back the bad fiberglass as it delaminated and was actually under a stringer. So i had to get out the cutter and check the damage out. Not as bad as it looked at first so am happy with this. Will post some pictures etc when I get at it...still winter here.

Been doing lots of reading etc and just trying to figure out the products available today before i start.

Do you do your barrier coat up to the water line or above a bit?

How do you recommend I do it so it doesn't show such a transaction from barrier coat to gelcoat?.

I plan on painting the rest of the boat but will be a project for later in the summer after i get it back on the trailer and take to a shop to spray it or next winter?

Anyhow looking for some water line recommendations so it will look its best, maybe a stripe there too ?

What type of tape do you guys recommend to use when taping off the transition from barrier to gelcoat before i get started using epoxies?


Thanks for any info and input guys.

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

I guess another question after doing lot's of reading on all the different products out there today...do i really need to go through the extent of an epoxy barrier coating, then paint?

Like I said I am fixing blisters on the boat all below the water line..none of them are wet blisters(no oozing).I built tubs and a couple boats 25 years ago and it looks more like the first shot of resin on the mold before the chop was just not wet enough..or they never worked the first layer enough with the roller and had some dry spots against the gelcoat..

My feeling about this would be just like anything holding liquid would sweat on the other side(other side being between gelcoat and fiberglass) and if there is a dry spot and a void it would cause condensation in this void if in the water for long periods of time, then causing gelcoat to swell as the sun heats it up and forms a blister.

I would appreciate it if the guys with all the knowledge on the technology and the products out there today jump in and give me your thoughts on what would work best for me. be it epoxy barrier coat or some other product.

Thanks again
Outback Jack

 

[FunInDuhSun]

Re: barrier coat and water line

I'll answer your second question first- YES you need a barrier coat, especially if you already have a blister problem. When properly applied it forms an effective waterproof coating.
To mask the line just use blue painters tape, pressed firmly along the 'wet' edge. Try to keep the line straight and pull the tape off before the barrier coat sets.

Now, as far as the waterline stain you could add a 'bootstripe', which is a dark stripe (paint or tape) that hides the stain. Most boats that are kept in slips have 'em for just that reason. The tape is nothing fancy- just regular vinyl, and can be bought in a variety of widths and colors. My old boat had a WIDE 4" bootstripe that looked a little funky but did a great job of hiding the stain. My current rig has a 2-1/2" stripe that looks better but does show some staining after awhile.

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

Thanks for the reply FunInDuhSun,

Like I said I been doing lot's of reading and was considering going with an epoxy base barrier coat from say West of Mas , then a coat of antifoul.

After I been reading I found some info on say flex in the hull type of barrier coat CM-15 which is suppose to be primer and barrier coat all in one.

I guess the biggest question I have is what do you guys recommend for products?

Are these products like cm-15 just to easy to use to do the right job?

I want to do it right the first time and I know there is lots of experience here as to what products work best.

I am not looking for the cheapest way , but the proper and best way and I guess most successful way to last awhile.

Thanks again for any info Folks

 

[FunInDuhSun]

Re: barrier coat and water line

As far as barrier coatings, I only have experience with Interlux Interprotect 2000E.
It was easy to mix, apply and, after 2 continous years in a wet slip, seems to be holding up great.
It costs about $100/gallon but is a good choice IMO.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/primers/interprotect-2000e.aspx

BTW, after the 10 mil barrier coat I applied 3 coats of ablative antifouling paint (Pettit Ultima).

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

That is what I noticed there is alot of user friendly products out there today. I will probably go with something along them lines instead of the complete epoxy barrier, because of flex. I just have to go out or make some calls and see what products are available up in my area. Then see what is available to have shipped north of the border. I actually have a shipping broker in the state beside me and just a 45 minute drive and can save alot of money. So time to buckle down and get some stuff ordered..
Thanks again for the info

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: barrier coat and water line

I would also use the IP 2000 ..

Warning !! YOU MUST use a RESPORATOR !!

No matter what coating system your using .

If using the IP 2000 Read the Instructions on the recoat times ( especially the last coat of IP to bottom paint .. if your using bottom paint that is ).

Normal masking tape should be fine.

YD.

 

[FunInDuhSun]

Re: barrier coat and water line

If using the IP 2000 Read the Instructions on the recoat times ( especially the last coat of IP to bottom paint .. if your using bottom paint that is ).

Good point YD.
When I did my 37 footer I had to wait for a good-weather window because the work was going to take a few days. As I recall, each re-coat must be done within 24 hours of the previous one or you need to lightly sand it.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: barrier coat and water line

Good point YD.
When I did my 37 footer I had to wait for a good-weather window because the work was going to take a few days. As I recall, each re-coat must be done within 24 hours of the previous one or you need to lightly sand it.

IP 2000 has a 2 week window where you can apply 2000 over 2000...without sanding. After the window you have to sand with 80G to prep

The Main window is the 5-7 hour Coat of Bottom paint after your last IP 2000...

Meaning You Have to coat the first coat of BP within that window ( 5-7 hours After your Last coat of 2000 ).

YD.

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

Mother Nature and Old Man Winter hit us again over the weekend , just letting us know they will decide when spring is here. Hopefully it will be soon. The IP product looks like the way I will go. Time to look at price and availability. I plan on spending a few days going over the boat repairing what needs be . Then I will look at applying this Product. Thanks for the replies guys and the advice on respirators. A person has to think safety first before anything.

Would interlux product be good for blister repair ?

Some products are better then others for ease of sanding and use

Thanks again

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

After doing some reading on the product sheet ip 2000e it recommends to put a coat of the IP down before doing any blister repairs, just wondering is this standard practice. I thought we did repairs to blisters first.

What is the difference between ip 2000voc

Just want to make sure I order the best of the 2

Like I said earlier I cut back the gelcoat and some of the fiberglass because of delamination before I do the repair. So from the product sheet of ip 2000e I should do my mat repair with the epiglass resin.

Then put a coat of ip 2000e on before I add the watertite epoxy putty to fix the repair smooth and fill the blisters ...then finish applying coats of IP 2000e

Where do you guys buy your product...places I have checked on line don't sell complete product line...would like to place one order if I can

Maybe the watertite epoxy is not the best filler. I am going to order the interprotect 2000e product for sure.
What do you recommend for resin to fix fiberglass then a filler...then an antifouling paint...to get me in the water this season.

thanks

OBJ

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: barrier coat and water line

Do ALL of the repair first..then apply 4-5 coats of 2000.

All you need from what I gather is poly resin for your repairs.

The difference with the 2000voc is for low voc regulated areas IE California. I would have to special order it here in MI lol..

Get the regular 2000 ( they make white and grey so you can see your coats alternatively...stick with the gray ! it covers alot better ) .

Wear that respo man .. this is some nasty stuff here..

YD.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: barrier coat and water line

Whoops.. forgot to remark on the BP..

I personaly like VC-17. Its Interlux ( I like to stick with the same products if I can ). Only problem that I can possibly see is it only comes in 3 flavors .. Red,blue and gray. They all look like copper when you put it on ..turns colors when its been in the water.

Apply with a foam roller.

YD.

PS. Dont bother looking for a gallon kit..they only sell it in quarts its water thin baby yea ! 1 Qt might do 2 coats.

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

Now just to find everything in one place would be nice , but it is not going to happen . . I figure I will pick up some resin and hardener and matt to fix my repair, then a little filler to add to the resin to make some fairing compound, a little watertite epoxy filler for the little spots and when i get tired and some interprotect 2000e. Then all the accessories, pumps, rollers etc. Time to make a new list . I will decide on the bottom paint. I am looking at keeping the boat white but was going to go with a darker blue bootstripe. I changed the light faded blue vinyl to a light gray so maybe the grey will work for antifoul.
For sure I will have a new respirator on order with some new cartridges.

Tomorrow will be order day

I will be brushing or rolling on the IP as it will be below the water line. Do you think I would need 3 gallons of the IP 2000 to do 4-5 coats?

Thanks for the input YD

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: barrier coat and water line

1/2 gal of mixed 2000 for your boat would probably coat it 1x...

So no.. 3 gal would be extream.. remember you have 2 weeks to recoat so you can order some more if you run out.

I think 2 gals should coat that small boat with extra..

Roll the 2000 on with new 3/8 nap covers every time.. so thats about 4 for your bottom..and 4 more for your shore spots..

YD.

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

Roll the 2000 on with new 3/8 nap covers every time.. so thats about 4 for your bottom..and 4 more for your shore spots..

YD.

Do you use a foam roller , if not what material ?
I am just thinking about hair falling off the roller into the paint.
What length of roller do you find works best , is 9 inch to big ?

Thanks again
OBJ
Thanks

 

[FunInDuhSun]

Re: barrier coat and water line

I'm not the pro the YD is, but I used small foam rollers to apply the bottom paint and IP2000. they both went on smoothly but the IP2000 epoxy base 'ate' the covers quickly. If I used them for too long they would leave behind little chunks of foam. I went thru about 15 covers on my 37 footer.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: barrier coat and water line

A 3/8 nap 7" roller is what I use for All boat bottoms.

9" is just too big and does not conform well to rolling out ( plus the extra wieght )..

Foam roller covers will be used when applying VC-17 .. if thats what you choose..

YD.

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

I had to go away for a couple days and it took me away from my planning...will go over everything this weekend and make sure I have everything needed on my list and put my order in....going to start to have nice weather next week...the following week project will start.

Thanks again guys for all the advice

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: barrier coat and water line

Got another question guys..Got my IP ordered...looking at the thinners etc...i need to get the y2333n for thinning to brush on the IP...before I start it says to wash the boat down with a surface prep YMA601 then to wash with water then to wash with solvent wash 202...

Does a man need to use the surface prep YMA601 or can he just get buy using the solvent wash 202 for both steps

Also i was looking at using some ht450 to mix with the epiglass to make some fairing compound. It says not to use on high speed crafts...what type of speeds they talking about , should be ok for 40 miles an hr

Using ht450 and epiglass it says to clean area with 216, again can i just revert to the 202

Thanks again guys for any info