Basic maintenance questions for '85 Johnson 2hp

JPTL

Seaman
Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Messages
51
I just picked up an '85 Johnson 2hp (I'm going with a thread that says J2RCOC is an '85).
After flushing the old gas, putting a few drops of 2 stroke oil in the cylinder, pulling the float bowl, cleaning it out (no varnish, thankfully) checking the fuel pickup, and adding new gas, I got it started, and got it to idle relatively well.
Is there a quick internet reference in which I can get basic maintenance/tuneup specifics, including mixture settings (not sure which is which...top is idle & bottom is high speed?)
Also, what gear oil to use, and how to add/how much to add...
Also, anything else that I should do/look out for with this incredibly simple little machine?
Thanks in advance!
J.P.
 

KYHunter2

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
512
Re: Basic maintenance questions for '85 Johnson 2hp

The best thing to do .

With this motor, like any other, is get a manual.

I dont have all the specs for your motor.

I would think normal outboard gear lube, would work fine.

Drain the lower unit.

Fill from bottom hole, until it comes out top .

Replace little plastic washers on fill/drain screws.

That is if its like most , I have no experience with these little motors.

A manual will tell you everything, you could want to know.

KYHunter
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: Basic maintenance questions for '85 Johnson 2hp

It's an '85. I believe it only has one oil drain/fill plug. Dump it out, and refill with outboard 80-90 gear oil (WalMart OK) using an oil squirt gun oiler with hole facing upward.
It still has the OMC Universal Magneo (no electronics). Points gap .020" Spark plug J6C gapped at .030. You are correct in your assessment of the needle valves.

There is an exploded parts view/list at http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=E
 

BF

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 8, 2003
Messages
1,489
Re: Basic maintenance questions for '85 Johnson 2hp

as someone on the other thread said, change the impeller. It's an easy job, and even if it has low hours and the impeller isn't worn out, the rubber takes a set and doesn't pump well.

My 2hp is a couple years older than yours but is low hours and still runs very well. I just had it on my canoe this last weekend. Pushes it really well.

As a tip... at least on mine, unlless I open the vent on the gas cap ALL the way open (so it can't open any more), it'll vibrate shut as I run the motor and cause fuel starvation problems. The first couple times I used it I couldn't figure out why I started having problems after an hour or so of running it... It took the vent (that I had only opened 1 turn) that long to vibrate shut. Check the plastic hose clamps on the fuel line... one of mine disentegrated over the weekend... replace with zip tie if needed.

The only other problem I've had with mine is the starter recoil spring unwound 2 years ago... wasn't hard to fix.

You might want to pull the prop off it and make sure that it's not all wound up with monofilament... tough on the prop shaft seals... Also you should pick up a couple of spare drive pins (aka "shear pins") from a dealer and keep them in your boat or tackle box with a spare spark plug. When you pull the prop off, you'll see what it is (it may drop out whey you pull the prop off, don't lose it).

By the way, you didn't say it in your first post, but you are mixing the gas with 2 cycle oil at 50:1 ... right?? You should change the gear oil now, and also at the end of the season. (so there's fresh oil over the winter). Along with drive pins, get a couple of new lower unit drain plug seals (washers) from the dealer.... treat it to a new one once in a while.

FR was right on about the drain/fill procedure. There is only 1 hole. After draining, lay it on it's side and refill, careful not to trap a whole bunch of air in it (otherwise it'll end up only 1/2 full). It's a tiny lower unit and only takes a couple oz's. Because it doesn't have a vent plug, you can't use one of those little screw in pump things... you either have to drizzle it in, or use an oil squirter like FR said.
 

JPTL

Seaman
Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Messages
51
Re: Basic maintenance questions for '85 Johnson 2hp

F R, thanks for the tips! That's what I'm looking for until I get a chance to pick up a manual.
BF said:
as someone on the other thread said, change the impeller. It's an easy job, and even if it has low hours and the impeller isn't worn out, the rubber takes a set and doesn't pump well.

My 2hp is a couple years older than yours but is low hours and still runs very well. I just had it on my canoe this last weekend. Pushes it really well.

As a tip... at least on mine, unlless I open the vent on the gas cap ALL the way open (so it can't open any more), it'll vibrate shut as I run the motor and cause fuel starvation problems. The first couple times I used it I couldn't figure out why I started having problems after an hour or so of running it... It took the vent (that I had only opened 1 turn) that long to vibrate shut. Check the plastic hose clamps on the fuel line... one of mine disentegrated over the weekend... replace with zip tie if needed.

The only other problem I've had with mine is the starter recoil spring unwound 2 years ago... wasn't hard to fix.

You might want to pull the prop off it and make sure that it's not all wound up with monofilament... tough on the prop shaft seals... Also you should pick up a couple of spare drive pins (aka "shear pins") from a dealer and keep them in your boat or tackle box with a spare spark plug. When you pull the prop off, you'll see what it is (it may drop out whey you pull the prop off, don't lose it).

By the way, you didn't say it in your first post, but you are mixing the gas with 2 cycle oil at 50:1 ... right?? You should change the gear oil now, and also at the end of the season. (so there's fresh oil over the winter). Along with drive pins, get a couple of new lower unit drain plug seals (washers) from the dealer.... treat it to a new one once in a while.

FR was right on about the drain/fill procedure. There is only 1 hole. After draining, lay it on it's side and refill, careful not to trap a whole bunch of air in it (otherwise it'll end up only 1/2 full). It's a tiny lower unit and only takes a couple oz's. Because it doesn't have a vent plug, you can't use one of those little screw in pump things... you either have to drizzle it in, or use an oil squirter like FR said.
BF, your info. is great. That's the kind of stuff that a manual won't tell you. The 'Been There Done That' stuff. I'll be changing my gear oil, keep an eye out for the vent cap vibrating closed, and pick up a spare shear pin or two.
On another note, the cover has a label that says 100:1. That seems really light to me. Since I have no idea of the engine's history, I figured that I'd risk rough idle and a possibly fouled plug by running about 24:1 instead of 100:1 for its first run out of hibernation.
What's the concensus on that ratio? Were the Belgians trying to come up with an engine that polluted less? Are people running 50:1 in these old singles w/out any problems? BTW, I'm using only Johnson 2 cycle oil. I know that not all 2 cycle oil is alike, and with such a small ratio (even at 50:1) a quality oil that stays mixed seems critical.
 

BF

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 8, 2003
Messages
1,489
Re: Basic maintenance questions for '85 Johnson 2hp

Hi again,

Glad you found it useful info.

For a year or two in the 80's OMC recommended 100:1 (and put the stickers on the motor as such)... after that short period they changed their minds and they went back to recommending 50:1 (even for motors now mis-labelled as 100:1). You should run 50:1 despite what the sticker says (maybe change it with a felt pen in case you ever loan it out). 24:1 won't kill it, but it will smoke a lot more and likely foul plugs if you run it slow. That was the suggested ratio for older OMC's (from the 50's). You don't need more than 50:1. Also, I use any TC-W3 rated 2-cycle outboard oil. Johnson isn't in the refining business, they just re-label someone else's product and raise the sticker price (but that is just IMHO). I use castrol or our local automotive chain's "in house" brand (which is about $18 a gallon.... which is cheap for up here). That it is TC-W3 rated is the most important part to me. BTW, a gallon of oil would last for years if I only used this motor, so you probably only need to buy a quart at a time.

Anyway, good luck with the motor.... when I was motoring in my canoe I was the envy of my bud's. d:)
 
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