Bass Tracker TX-17 - Removing bottom wood

nguyenjs

Cadet
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Feb 12, 2016
Messages
22
Hello Nguyenjs. Most of the sealant materials for sealing leaky boats are meant to be applied from the inside of the boat, as they don't have UV protection (so painting the hull would likely be needed then). Personally, I suggest doing this the right way and sealing from the inside of the hull, or re-bucking the rivets (or replacing works too!) and then applying sealant. It is important to do this the right way now rather than investing time and money to only find out that your boat looks fantastic with new flooring and carpet but is still leaking.

Just my 2 cents worth! Great pics for explaining your boat issue!

Frey

Thanks for the response. It is indeed a lot of work to take all the compartments out and a much longer project I anticipated. The rivets on the hull are not like the ones of seen used on the inside. It looks like steel type rivets, but and I don't have the tools to take them out or know where to get the replacements.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,929
Google G-Flex epoxy for repairing aluminum boats. I think you'll find it interesting.;)
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Nguyenjs,
The rivets are different looking, you are correct, but they operate the same way and perform the same task. You can look up 'Closed End Rivets" or blind rivets, to find out more. The rivets are made of aluminum and can be easily drilled out. I would not plan on finding them locally where you live, most large stores will not have them, I would plan to order them online, which will save you money anyway (bonus!).

They look like this:



There are many websites that talk about re-bucking rivets and replacing them on an aluminum boat, you might try youtube....there is a wealth of knowledge there and demos on how others have fixed this issue. Be selective with what you see there, not everything you will find utilizes the best methods.

Others may chime in with other recommendations, but this will get you started in the right direction....

thanks,
Frey
 

Woodonglass

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TruckDrivingFool

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Jul 30, 2007
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The low cost of the G- flex comes from the fact that you are only getting a small amount of product. Also the way they show using it is way more time/labor intensive than the method used for the Gluvit/Coat it from the inside.
 

Woodonglass

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Yup you're Correctamundo!!!! Not saying it's better OR the way to do it. Just that IF you want to go at it from the outside and do it "By the Rivet' or "By the Seam" this product will "Git er Dun!!!!" Would be nice to have 5-6 guys will wire brushes and heat guns etc... to help you with all those rivets!!!!!:eek::D;)
 

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
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Ya I took note of "the crew" working on it in the video, we'd all be done in a week like that.:)

I believe Gluvit and G-flex are penetrating epoxy that can be used the way they show it. If my figuring is correct the G-flex is roughly twice the cost of Gluvit.

Kinda :deadhorse: but just trying to clarify my point.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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Yup, I believe it is LOT's more expensive. It's supposedly has a different formulation, as stated in Post 24. I don't know if it's better or worse than the Gluvit or Coat-It products so I have no way of knowing if it's worth the money or not. Just passing on what my Googling discovered. It's for everyone to do with as they see fit. Heck, Roofing Tar might work just as well!!!!:crazy:
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
The bonding and physical properties of G Flex are much better than Gluvit and Coat it, they all work, but you pay for the better performance. G Flex was designed as a very high end specialty product, so it has many other uses, this is just one of the many things it does well.
 
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Woodonglass

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Well, there ya Go!!!! With Your vast experience and industry knowledge we now have the Inside Scoop!!! Thanks!!!!
 
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