BAT 1, BAT 2, ALL Switch

[Berdink]

I'm sorry I'm just asking this right out. I did do a Search, and I think I have it.
Short and Simple:
If I have my Battery Switch on ALL, can I switch to 1 from ALL, or from ALL to 2, and never lose power to all my stuff?
Can I switch it from or to 1, 2, or ALL and not lose power to my electronics? As long I don't switch to OFF, I'll always have power to my stuff?

 

[dingbat]

I'm sorry I'm just asking this right out. I did do a Search, and I think I have it.
Short and Simple:
If I have my Battery Switch on ALL, can I switch to 1 from ALL, or from ALL to 2, and never lose power to all my stuff?
Can I switch it from or to 1, 2, or ALL and not lose power to my electronics? As long I don't switch to OFF, I'll always have power to my stuff?

Depends on if you have a “make before break” switch

 

[Berdink]

Depends on if you have a “make before break” switch

Is there a way to know?

 

[Berdink]

I only want to switch it to 1 (Starter Battery) when I go to Start my big motor, and then leave it on 2 (Deep Cycle Battery) when trolling and running fish finder.
.
Google tells me this;
"Yes, Perko designs their standard battery selector switches with a "make before break" feature. This allows you to safely rotate the switch between the "1", "ALL", and "2" positions while the engine is running without interrupting the power circuit.However, it is critical to always stop the engine before turning the switch to the "OFF" position. Rotating it to "OFF" while the motor is operating will instantly disconnect the alternator from the battery, potentially causing a voltage spike that can severely damage your engine's electronics."

 

[Berdink]

Thanks, I guess I just wanted to be sure.
But now I guess I can just hook something up and switch the switch around and see if everything stays on.

 

[dingbat]

Thanks, I guess I just wanted to be sure.
But now I guess I can just hook something up and switch the switch around and see if everything stays on.

No way to confirm w/o a part number but your probably good to go

When you get tired of playing switch-a-roo with the battery switch, buy yourself an “add a battery” kit. Makes life a whole lot easier

 

[Jeff J]

Easier yet, remove the switch. No boat I have ever owned has had one and I have never had an issue. Recent upgrade to a 24v trolling motor was a nonissue because the boat and trolling motor have always been completely separate. Fish finders and Talon have always been on my start battery.

 

[Berdink]

No way to confirm w/o a part number but your probably good to go
...clip...

I'll just test it out at home. I don't know why I didn't think of that.
I'll hook up my fish finder and then switch between 1,2,ALL, and see if it stays on.

 

[boscoe99]

Easily tested using the ohm meter setting on your multimeter.

 

[boscoe99]

Easier yet, remove the switch. No boat I have ever owned has had one and I have never had an issue. Recent upgrade to a 24v trolling motor was a nonissue because the boat and trolling motor have always been completely separate. Fish finders and Talon have always been on my start battery.

Have you not had a boat with two or more batteries?

 

[Jeff J]

Have you not had a boat with two or more batteries?

I guess did not read what you quoted.

 

[Jeff J]

I will help you read it. Every boat I have had until recently had trolling motor battery and a start battery.
“Recent upgrade to a 24v trolling motor was a nonissue because the boat and trolling motor have always been completely separate.”
I know there are 24v batteries out there but most people put two 12v batteries in series to get 24v. If you are counting, that makes 3 batteries in my current boat.

I cannot fathom why anyone would want a 24v electrical system tied to something that could be inadvertently used to connect it a 12v boat unless they wanted to burn out the 12v systems. Neither can I fathom why anyone would want to disable their entire boat while using a 12v trolling motor. I already said my sonars and anchor are on my start battery but also I like to keep my live wells running and lights are a factor at night.

 

[boscoe99]

Not uncommon for two 12 volt batteries to be connected in series to power a 24 volt device while one of the two batteries is used to power a 12 volt device.

Not uncommon for two 12 volt batteries to be connected in parallel via a battery switch, or a Combiner/ACR/VAS/Isolator, so that both can be charged from one alternator while the motor is running.

 

[Jeff J]

Batteries should be matched if they are permanently tied together. Same age, type, size and capacity. A lead acid “start” battery should never be connected to a lead acid deep cycle trolling battery except to jump start. They tend to balance themselves to the weakest battery. I have never seen it written that it is okay to do otherwise.

I believe boscoe99 is talking mostly about bigger boats than small fishing boats. Even my fiberglass bass boat wasn’t rigged anything like he is talking about.

 

[Berdink]

My original question isn't to run my boat on ALL.
I was just asking for when I'm on BAT 1 deep cycle battery trolling around with my kicker motor with all my electronics on - mostly my plotter and fish finder.
Then, we want to move, so I switch it to BAT 2 starter battery to fire up my 90hp. (Starting my 90hp would not be good using the deep cycle battery.)
I would hope all my electronics stay on as I switch from BAT 1 to BAT 2.
.
I thought about just leaving my starter battery hooked up separately to my 90hp, and leave everything else on the deep cycle, and have no need to do anything with the SWITCH.
.
I hope to just test it soon just to see if there isn't any temporary disconnect as I switch from BAT 1 to BAT 2.
.
I'll post back my results.

 

[boscoe99]

As far as I know the one, two, both, all type of battery switches have been make before break type for many years. Decades perhaps.

You will need to find out how your system is wired. I can see a configuration where if you switch to the start battery the electronics will not be getting power.

Conventional configuration is where battery ONE is the primary. It starts the motor. Battery TWO is the secondary. It powers house loads. If the switch has an ALL or BOTH setting then if and when battery one won't start the motor then the switch can be set to ALL/Both so as to start the motor.

Once the motor is started using the ALL/Both setting then the switch can be set back to the ONE position so that it can be charged by the motor's alternator.

 

[Jeff J]

I’ve been starting my 70hp with a deep cycle for a few years. Current start battery is an Optima Blue Top. It was my trolling motor battery. It became the start battery when I installed the 24v trolling motor.

 

[Berdink]

Using a deep cycle may work, but may not be healthy over the long term as a "starter" battery.

 

[Jeff J]

I just checked the specs on the bluetop. It’s actually a dual purpose deep cycle battery. 800 CCA so plenty of the correct power to use as a starting battery.

 

[Berdink]

Perfect!