Battery Bench Testing My Accessories

[dmarkvid2]

I am in the middle of restoring a boat that was given to me, It is a 1987 20ft.Forester cutty cabin, and I want to test some accessories that are on the boat, but are now on my work bench, to see how well they work, or if I need to replace them such as the horn, blower, bilge pump etc. etc. Is it ok just to connect these to a battery in my basement? And, If it is ok, should I connect a fuse to them? Where does the fuse go? Does the fuse go: From the battery, + wire or - wire?

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Battery Bench Testing My Accessories

The devices are powered by the battery when installed in the boat so they will certainly work on the same battery in your basement. Yes, connect the device to the battery making sure the ground lead for each goes to the negative post on the battery and the positive or hot lead on the device goes to the positive terminal on the battery. It would be wise to use a fuse and fuses "always" go in the positive lead. Just remember that one size fuse does not work for all devices. Blowers, horns, and bilge pumps for example draw more current than a light bulb. Therefore, a 2 amp fuse will blow when testing the blower but it wouldn't when testing a bulb. Since there is little chance of you burning the house down during a momentary test, there is no real need to use one. Just don't leave things connected when you finish working.

 

[dmarkvid2]

Re: Battery Bench Testing My Accessories

Thank you Upin, Also, When I got my boat all the electrical wiring was all in disaray, So please tell me if I'm correct. When I go to rewire, I connect a wire directly from the (+) battery to a breaker box, and then wire each divice off of that, and then, all the (-) wires from the devices go where? Directly back to the battery?, or the circit breakers? Am I close? If that is right, What size and color wire goes "from" the battery "to" the breaker, and what size and color wire "from" the breaker panal "to" each accessory? are colors black and white like house wiring? And if I do use a circit breaker panel, there is no need to install inline fuses right? I'm very handy, but stupid, when it comes to electricty. Thanks again, Mark

 

[jollymon]

Re: Battery Bench Testing My Accessories

Mark,<br /><br />You have your testing answer, now I will give you a little insight into rewireing your boat. <br /><br />I am only going answer what you asked, and tell you what else you need to look for. This may start a long thread, on what type of wire to use (marine grade only!), what type of connectors, how to crimp the wires, crimp and solder or just crimp, Etc. Do a search on each of those areas and you will get more answers then you know what to do with!!!<br /><br />Now your answer:<br /><br />From your battery to the helm. Run a positive lead and negative lead to the helm. This needs to be fused at the battery (+ side) The + side feeds fuse block, the - side feeds a ground bar, some fuse blocks have them intergrated.<br /><br />I would alos put a battery switch need the battery, so that you can shutdown the entire electrical system<br /><br />From the fuse box to each device.<br /><br />The only exception to that is the bilge pump. That goes straight to the battery (Fused)<br /><br />If you go to www.ancorproducts.com, then click on Technical Information, then Technical Data, Then Marine Color Codes, it has a chart that tells you the color standards for wiring your boat. It makes life much eaiser for you and the next guy that works on your boat, if you follow the standards. <br /><br />there is also a wire size calculator to see what gauge wire you need to run from the batter to the helm.<br /><br />Once you digest that look into crimping and connectors. There are a couple of places to get quality materials, at a good price. (Check out Iboats itself for one!!!)<br /><br />Good Luck<br /><br />Jollymon

 

[dmarkvid2]

Re: Battery Bench Testing My Accessories

Jollymon, Thank you, great answer, and very helpful. I'm sure in the future, I'll have alot more questions.