Battery Relocation - Why Shoud I NOT Do This?

sean.deangelis

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 25, 2013
Messages
33
I haven’t been on this site much the last few years but this is the perfect place to pose this question. First off I’m on mobile so apologies in advance for the grammar and typo bloodbath.

I have a 1991 Baja Islander 208 with a 454. This is the worst riding boat I have ever been in let alone owned. Even small inland lake chop (which is exclusively my use of the boat) will rattle the fillings out of your teeth. This boat rides like absolute poop.

If I add even a single 130-ish pound human (girlfriend) to the bow seating area the ride is MARKEDLY improved. It doesn’t matter if there are 2 or 4+ people in area aft of the windshield...add a single 130+ pound person to the bow area and the ride is MUCH better. Not smooth by any means but it keeps the windshield mounts and hardware from aborting mission.

Now...this problem is not because I’m a s#!+ head boat operator who doesn’t know how to slow down. Ive added trim tabs, I can bury the outdrive trim and I’ve swapped the prop to as low a pitch as I dare (21) and still have to be mindful of over reviving. I now can now keep the boat on plane at about 22 mph and it’s a massive improvement in ride quality. It used to be closer to 28mph to stay on plane. But....Anything slower than 22mph and it starts digging a hole and won’t stay on plane.

The bow has a small triangle compartment at the point that will not accommodate even 1 battery. My boat has 2 group 31 batteries, one on each side, back in the engine bay.

So the question for the collective iBoats hive-mind: What are the reasons why I should not relocate the batteries to the starboard and port spaces under the front seats, at the forward most part of the compartments? Obviously I’d secure proper battery boxes there. I can also add vent plates to the vertical portions of the “seating area” (kick plates?) to allow the batteries to gas out so presumable fire danger is lessened, I could even add a 4 inch hose to connect the 2 spaces and a blower to displace the air before startup.

Why should I not do this?
 
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Old Ironmaker

Captain
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
3,050
When I decided to remove the 24V elec bow troller on my 19' StarCraft and the 2 @ 12V batteries, about 120, 130 lbs? I lost my nice immediate planning response time. Put the batteries back in and wouldn't you know it, problem solved. But before I went to the trouble to relocate the batteries Sean I would add ballast to the front at the same weight as your batteries and see what happens. I might just add weight if the problem is solved rather than go to the trouble of relocation of the batteries.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
...I have a 1991 Baja Islander 208 with a 454. ...

Unless you need to be doing 50 knots+, that's your problem. The 454 weighs in at almost 1,000lbs, plus the additional weight of a Bravo drive over an Alpha (another 50lbs, unless it's a B3, then it's 100lbs). Drop 1,000lbs of engine into stern end of any 20 footer and it'll be a dog below 30 knots.

My Bertram 20 weighs about the same as your Baja, and with a (700lb) 4.3L engine, still tops out at 42 knots (50 mph)...

You can move weight around, add ballast, whatever, but the fundamental problem isn't going to change. Your boat is unbalanced (much like me most of the time:D)....

Chris..........
 

mr 88

Commander
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
2,219
Besides the above replies , you may try throwing a 4 bladed prop on with the right pitch and diameter. They add lift with a bit less slip compared to a 3 blade and should allow you to slow down a bit while staying on plane.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,234
weigh your boat and compare to specs. if you are carrying water in the foam that would account for it being that arse heavy.

also, most boats ride better with weight up-front. put the beer cooler up there.

running the batteries up front is not a problem. just make sure you have a large enough cable.

for the 24 foot run, you will need to have at a minimum, 350 MCM cable. 4/0 wont cut it - too much voltage drop

or you can store tools, extra line, extra props, etc in the bow locker.
 

ahicks

Captain
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Messages
3,957
Yup, if I had already tried shifting as much ballast (anchors, and misc "stuff") forward as possible, the only reason that would slow me down with the battery forward plan would be the size of the cable required. Starting a hot big block can be a rather daunting task.....
 

hnt

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
104
As mentioned, relocating the batteries is not a problem as long as you use the proper cable size to control voltage drop. The actual cable run might be more than you think once cable routing is taken into account so plan accordingly You mentioned that you added trim tabs.....If the tabs are sized properly and you are using them properly it would seem you should be able to achieve your ride goals. I know in my case once I learned how to use the trim tabs on my 2460 Pursuit I was able to achieve a much smoother ride in head chop. It completely changed how my wife and kids thought about the boat because I was able to eliminate most of the pounding that came from heading into afternoon chop. I thought I needed a bigger boat but I really needed how to properly use the trim tabs I already had. Crank the tabs down in a head sea and at lower speeds to lower the bow to get on (and stay on) plane at a lower speed and smooth the ride. Of course, retract the tabs in following seas to keep from stuffing the bow.
 

bman440440

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
266
IMO the easiest way as well as the least expensive way is to get some bags for erosion control (sand bags)... around 6 I would think would do it and place 2 bags in each of the 3 compartments (or 4 in the front triangle compartment if they will fit and then one in each of the other compartments)... that should give you about 300 lbs of ballast... that should solve the issue and still leave some space useable in those areas as well as being the easy peasy way to do it.
 

jetboater

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 13, 2004
Messages
122
If you decide to go the “ballast” route instead of relocating the batteries, stop by a local tire shop and ask for a bucket of old wheel weights.

Around me, they give them away for the asking (bring your own bucket) and they’re very heavy for the size they take up.

Not sure whether they're made of real lead anymore given all the regulations but, if not, I assume whatever they’re made of is similar in weight to lead which weighs over 700 lbs per cubic foot (water weighs 63)

They conform to whatever space they’re poured into and make a great ballast.
 

Old Ironmaker

Captain
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
3,050
The OP said, "add a single 130+ pound person to the bow area and the ride is MUCH better. " It won't take much wieght.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,235
stop by a local tire shop and ask for a bucket of old wheel weights.

Around me, they give them away for the asking (bring your own bucket) and they’re very heavy for the size they take up.

Boy, tell me where you live so I can come there. Around me the suppliers of new wheel weights demand that the tire stores give them the old ones back or they won't sell them new ones.

I used to get a 5 gal pail for a six pack, but the last time I had to go on EBay and pay $2 a pound.

Regardless, lead is now outlawed. Current wheel weights are zinc. My supply is starting to dwindle. When I finally run out I'll have to buy store-bought bullets.

BTW zinc is still heavier than steel, but not a much as lead.
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
If you're going to put the batteries in the bow you're going to need thick battery cable. Use this calculator to find the correct size of battery cable to use, length of cable is round trip, add + and - cable length together: http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com

I’ve swapped the prop to as low a pitch as I dare (21) and still have to be mindful of over reviving. I now can now keep the boat on plane at about 22 mph and it’s a massive improvement in ride quality. It used to be closer to 28mph to stay on plane. But....Anything slower than 22mph and it starts digging a hole and won’t stay on plane.

What kind of props have you been running: 3-blade, 4-blade, aluminum, SS, brand, model? Might need to try a "stern lifting" prop.

I ran 3-blade props for years and wasn't happy with their performance, than decided to try a 4-blade Alpha4 Prop... Boat gets out of the hole QUICK, stays on plane at a lower speed and not as much bow lift as the previous props. All perfect for my application as I'm not looking for top-end performance, just want to plane quick and run on plane into chop at a decent speed (I'm usually fishing in snotty conditions).

FWIW, I have a Michigan Wheel Vortex 4-blade and hate the thing, bow points to the sky getting out of the hole, takes a lot longer to plane, bow-up attitude running on plane at slow speeds, not good running slow on plane and into chop.

Alpha4 prop lifts the stern, MW Vortex lifts the bow.
 

robert graham

Admiral
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
6,908
A couple of 50 lb. sandbags up front would work great....they won't move around and you can sit on them or put your feet on them....should work fine to help your boat plane better....
 

H20Rat

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
5,204
Maybe his wife took away his forum privileges for putting all her gold jewelry in a 5 gallon bucket in the bow of his boat :laugh:

He posted his girlfriends weight in the very first post... Yeah I knew after that he wasn't going to be seen from again!
 
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