Bayliner 1900 w/Force 125 questions

tjthorson

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
59
Hi all! I am fairly new to boating and bought my first boat last fall and have about 30 hours of captaining under my belt.<br /><br />I bought a 1985 Bayliner 1900 cuddy with a 125 Force (Chrysler....ugh....) Outboard. A few small cracks in the gel coat here and there, around mounting points for the windshield and such, but no chips or even scratches in the hull - no bottom paint and all the goodies with the trailer for $2900.<br /><br />Obviously some day I will move up to a bigger/sturdier boat, but for now this one seems to be fine (except for the things that I broke
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)<br /><br />I have some questions about the boat:<br />The floor is soft in two areas. No one else notices except me (I am 340 lbs.) I can walk on it, but it seems soft. Can I use regular wolmanized plywood to replace the floor? Or do I *have* to use a marine plywood?<br /><br />How can I tell if the transom is soft? There are no cracks in the gel coat in that area, but if I lift up and down on the bottom of the motor while it is up in the air, the whole transom seems to flex about 1/4" or so.<br /><br />Now about the motor. I know that nearly everyone hates the old force motors. SO far, this thing for 2 seasons has started every time and seems to run fine. I had some idling trouble, but again, I mixed too much oil and had to clean out the carbs and it was better. The boat does about 30 MPH, I do not have a tach to tell what RPM I am at. I am currently<br />running a 19 pitch prop which I think is too much. I just bought a 17 to try tomorrow.<br /><br />The BIG problem is what happened to me last week. We went to Wisconsin on a vacation and took the boat. I put it into the Wisconsin river and had 8 people in the boat and 2 in a tube. The boat wouldn't go over 5 mph. I dumped off a bunch of people and the boat did 10. I finally realized (newbie mistake!) that the water was 12 inches deep and I had the full lower unit in the sand the whole time. About that time I noticed that, the overheat buzzer went off. I shut it down, walked the boat across the river to the dock, loaded it up and came home. I took the lower unit off, changed the water pump and the riser water tube was PLUGGED with sand all the way. I tried to use compressed air from the ports on the back, and plugging the exhaust, but that wouldn't work. I worked out all the sand to the top of the tube with a coat hanger and flushed with water. Then I used compressed air to try and flush the rest out. I hooked up the water earmuffs and it was spitting a little, but after 2-3 minutes of idling, the buzzer went off again. I am taking it to a local lake tomorrow to try it in deep water. Is there still a blockage in the block? If I was getting SOME water spitting out the ports on back should I run it and let itself clean out? Is there something on top I can remove and check? Is there a thermostat? Thanks for any and all replies, sorry for the long winded post - I have been on my own for so long with this boat and an unsure what to do!<br /><br />------------------<br />1985 Bayliner 1900 cuddy w/125 Force
 

tjthorson

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
59
Re: Bayliner 1900 w/Force 125 questions

Well, I answered one question. I removed the plugs, cranked the motor, and kept the earmuffs on while I put a wet vac on the thermostat housing. Must have about 5 pounds of sand to put in the kids sandbox now.<br /><br />Head was cool to the touch after 7 minutes of idling. Woo-hoo!<br /><br /><br />------------------<br />1985 Bayliner 1900 cuddy w/125 Force
 

Fouled Plug

Ensign
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
935
Re: Bayliner 1900 w/Force 125 questions

I wouldn't celebrate just yet! I'd be willing to bet that the impeller is ground up pretty badly. It may run cool at idle, but not at higher RPM's. Even if it works for now, that sand treatment was not kind to it and I'd replace it just to be safe. A water pump kit is around $70, and is cheap insurance.
 

tjthorson

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
59
Re: Bayliner 1900 w/Force 125 questions

Well, actually I had already replaced the water pump yesterday and cleared out the Lower unit. It was still all sand packed in the block - which is after the water pump. Ironically enough, the water pump I pulled out to replace still looks brand new even though it was pumping pure sand. I am going to hang on to it for a spare.<br />Thanks for the reply...<br /><br />------------------<br />1985 Bayliner 1900 cuddy w/125 Force
 

page62

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
104
Re: Bayliner 1900 w/Force 125 questions

We should still be a little concerned about that flexing transom. I'm afraid the best thing to do is to drill a small hole (from the inside) through the fiberglas. Stick an ice pick (or scratch awl) in the wood. If it sinks in, you have a problem.<br /><br />Of course, you could ignore it until the engine falls off...
 

12Footer

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
8,217
Re: Bayliner 1900 w/Force 125 questions

What fouled plug and 62 said. Be usre to re-seal the test holes in the transom. Which brings me to the decking. There is the good possabilty the deck is starting to go. It's quite a job to redeck a boat sometimes.<br />Use marine-grade plywood and seal all 6 sides with epoxy,or the job will have to be redone fter 2 seasons or so.<br />There are a gajillion Crysler/Force-powered boats out there. They are fine as long as they are taken care of, and you sound like the kinda guy who is willing to do just that.<br />Be carefull about over-reving her with the skinnier prop. You might be able to pick up a used tach at a boatyard for cheap.
 

tjthorson

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
59
Re: Bayliner 1900 w/Force 125 questions

OK, I drilled out some of the fiberglass with a 1/4 bit and used an awl to push. The wood is brown - not black, and the awl really doesn't push in. The rot I have is by the hatch in the floor, there was like a 2x2 that ran across the opening to hold the hatch. The wood I can see there is soft and black. I put a 4x4 underneath it for support until the next year or two I can do the floor. So, how much is marine plywood, and what are the implications if I just use wolmanized treated plywood instead and just fiberglass rosin all sides of it?<br /><br />Its hard to describe this trnasom thing. With the motor tilted all the way in the air, I can take the lower unit and move it up and down and see the transom flex some. The gel coat just moves with it - no cracks or anything. What would I do with this anyway? Use a steel plate or something?<br /><br /> <br />The motor is running great - thanks for the help!<br /><br /><br />------------------<br />1985 Bayliner 1900 cuddy w/125 Force
 
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