Bayliner Capri, here we go again

Baylinerchuck

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I had an 86 Capri, so I know what you?re going through. I did not remove the cap on mine when I replaced the wood. I didn?t really know any better to be honest. It was difficult to get under the splash pan, but not impossible. It was a fun project, it taught me a lot.
Good luck, I?ll be following your build.
 

not enuf toys

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Feb 14, 2011
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After seeing the pictures, I'm having a severe case of garage envy :)

Yes, for sure! Definitely an interesting setup with double trusses at each pole. At 8 FOC what size are the boards at the roof?

Sorry to take the thread into a left turn, building a new garage now (literally) that is a hybrid pole/stick build.
 

74bayliner

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Aug 23, 2011
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Thanks Bayliner Chuck! I definately have the space to pull the cap. I guess my next question would be. What exactly would happen if the hull was not properly supported, people say it will flex. My question is, if you took the pain in the butt method to flex it back and put the cap on, would it still be structurally sound?

not enuf, im not quite sure it was built by a company for me. They finally finished and the final inspection is happening tomorrow.
-vlad
 

Baylinerchuck

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It?ll be structurally sound, the issue is getting the cap to fit. If the hull spreads a little, and you glass the structure into the hull, it may be impossible to pull everything back into shape so the cap fits. An ounce of prevention........ add some support in addition to your bunks on the trailer. Ensure it?s stable now before you start removing the cap. The tub gets very flimsy without it.
 

74bayliner

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Ok Thanks Baylinerchuck, I thinki understand now. So its not the issue of the flexing perse of the hull just from taking it off, its from when the floor is removed, and glassed back in, unless supported it could be glassed much wider and impossible to get back on. Thank you for that. this makes so much more sense to me, i was trying to wrap my head around it earlier. Unfortunately i have yet to drill any test holes yet, i got all components off and plan to cut out the seat bases next, hopefully my wonderful family will give me a day to tinker in the new garage to do so. :)
 

74bayliner

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Ok question. I am uploading some videos of me in the boat. I cut out a test section in the back next to the gas tank. all of the foam was completely dry. The stringers were strong and tapping around with hammer there were no sounds that were off. There is only one little spot in the front of the boat that was soft. My thinking is the previous owner put a box of batteries there and had a 2x4 support screwed into the floor (i know because i pulled it out). The previous owner didnt seal the 2x4 to the floor properly and water seeped in through the screw holes. Everything else is solid wood, there is no evidence of rot. I am at a loss of what else to test? The only other question would be how do i check the transom, The transom doesnt feel weak i dont know how to test it. I will be watching some videos and reading some more forum posts but I wonder if I lucked out?
 

JASinIL2006

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Tapping means nothing. Drilling test holes is the way to find out if you have wet wood and/or rot.
 

74bayliner

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Ok. Any preference in how i should go about it? using a speed bit? or a regular drill bit or a hole saw. Im assuming into different parts of transom, and do i go all the way through or just enough to see the wood condition? Its sucks with the photobucket thing that alot of threads dont have pictures anymore :(
 

JASinIL2006

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Regular drill bit (1/4?) is fine. 1.5? into transom and stringers will work.
 

74bayliner

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Ok. Thank you. I will be doing this today after work. I will update with progress.
 

74bayliner

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Aug 23, 2011
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drilled some test holes... the baggie shows the contents. they are a dark wood color and somewhat soft. Im guessing its rot. Unfortunately my bayliner is not the kind i can do the repair without taking the cap off. Oh well Guess we all cant get too lucky :)
 

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