Bayliner Floor Replacement

[ABNNBC]

Hello all, <br />I have been reading through posts for the last week and taking notes on replacing the floor in my 88 Bayliner Capri. I bought the boat a year and a half ago (my first boat) and unfortunately didn’t realize or look for rot until it was too late. There are soft spots in two areas, one major (almost a complete hole) behind the starboard seat and one forward by the driver’s seat. The aft most floor board is starting to separate and a noticeable seem or crack is visible. Anyway that’s the story so I think I have a general idea on what to do from reading through this forum, but would like any input on what I might be overlooking. Here’s my plan:<br />- rip up the carpet<br />- remove both of the seats (reclining box type); probably glassed in will cut with small grinder<br />- cut the floor out leaving approx 1-2 inches attached to the hull<br />- replace stringers (if rotted) using templates cut new stringers from ¾ plyw or Douglas Fir; glass completely and to the hull<br />- replace foam if saturated<br />- replace cross supports and attach to stringers using resin<br />- measure & cut floor boards using ½” pressure treated plywood<br />- coat floor with sealant – 3M 5200??<br />- cut and lay mat down on top of stringers, resin, and attach floor using galvanized screws and resin<br />- cover floor with mat resin then sand<br />- install carpet and seats<br /><br />Please advise if I’m dazed and confused on any of this <br /><br />Thanks

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

3M 5200 isn't really meant to be used as a coating. It is meant to seal through-bolted hardware, like the bolts that hold an outboard on, things like that. You can leave the lip you describe if you want, you'll just need to make sure the stringers are taller by the same thickness as the lip so the floor sits properly. If you are using carpet, there isn't a need for traction material, and it could possibly hamper the bond with the carpet glue. An alternative is the apply the traction sand, and not glue the carpet but instead use snaps so you could unsnap the carpet and go fishin', and when the better half wants to go out, you can snap in the carpet for comfort. Make sure the pressure treated is 100% dry, or you could have bonding issues. A alternative is standard or marine grade non-pressure treated ply, thoroughly coated with resin on all sides and edges. Will you be using epoxy or poly resin? Poly gets it done, epoxy gets it done better. Good luck....

 

[Realgun]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

Hey what year/type Bayliner? I have the same brand as you. Removing the Seats is easy the bottom or pedistals are a Biach. They, Bayliner, glued and then sprayed with chopped glass. Then under the first board where your stuff normally goes under the seat there is foam then the real floor. My suggesting is to remove the floor from the sides completely. You do not need presure treated wood. Use a good exterior grade of plywood at least 1/2 inch thick.( I am goinging 3/4 as I am thinking of pedistal seats.) Seal the bottoms and sides -after you have fitted them in- with epoxy. It is easier to cut the wood before you seal it Then make a paste with epoxy and the 1/4" fiberglass dust. use this to attach the wood to the sides of the boat. Then 1 coat of epoxy on the wood. Then 1 layer of glass cloth about 6oz. Make sure to go about 6 inches up the sides, then 1 more layer of epoxy. You can then glue carpet or use the truck bedliner stuff. <br /><br />This is my two cents good luck.<br /><br />I will post some pics tomorrow!

 

[Catchem]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

ABNNBC,I am doing the same as you with my 20' Tempest.I started using the grinder to cut the floor but just to much dust and when you hit the wet wood ....watch out.What I ended up doing was taking my skill saw and set the depth to 1" and cut 3 " from the sidewalls all the way around the floor,using a carbide blade.Beautiful job and was done in about 20 min.Took a 1" wood chisel to take the rest of the wood under the fiberglassed floor out.About 1 hour to do.For the stringers I used the grinder to cut thru fiberglass and then followed it with a jigsaw to cut thru plywood.Again used the wood chisel to take out rotten wood.Now I am getting ready to buy the wood,glass and resin.Will post how well things go.Good luck on yours.

 

[73psd]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

ABNNBC<br />How is your project coming along?<br /><br />realgun<br /><br />How about your pics?

 

[Realgun]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

I havent got that far as I was removing the rear floor of the boat it seems I have just more rot. So now I am removing the rear area and it is hard to do. But will get it done.....eventually.

 

[Realgun]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

OH the fllor is done the stuff is finally going in. <br />You want Pics look at the signature!

 

[12Footer]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

I put wrap over mine until next Winter...No money, time, strength, or weather condititions to continue.<br />But I've found the tool most useful in ripping out old decking ,to be a cheap electric chainsaw with no chain oil.<br />You will have to suit-up and wear dust mask and eye protection (one reason I am waiting for cooler, dryer weather). I wear the disposable Tyvek monkey suits, negating the need to deal with washing "Itchy n scratchy" out...I just throw them out <br /><br />Keep a consideration on the added weight of all materials you plan on replacing with. If you can afford it, you may want to check into using DIAB, Klegocell, or other sandwich decking material for humongous weight savings. It's expensive as heck, but so easy to werk with, rot-proof, and strong like ox. And you van be garaunteed additional MPH and hull load capacities!Here is a link to my latest project, a Bayliner Cobra 1650 Bass Trophy. This is the same hull used in the Bliner Capri of same length and vintage, but the cap and decking is different.

 

[bigbad4cyl]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

i found the respirator from home depot ,to be good ,,,,i dont wear any coveralls ,because they are to hot ,,,so i kinda itch for 1 day..............any way you will need to replace the foam you will need to replace the stringers [if you found any rot] there is rott every were you will see ,,,and you will say ive gone this far etc ,,,,,,,and you cant lay the fiberglass properly with the old foam inplace ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it realy makes scence to do it all at once ......pain in the rear but a hump you can get over ........forget trying to save the old stuff for a template ,,,,you will probobly end up ripping it out and making a cardboard template ........

 

[olmpilot]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

Realgun, the pictures of the seat base intrigue me. Are you going to glass that base to the floor and then screw the seat onto it? I'm asking because I think that is what ruined my floor that I'm replacing. I think water got under the glass because of the screws that were used to bolt the seat directly to the floor. If there is a way to avoid that, I certainly want to go there!

 

[Realgun]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

No way is a screw going in the floor the bases are ok but NOT the floor. Ok thats not true there are SS screws from floor to stringer but the are under epoxy and glass. Through floor through epoxy that was layed on to p stringer and into stringer. Bayliner used staples and they were not SS or Monel!<br /><br />I just made my paste. and glued to floor. The boxes are indeed screwed together with (2) scres per block. I used 1x2 blocks inside the bases for the corner reinforcment. Also the screw had to be two inches to three inches from the top and no less that three inches from the floor.<br /><br />The seat tops are screwed with three screws Max.<br />I was light on the screws as I know that glue and foam are extremly strong. <br /><br />I know I took them apart.

 

[Realgun]

Re: Bayliner Floor Replacement

Oh man I am so sorry I read the bases and assumed the seat bases!<br />No the pedistal bases are cut from plywood and holes were drilled to accomidate T-nuts.<br />I made epoxy paste (god I love that stuff!) and smashed the bases to the deck! I then put a rock on them to be sure they were in contact with the floor. Bsically its two pieces of wood glued togeter. The bolts I got only go through the base then a washer and then into the t-nut. They cannot reach the floor itself. That what the washer is for. they are 1/8" thick<br /><br />Some people are going to complain as the nuts are not SS. but I bent to many SS screws and know they will not hold up the the forces they need to in the use I am doing. <br /><br />I came up with this after I decided on pedistal seats rather than lounge seating. And had not put T-nuts nor used 3/4 plywood for the floor. My bad.