Let me tell you a little tale about some bedliner, 3 different kinds of stripper that didn't work, a 3200psi pressure washer, the nastiest/harshest paint stripper I've ever seen & some chemical burns
Oh and many not so pleasant hours of scrapping small 6" sq of bedliner at a time.......
Gluvit, $40
Taking about an hour to apply Gluvit, $20-500 (depending on your personal hourly pay rate)
Never having to strip truck bedliner off an SC double row riveted hull seam, PRICELESS plus
'Look ma, no chemical burns' so there's that too
- You need to prep the hull to shoot bedliner, just like you'd do for Gluvit/paint (G/P)
- Even if you go off the shelf from an auto parts discount place, the bedliner is going to be more expensive per unit then G/P
- Your much more likely to plug the ends of the ribs & the limber holes, for hull drainage towards the bilge, w/ bedliner vs G/P
- Bedliner is heavy compared to G/P
- Bedliner is typically dark (or black), which in a tinny that's already prone to getting hot in the sun, may be counterproductive vs G/P
- Bedliner is the anti-christ to remove vs G/P
- See item above & repeat ad infinitum
That's my take away from my own personal tin boat resto experience w/ bedliner...... Your results may vary
This is as it applies to the interior portions of the hull, and specifically the bottom areas across the boat from chine to chine and stem to stern across the ribs. Some, none or all of those statements could apply to other areas of a tin boat's part's and pieces, both those made of tin & made of other materials.....
And ultimately it's your boat, do as you see fit, based on your needs & wants, timeline, funding, access to 'normal' boat resto materials and other adaptable materials....
But yeah, that screen door boat guy needs to have an anvil dropped thru his treated screen door:facepalm: May have done just as much disservice to tin boats of all types as the people who started the pressure treated lumber rebuilds of tin boat................
