Bellow condition??

[Horigan]

One thing I'm not looking forward to when doing my next bellows replacement on my SX-M drive is hoping the remaining screw holding the trim position sensor comes off without breaking. On my last bellows change one of the two screws sheared off, likely due to being a dissimilar metal with the aluminum drive.

 

[bruceb58]

One thing I'm not looking forward to when doing my next bellows replacement on my SX-M drive is hoping the remaining screw holding the trim position sensor comes off without breaking. On my last bellows change one of the two screws sheared off, likely due to being a dissimilar metal with the aluminum drive.

There is plenty of area to drill and tap a new hole.

 

[Wave34]

I installed one on my Volvo. You need to remove the pivot housing. Not a big deal.

OK, that's good to ear.

 

[Wave34]

While it might be possible to replace the bellows without removing the pivot housing, removing it makes it much easier to access. When removing the pivot housing break the female allen head bolts loose BEFORE you pull the drive. The weight of the drive will help you break those suckers loose as the pivot housing tends to pivot when wrenching on them.

Thanks for the tip, I will do that.

I was curious to know, those screws seem to be stainless steel. Do they tread into aluminum or there is steel insert in the aluminum.

If aluminum, do the treads get damaged sometimes?

 

[Wave34]

What other things to do 'while I'm there'...?

I know there is a slow dripping from the steering arm area. I will replace the O-ring.

I don't thing the Volvo has a shift cable bellow, so I'm ok with that.

There is a bit of slack in the top and bottom pins at the gimbal.
I read another thread on this forum, that the bearing (bushings) requires a special tool to measure the height of installation.

Is it a complicated job to replace those bushings?
Is it bad if I ignore that slack?

 

[Lou C]

One thing I'm not looking forward to when doing my next bellows replacement on my SX-M drive is hoping the remaining screw holding the trim position sensor comes off without breaking. On my last bellows change one of the two screws sheared off, likely due to being a dissimilar metal with the aluminum drive.

When you get the hole tapped, coat the threads on the bolts with something like Evinrude gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation. I have been doing this for 20+ years in salt water and every bolt that I install this way, comes out. It's like magic! The sealer doesn't get hard and seals out water so you don't get the corrosion. Even with the boat moored in salt water for 4-6 months every year...I use it on water pump bolts, anode bolts, the 6 nuts that hold the drive on, etc. Every single outdrive bolt, gets the gasket sealer.

 

[nola mike]

When you get the hole tapped, coat the threads on the bolts with something like Evinrude gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation. I have been doing this for 20+ years in salt water and every bolt that I install this way, comes out. It's like magic! The sealer doesn't get hard and seals out water so you don't get the corrosion. Even with the boat moored in salt water for 4-6 months every year...I use it on water pump bolts, anode bolts, the 6 nuts that hold the drive on, etc. Every single outdrive bolt, gets the gasket sealer.

most of my bolts in general get this.

 

[Lou C]

I started using it on my vehicles too; water pump & thermostat housing bolts etc….

 

[Horigan]

When you get the hole tapped, coat the threads on the bolts with something like Evinrude gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation. I have been doing this for 20+ years in salt water and every bolt that I install this way, comes out. It's like magic! The sealer doesn't get hard and seals out water so you don't get the corrosion. Even with the boat moored in salt water for 4-6 months every year...I use it on water pump bolts, anode bolts, the 6 nuts that hold the drive on, etc. Every single outdrive bolt, gets the gasket sealer.

Thanks. I recall putting Triple Guard on the bolt, so hopefully it will come out easily.