Bellow replacement job

[Scott06]

2004 Merc 5.0 Alpha gen 2 (outdrive/Transom Serials OM491962/OM847410)

Going to replace my bellows this weekend, all original rubber- exhaust bellows gone, driveshaft bellows is good shape except for chaffing on side that I understand are from too long hinge pins. Have all OEM parts including shift cable and tools on hand

A couple questions-

1. I'm a very experienced home mechanic and experienced on mercruisers maintaining boats for last 35 years. How long should I expect this job to take (Freshwater boat)?
2. How long do you need to let the bellow adhesive set up before splashing the boat? I figured over night given 65-70 degree weather?
3. The boat shifts perfectly so I was thinking of not messing with shift cable but I do want to replace shift bellows- reading through the factory manual it wasn't 100% clear what to do with shift cable - you disconnect if from bellhousing and pull it through- basically completely remove it from boat? If I do that I might as well replace it? Wasn't sure if there was a way to leave it in?
4. Continuity I have a little bit of corrosion around the prop (revolution 4) and wanted to verify the continuity straps are ok - I assume I could check from the inner transom plate to the drive or lower unit to see if it is ok? Is there an ohm reading that is considered ok?

Thanks

 

[Rick Stephens]

Most of the day if you never done one before.
A few minutes for the bellows adhesive. Personally I don't follow the instructions - I apply adhesive and let it dry, then apply a light coat over top and use it to lubricate slide on of the bellows. Works better for me than straight dry adhesive.

You can leave the cable mostly in the boat if you like. And yeah, if you are pulling it out, nice to install a new one. I used Sierra last time and it has been perfect.

I would just stainless wire brush all the continuity wires that need it and call it good.

 

[Scott06]

You can leave the cable mostly in the boat if you like. And yeah, if you are pulling it out, nice to install a new one. I used Sierra last time and it has been perfect.

Yeah I figured basically all day ...

How do you leave shift cable mostly in the boat ? Take the end off at the bellhousing ? can the bellhousing slide off it? thanks

 

[Stinnett21]

Inspect both trim puck wires closely and consider replacing both. They're not that pricey. I made the mistake of not doing this when my bellows were replaced and now I'm nursing them through with liquid electrical tape

 

[Rick Stephens]

Yeah I figured basically all day ...

How do you leave shift cable mostly in the boat ? Take the end off at the bellhousing ? can the bellhousing slide off it? thanks

Disconnect and remove the end of the inner cable at the motor. Pull the bellows clamps and bell housing pins, drop the bellhousing to the floor pulling just enough of the shift cable housing to allow it to sit on the floor. Don't forget to tape a pull string to the end of the housing so you get it routed back the same way.

 

[Bondo]

2004 Merc 5.0 Alpha gen 2

Ayuh,.... Grab a can of Quicksilver Power Tune,.....

Wet the inside of the bellows, 'n you can slide the little aluminum lock ring into place, by hand,.....

 

[Scott06]

Ayuh,.... Grab a can of Quicksilver Power Tune,.....

Wet the inside of the bellows, 'n you can slide the little aluminum lock ring into place, by hand,.....

I heard you mention that many times so i have power tune in hand …

 

[Scott06]

Inspect both trim puck wires closely and consider replacing both. They're not that pricey. I made the mistake of not doing this when my bellows were replaced and now I'm nursing them through with liquid electrical tape

I did get the trim sender and limit switch. Been waiting to do this job to replace the sender, also nursing it with liquid electrical tape…

 

[nola mike]

I did get the trim sender and limit switch. Been waiting to do this job to replace the sender, also nursing it with liquid electrical tape…

After mine failed the last time I didn't try to fix. Never even bothered to hook them back up when I did the engine swap, and disconnected the gauge when I was chasing gremlins a few weeks back. My to do list is always too long to even bypass the limit switch

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ayuh,.... Grab a can of Quicksilver Power Tune,.....

Wet the inside of the bellows, 'n you can slide the little aluminum lock ring into place, by hand,.....

only thing slicker is a tube of KY jelly...

 

[achris]

2004 Merc 5.0 Alpha gen 2 (outdrive/Transom Serials OM491962/OM847410)

Going to replace my bellows this weekend, all original rubber- exhaust bellows gone, driveshaft bellows is good shape except for chaffing on side that I understand are from too long hinge pins. Have all OEM parts including shift cable and tools on hand

A couple questions-

1. I'm a very experienced home mechanic and experienced on mercruisers maintaining boats for last 35 years. How long should I expect this job to take (Freshwater boat)?

A couple or 3 hours for an experienced spanner-swinger. As a novice, double that.

1. How long do you need to let the bellow adhesive set up before splashing the boat? I figured over night given 65-70 degree weather?

Put the adhesive on then wait until it's 'tack dry'. Fit the bellows and all the other things you need to do, you could use the boat immediately after that. Once the clamp's on, it's good to go.

1. The boat shifts perfectly so I was thinking of not messing with shift cable but I do want to replace shift bellows- reading through the factory manual it wasn't 100% clear what to do with shift cable - you disconnect if from bellhousing and pull it through- basically completely remove it from boat? If I do that I might as well replace it? Wasn't sure if there was a way to leave it in?

Right... I've had this 'discussion' with a few people who disagree with me, but I have actually done it this way, it works...

Remove all the bumph from the shift plate end of the cable (guide, guide tube, etc). Tie a pull cord to the end of the cable (so you can guide it back in later, VERY important). Swing the steering hard to port, and tie it there. Remove the clamp on the shift cable bellows then CAREFULLY start pulling the cable out of the boat. You need to feed it in such a way as to not create a tight bend. Pull it all the way out until you have the pull cord. Disconnect the pull cord and remove the bellows from the cable, fit the new bellows, re-secure the pull cord and reverse the above process. If your shift cable has been working fine and there's no wear in it, why give some company (Mercury Marine) money if you don't need to?

1. Continuity I have a little bit of corrosion around the prop (revolution 4) and wanted to verify the continuity straps are ok - I assume I could check from the inner transom plate to the drive or lower unit to see if it is ok? Is there an ohm reading that is considered ok?

Thanks

Set your multimeter to the resistance X1 scale. Hold the ends of the probes together. This reading is your reference... It'll read a few tenths of an ohm (maybe more), that's just the way cheap meters are.

What I do is hold one probe (doesn't matter which) on the head od a continuity screw (usually) the one of the port side of the bell housing is the easiest to get to. Then start touching around with the other probe. Anywhere and everywhere, don't forget the trim cylinder rods! Also the prop blades (not just the hub, but the blades themselves too). As long as you're within a ohm or so of your reference reading, all good. Anything more than about 5Ω is a concern, start looking for bad continuity points.

Yeah I figured basically all day ...

How do you leave shift cable mostly in the boat ? Take the end off at the bellhousing ? can the bellhousing slide off it? thanks

No. The cable screws into the bell housing from the aft side. You can't take it out of the bell housing from the for'rd side...

I heard you mention that many times so i have power tune in hand …

Yep, that's the way to make putting the bell housing end of the uni bellows on REAL easy.

I did get the trim sender and limit switch. Been waiting to do this job to replace the sender, also nursing it with liquid electrical tape…

Yep, do this job with the bell housing out of the way. If you try to do it with the drive and bell housing still on, you need a 'Chris special tool'....

Chris......

 

[Scott06]

A couple or 3 hours for an experienced spanner-swinger. As a novice, double that.

Put the adhesive on then wait until it's 'tack dry'. Fit the bellows and all the other things you need to do, you could use the boat immediately after that. Once the clamp's on, it's good to go.

Right... I've had this 'discussion' with a few people who disagree with me, but I have actually done it this way, it works...

Remove all the bumph from the shift plate end of the cable (guide, guide tube, etc). Tie a pull cord to the end of the cable (so you can guide it back in later, VERY important). Swing the steering hard to port, and tie it there. Remove the clamp on the shift cable bellows then CAREFULLY start pulling the cable out of the boat. You need to feed it in such a way as to not create a tight bend. Pull it all the way out until you have the pull cord. Disconnect the pull cord and remove the bellows from the cable, fit the new bellows, re-secure the pull cord and reverse the above process. If your shift cable has been working fine and there's no wear in it, why give some company (Mercury Marine) money if you don't need to?

Set your multimeter to the resistance X1 scale. Hold the ends of the probes together. This reading is your reference... It'll read a few tenths of an ohm (maybe more), that's just the way cheap meters are.

What I do is hold one probe (doesn't matter which) on the head od a continuity screw (usually) the one of the port side of the bell housing is the easiest to get to. Then start touching around with the other probe. Anywhere and everywhere, don't forget the trim cylinder rods! Also the prop blades (not just the hub, but the blades themselves too). As long as you're within a ohm or so of your reference reading, all good. Anything more than about 5Ω is a concern, start looking for bad continuity points.

No. The cable screws into the bell housing from the aft side. You can't take it out of the bell housing from the for'rd side...

Yep, that's the way to make putting the bell housing end of the uni bellows on REAL easy.

Yep, do this job with the bell housing out of the way. If you try to do it with the drive and bell housing still on, you need a 'Chris special tool'....

Chris......

Ok will check the shift cable before disassembly. Was my understanding it should shift smoothly with very little effort, I assume this is with drive on?

Is there any guidance you can give on checking u joints? They move freely but don't seem that tight? Boat only has about 325 hrs and the bellows have yet to leak only scuffed from the hinge pins...

 

[Rick Stephens]

Ok will check the shift cable before disassembly. Was my understanding it should shift smoothly with very little effort, I assume this is with drive on?

Is there any guidance you can give on checking u joints? They move freely but don't seem that tight? Boat only has about 325 hrs and the bellows have yet to leak only scuffed from the hinge pins...

They sealed or greasable? If you can grease them, and have greased them, and they never were running with water filled bellows, then you don't gain a lot changing them out 'just because'. The job is the same and access is simple if they cause you issues in the future.

 

[Scott Danforth]

as long as they spin good and are not rough feeling, you are good

 

[Scott06]

Ok will check the shift cable before disassembly. Was my understanding it should shift smoothly with very little effort, I assume this is with drive on?

so i got the bellows on had some issues of course , tough to get shift cable core back in the stiff part at the front wouldnt go past the bend the outter jacket makes , eventually got it seemed to work smooth … seemd to shift on on land…in water it is engaging shift interrupt going into gear. im guessing its taking too much force to shift into and out of gear ….

how much force should it take to shift and is there anything else i should look into before hauling the boat and taking drive back off.

im running out of beer on this job….

 

[nola mike]

tough to get shift cable core back in the stiff part at the front wouldnt go past the bend the outter jacket makes , …

This makes me think it wasn't routed correctly. If it has issues going into the sheath, it's going to have issues when you try to move the core within the sheath as well.

in water it is engaging shift interrupt going into gear. im guessing its taking too much force to shift into and out of gear ….

how much force should it take to shift and is there anything else i should look into before hauling the boat and taking drive back off.

im running out of beer on this job….

It should take very, very little Force to shift. Disconnect the lower shift cable and see how it shifts with the engine off

 

[Scott06]

This makes me think it wasn't routed correctly. If it has issues going into the sheath, it's going to have issues when you try to move the core within the sheath as well.

It should take very, very little Force to shift. Disconnect the lower shift cable and see how it shifts with the engine off

I believe it is routed correctly had to do that twice ….

It takes more than very very little pressure to shift so I assume something is wrong with cable or work I did to shift mechanism in bellhousing

 

[dubs283]

tough to get shift cable core back in the stiff part at the front wouldnt go past the bend the outter jacket makes , eventually got it seemed to work smooth … seemd to shift on on land…in water it is engaging shift interrupt going into gear. im guessing its taking too much force to shift into and out of gear ….

Most likely the cable is worn and needs replaced. By removing and installing it the way suggested most likely took what little life was left in it

I figure if you're going to do the u joint bellows, which requires removing the bell housing, just do everything back there. It's the same amount of time, all you're paying extra for is parts. That way everything back there maintenance/replacement wise is done, new and should be good for 5 years of boating, routine annual maintenance aside

FYI, the suggested method of removing the shift cable is really hard on the outer portion. It creates weak/stress points that the core wire gets hung up on. I leave the cable attached to the bell housing and remove it along with the housing for a bellows replacement

 

[nola mike]

I believe it is routed correctly had to do that twice ….

It takes more than very very little pressure to shift so I assume something is wrong with cable or work I did to shift mechanism in bellhousing

I figured you were using a new cable with the bellows job...

 

[Scott06]

Most likely the cable is worn and needs replaced. By removing and installing it the way suggested most likely took what little life was left in it

I figure if you're going to do the u joint bellows, which requires removing the bell housing, just do everything back there. It's the same amount of time, all you're paying extra for is parts. That way everything back there maintenance/replacement wise is done, new and should be good for 5 years of boating, routine annual maintenance aside

FYI, the suggested method of removing the shift cable is really hard on the outer portion. It creates weak/stress points that the core wire gets hung up on. I leave the cable attached to the bell housing and remove it along with the housing for a bellows replacement

I got it fixed it wasn’t a shift cable. yes I agree normally replace everything but my shift cable I don’t know if it’s newer works perfectly. I did remove it with the bell housing for exactly that reason

What it was was the top bushing on the shift shaft that goes through the exhaust passage in the bellhousing. I must not of fully seated When I replace the two bushings in the seals.it was proud of the casting about a 16th of an inch

When I bolted the arm to that shaft I noticed the screw was a little hard to get started but basically that 16th of an inch put enough drag on the entire shifting that it would trip the shift in irrupt are going into gear

The lower shift cable shifts smoothly like butter no effort. I have way more drag from the helm to the shift plate, that cable may need replacement in the future. Bottom line it shifts perfectly.