Re: belt
I'm not sure, but I think you might have defined it. Is it just a block used to get proper transom height / spacing ?<br /><br />Now on to tune up.<br /><br />This is a conventional points / coil ignition.<br />You need B+ (12v nominal) through the resistors to the coils when the key is on. <br /><br />The plug wires do not pull out - they unscrew.<br /><br />The distributor has a "duel rotor". To drop the cap you need to 1st pull the thing on the side with one of the coil wires going to it and remove it and it's carbon brush. The 2nd carbon brush is in the center of the cap.<br /><br />This thing is basicly 2 ignitions in one, where one set of points and coil fires three cylinders and the other set does the other three.<br /><br />There are four bolts that hold the distributor body to the stalk. once the cap is off you can remove the four bolts and drop the rest of it rotor and all. Mark it and the stalk so no mistakes are made in re-asembly. The rotor just pulls off the shaft, but be carefull, they are usually quite stuck.<br /><br />Once the rotor is off you can remove the cover to the points area. You'll find two sets of points and two condensers. We'll assume all is good in there.
<br /><br />Dress the points lightly with a points file and apply a bit of lube to the cam wick. Then set the points as follows:<br /><br />Get (or make) a 360 degree wheel. There is a template online at John's Old Mercury site.<br /><br />Set the dwell (closure time)of 1 set for exactly 90 degrees use a light bulb or ohmeter to determine closed. Once the one set is done, set the other set to open EXACTLY 60 degrees after the 1st set is open, regardless of it's dwell.<br />Then you can put it all back, clean the cap, and reassemble.<br /><br />Once you have all that stuff back together, follow the tuning post I did last week. Max advance for that one is 34 degrees.<br /><br />-W<br /><br />PS: Hey JB? I think I deserve a "promotion" directly to "Anciant Mariner" for knowing how to time a 1965 off the top of my head.
