Best Way to Modify Tongue?

adt2

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 3, 2012
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So I bought a small used galvanized trailer for the flat-bottom skiff I've been building. I've put new lights on it, build and installed new bunks, and am getting ready to install new keel rollers. The trailer frame is in good shape, and I like the fact that it's a tilting trailer. However, the previous owner went and welded the coupler and the jack to the round tongue tube.

I'm not a welder, don't own a welding machine, and would rather not pay somebody to deal with this. What I'd like to do is replace the coupler, the jack, and the winch post - but I can't figure out how to go about it. The OD of the tongue appears to be 2.375". My thought was to cut off the tongue just aft of the welded-on stuff, grind it smooth, and then slide a new length of round pipe over the remaining tongue. Drill a cross-hole through both tubes, insert a long pin and clip, and then bolt on a new coupler, jack, and post.

Problem is, I can't find a pipe/tube that's got the correct ID to fit over the existing tongue, in either square or round. Wondering if anybody has any ideas here? BTW - reason for all of this is that the trailer isn't quite long enough for the hull, but I can't move the winch post forward any because of the jack stand - which is welded to the tongue. Secondarily, I'd like to replace the 1.875" coupler with a 2" coupler to match the other trailers I already own. One ball to rule them all.
 

Bob_VT

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

I would recommend that you have a welder do the job...........
 

adt2

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

I'd found another online supplier with a pipe with a close ID - see here. The 2-7/8" OD pipe with the 0.203" wall thickness works out to 2.469". I have a hard time conceptualizing a 0.094" difference in diameter (which works out to a 0.047" gap all round), but it seems like one of those deals where once I got the larger pipe slid over the smaller pipe, I'd never get it off again.
 

minuteman62-64

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

You only need a foot or two of pipe. Seems like there's got to be some scrap metal dealers or metal supply houses in your area where you could go in and pick that up for a dollar or two. I use a metal supply place that has cut-off bins where I can get small pieces and pay by weight.
 

adt2

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

That's kind of what I was thinking. Not really one of my areas of expertise, though, so off the top of my head I'm not sure where I'd go to get it. But I'll be looking.
 

oldjeep

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

Any reason you can't just unbolt the tounge at the folding point and replace the whole thing?
 

adt2

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

That smacking sound you hear is my palm and forehead. I can't remember off the top of my head if the tongue is just a single bolt-on piece, but if it is, then this suggestion is the winner. I'm going to quit working on this little side-project for the day until I can get home and inspect the trailer again. I can't believe I didn't think of this.

Thanks for the suggestion!
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,796
Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

Or make the bunks 3 feet longer, then move the axle back if needed to provide tongue weight.
 

adt2

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

Okay, need a little more help. The tongue shown in the picture is about 8' long. I'm planning to replace it with a piece about 10' long. What is the little piece of 1/2" steel rod running from the jack stand back underneath the tongue, 6" below it? Is it necessary to duplicate that on the new tongue (again, I'm not a welder)?

2012-07-18 06-35-48.jpg
 

The_Kid

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Apr 18, 2008
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447
Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

Okay, need a little more help. The tongue shown in the picture is about 8' long. I'm planning to replace it with a piece about 10' long. What is the little piece of 1/2" steel rod running from the jack stand back underneath the tongue, 6" below it? Is it necessary to duplicate that on the new tongue (again, I'm not a welder)?

View attachment 159142


The 1/2" rod adds strength to the tongue so it won't flex up and down. Depending on the thickness of the new tongue you may, or may not need it. If it was me, I'd replace the round tongue with a square one. With the right thickness it will be stronger and will make it easier to bold a new coupler, jack stand and winch post on.
 

adt2

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

If I can make a square tube fit, that's my first choice. Question is whether it will fit into the mounting bracket at the aft end of the existing tongue (which I forgot to measure this morning), and whether it will work with the slip ring thing at the forward end of the tilting portion of the trailer frame. That round ring that slides over the tilting part - I need to verify that that'll still work with a square tube.
 

adt2

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

Okay, here's what I have to-date. The bracket at the aft end of the tongue is 3-1/4" wide. The tongue is a galvanized pipe with an OD of 2-3/8". Welded onto the aft end of the tongue are two 1/4" spacers, one on each side of the tongue, and a 1/2" hex bolt secures the aft end of the tongue, through the spacers, to the frame bracket. The tongue is a shade over 8' long to the center of the coupler.

I have two do-it-yourself options. Option #1 is to purchase a new 10' length of round pipe, likely 2-7/8" OD. Instead of welding spacers onto the aft end, I would use heavy galvanized fender washers on either side of the tongue, plus a new 1/2" bolt.

Option #2 is to purchase a new 10' length of 2"- to 3"-square galvanized tube. I'd still use galvanized washers as spacers, but I might have to use two (or three) on each side of the tube to compensate for the smaller OD (if I went with the 2").

I'm not sure what the pros & cons are with regards to square versus round tube. A lot (most) of the winch posts, couplers, etc. I've looked at seem to be sized to fit either 2" or 3" square/rectangular tube, which I guess would be a vote in favor of square. My concern is the slip-ring for the tilt frame. If it won't fit over the new square tube I'm going to have a problem.

Any thoughts on square vs round? Any thoughts on what size square if I go that way?
 

LippCJ7

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5,431
Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

This is really pretty simple, round tube while being strong is not as strong as square or rectangle tube, the little piece of 1/2" rod is to add strength vertically meanwhile the round tongue will still flex laterally, by contrast replacing the round tube with 2"X3" rectangle will be far stronger vertically and laterally then the round tube and the round 1/2" rod can be eliminated. I recommend you eliminate the round tongue and replace it with a rectangle tongue, much stronger and probably lighter in the end, easier to mount as well and can be nut and bolted far easier then round tube.

If you are not a welder and not interested in the services of a welder Rectangle tube is your answer, the previous owner was a wise engineer, that 1/2" rod adds a huge amount of strength unfortunately though its only adding strength in one direction.

The size of tube I would use would be consistent with the lateral's that come off(towards the wheels at what looks like a 30 degree angle), if they are 3" tall that would give you your height, your existing tongue is just over 2" so I would go with 2"X3" rectangle very common, where you need to pay extra attention is the wall thickness, and you will want similar or just under the same wall thickness as the existing tongue, round tube as I stated isn't as strong as rectangle and so when it is used the wall thickness is where they add strength but you will not need it, I would suggest 3/16" wall at a minimum though.
 

adt2

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

Okay, I've got access to rectangle tube. I'll have to verify that it'll fit inside the tilt-frame slip-ring when I get home. Thanks for the advice.
 

LippCJ7

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Re: Best Way to Modify Tongue?

better pics would be huge also...
 
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