Bilge blower motor(s) ?

tmagyar

Cadet
Joined
Jun 17, 2006
Messages
15
Hi all,

I just purchased a 1995 SeaRay 175 with 3.0LX I/O. When I flip on the bilge blower switch, nothing happens. Found out the fuse in the dash was blown. Replaced the fuse with another and after about a second of the switch lighting up, it blew too. I found the bilge fan motor at the end of the hose on the port side near the engine was seized up, and so I removed it. I'm assuming (and hoping) its trying to draw too much power to get spinning and blowing the 3amp fuse.

But the other black 4" hose on the starboard side...it goes from the vent in at the top, down the transom about half way and...that's it. No blower motor. Should there be a motor on this too?? Or is this an "intake" for the other which exhausts the air out?

I need to order another one, so want to be sure there isn't another one I need to get. Obviously, the previous owner didn't use 'em!

Thanks,
 

qaztwo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2004
Messages
384
Re: Bilge blower motor(s) ?

no, and there should be a few more. THe bilge blower will exhaust out of one of your air scoops. There should also be others that bring fresh air in and out, while you are underway.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Bilge blower motor(s) ?

Yup -- air has to get into the engine compartment before any can be sucked out. No blower needed on that side. The reason the fuse blew is that a stalled motor draws a great deal of power. Obviously more than 3A in your case.
 

qaztwo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2004
Messages
384
Re: Bilge blower motor(s) ?

no might be to strong, you might of had two but I would think the others are for fresh air.
 

craze1cars

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 26, 2004
Messages
1,822
Re: Bilge blower motor(s) ?

17 ft I/O's have one blower motor that sucks air from the BOTTOM of the engine compartment and blows it through a tube that runs directly to one side vent. Plus there's an intake side that just sort of dangles there....The blowers are cheap and easy to replace. Buy one and your problem will be solved.
 

tmagyar

Cadet
Joined
Jun 17, 2006
Messages
15
Re: Bilge blower motor(s) ?

Thanks guys; good to hear. So my setup is correct, I just need to replace the one I just removed. Already found the exact replacement here at iboats.

Thanks!
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Bilge blower motor(s) ?

mine quit like that. took some WD40 to it gave it a couple of spins and been good ever since. but it hasn't been back to salt water.
 

Scaaty

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 31, 2004
Messages
5,180
Re: Bilge blower motor(s) ?

Usually 4 hoses .... 2 in, 2 out... ONE BLOWER ONLY ON ONE HOSE. The other hose is for exhausting air from the 2 intakes. If it had a blower too, with the blowers off at speed, the air could NOT get out efficiently' You have a junk blower. Probably got some water spray (saltwater kills blowers damn fast). Get another length of hose, and put a loop in the bottom, so water can't get to it. Last forever then. I would NEVER WD a motor to get it started....it quit for a reason, which I just explained, so junk it. Your LIFE depends on getting any possible gas fumes out...don't play games and get cheap.
 

Boatist

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
4,552
Re: Bilge blower motor(s) ?

My boat also has 4 hoses, two input and two output. One of the outputs has a blower on it. As stated earlier the output with no blower is for when going down the road or out on the water moving. It will move more air with out any motor on it. Bilge blower required when stopped.

I am Sure boaters assume blowers are set up right but important to know what is right.

Output hoses, one with a blower and one without should be routed below the engine low in the bilge but high enough that will not be blocked by bilge water. This is because Gas Fumes are heaver than air so the lower in the bilge the better as long as not blocked by water. If you get the fumes out below the sources of ignition then sources of ingition, (Sparks) from the engine will have no fumes to set off. also cowling for the exhaust hoses must face to the stern.

Input hoses should be above the carburetor and engine. Again this is to help push any fumes down where they can be sucked out by output hoses. Input hose Cowling should face foward.

This is comon sense but I seen a lot of boats set up wrong at the dealer or factory.

These are the kinds of thing that the Coast Guard Boating Skills and Seamanship classes do a real good job of teaching. If you have not taken one I suggest you do. My whole family and crew has passed and I been 5 times. Classes are cheap, fun and you will learn a lot to keep you, your crew, and Boat safe.

Coast Guard Aux long 13 week class has the best saftey classes. If you Can find the long 13 week class.

U. S. Power Squradons long class has a better navigation class.

Both are worth taking. Besides the class it self you will meet lots of boater some brand new and some old Salts that you can learn a lot from. Some insurance companies also give you a discount on your insurance.
 
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