Bilge pump wiring

[further]

Replaced my failed bilge pump yesterday with a new pump and switch and used the same wiring as the old. I'm assuming it's original stock setup which is one of those plastic quick connects. The wiring from the quick connect looks like it heads to one of those bus strips at the back with other wiring. I also installed a off,1,2,both switch. Question is... Shouldn't the pump and float be connected direct to the battery? Especially with a switch? Doesn't make sense that it's not and tryin to figure out why it would be that way stock. Should I just forget the quick connect and require it to the battery with an inline fuse? Sorry if these are dumb questions. Thanks

 

[further]

Got both batteries (one starting and one deep cycle) in and wired properly to a off,1,2,both switch. Raise the float when the switch is off and nothing happens obviously cause it's all wired to the com post on the switch. The helm switch is a two position, no auto. On and off for the bilge. How do I wire it up so that the float works when the switch is in the off position and still maintain function of the switch at the helm?

 

[Pez Vela]

The bilge pump's positive lead splits off in two directions. The 1st path of travel goes to the on-off helm switch (which wiring you already have in place), and the 2nd goes directly to one of the leads on the float switch. The other lead from the float switch is directly connected to the positive battery terminal, with an in-line fuse added for safety. How you split off the bilge pump's positive lead in two directions is up to you. I use a common terminal on a bus bar for a clean (and easily replaceable) connection point. A quick and dirty splice would also work, but might not hold up over time.

 

[sam am I]

#3(or #6 ideal) below is I think what you're after and/or might help. I have a 3 batt system and due to existing helm switches/wiring, I have a #1 on steroids w two O1A2 switches. There are subtle differences in each, they depend on helm switch types, previous wiring, dual/single feed, isolated/non-isolated supply etc.

"non-iso" =(" manual on"circuit switches through O1A2 switch, #1 and # 2) therefor depending on switch lineup, potentially the "manual on" circuit's power source may not be equal to the "auto on" circuit's power source......e.g., O1A2 switch selected to batt "1" and "auto on" power source is wired directly to batt #2 or dual diode two way feed and variances there of.

Sorry for low res image BTW, iboats is not allowing the once higher res images it appears now .

Well the photo below disappeared looks like after a few days.....Hmmmm, made it a few days, guess that's an improvement of sorts

 

[sam am I]

No Title

 

[further]

Thanks guys. Yeah Sam, no photo no saw it the first day you posted from my phone but the resolution was too poor to make anything out of it. In any case, I spliced off the lead from the switch and ran an independent wire direct to one of the batteries. Forgot to get an inline fuse though. What size fuse do I get? The pump is a rule 800 gph which is rated at 4 amps at 13.6v and a ruleomatic float switch. 10 amp inline fuse would be fine I'm assuming? Thanks

 

[sam am I]

Yup, sounds like you wired something like #3


Here's rules take on fuses............For the 360 GPH and 500 GPH 12 volt pumps use a 2.5 amp fuse; for the 700 GPH, 800 GPH and 1000 GPH pumps use a 5 amp fuse; the 1100 GPH pumps use a 6 amp fuse; for the 1500 GPH pumps use a 10 amp fuse; for the 2000 GPH pumps use a 15 amp fuse; ; for the 3700 GPH and 4000 GPH pumps use a 25 amp fuse; ; for the 8000 GPH pumps use two 25 amp fuses.



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