Re: Black Max 200 bogging wont get over 4900/5000 rpms
Tommy, let me get this straight....<br /><br />Based on what you have told me, you have replaced the stator, checked the power packs with some machine and found good spark. Coils also... Rebuilt the carbs, replaced a filter or two, and also I assume you checked the venting on the tank and the filter within the tank like I suggested....<br /><br />Your mechanic first thinks it's a lost cylinder issue (even though you have good compression), and now after all your money on the above he thinks it's a switchbox problem....I By the way never said it was a trigger issue, If you have spark on all cylinders your Triggers, switchboxes (powerpacks) and coils are fine! <br /><br />So with that said....Your mechanic I think, doesn't know what he is doing. If you want to check the switchboxes (powerpacks) you can easily check them by switching the stator leads from one box to another and see if any non fire issues move from one bank to another (but if you have spark on ALL cylinders there is no need to do so, they are fine). If your mechanic doesn't know how to do that, fire him!!!!... Because you can do it yourself for free....<br />Next, go to an auto parts store and buy an in-line spark testor... One end connects to the coil lead and the other to ground.. You can check the spark easily without getting shocked... Stop the motor and move it to another lead, and so on.... It has an adjustable gap to also check spark intensity.... Start at 1/8" gap...I've heard that a healthy intensity will reveal a 7/16" gap jump. You need to confirm the spark intensity on all cylinders...And consistency... Take it slow, start with 1/8" and slowly increase 3/8". But dont' let the spark miss ground more than a second, that may damage the boxes...<br />Let us know...
<br />engine isn't set properly? is the cavitation plate<br />even with the bottom of the hull?<br />think max rpms is 5200 on that model, so you are<br />pretty close at 5000. diff prop will cure that.