Bleeding after tilt rebuild

cj7ole

Seaman
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
74
1999 Yamaha 130hp 2 stroke. I was having a leak from the tilt (not trim) cylinder so I pulled it and replaced the o-rings in the top cap and the piston as well as the dust seal in the top cap, I did not pull the floating piston.

Now with the reservoir full, I am fully air locked, can't even get the trim cylinder rods to move. At first they went out and the tilt cylinder rod went about 25% out and stopped. Now messing around trying to bleed it I lost all action. With bleed valve open I was able to lift motor to that 25% tilt position, but then it stopped. I was by myself so I used the winch on my Jeep to lift it (very carefully I might add), still stops at the 25% position with the bleed valve open. Now it is fully down and the motor just hums with button in the up or down position and the valve closed. Any ideas? Sure could use some advise.

After I got it fully assembled, I realized I don't remember seeing the teflon back up ring when I removed the o-ring in the piston. It didn't come out, so it may still be there as I wasn't looking for it. Is that a problem? I do have a new one.

A definite lack of YouTube videos on the tilt cylinder repair, plenty on the trim cylinders. To break the nut loose on the piston, I wrapped the rod with a towel and stuck the other end in my receiver hitch and inserted the hitch pin to keep it from rotating. Field vise. Also was lucky in that the lower shock mount pin was missing a circlip and had worked its way out about 3/4".
 

cj7ole

Seaman
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
74
Got it. Pump was totally air locked. Winched the motor as high as it would go without undue strain, attached my 5/8" clear vinyl tube to the filler (old 130 hp has plastic reservoir with a cap not a plug) and half filled it with red tranny fluid so I could monitor if it was taking fluid or expelling air. With the bypass open or closed I was getting no movement of the motor or fluid. But I kept at it finally it took a little fluid, but no change in the pump sound. I checked the winch cable and noticed some slack. Tightened it and got another 2 inches up. Kept this up three more times and all of a sudden the pump caught and I knew I was home free. Then it was just a matter of continuing to add fluid and running the pump. Removed the winch cable and let it down on the bypass valve to expel any residual air, topped it off on full tilt and I was done. Posting this in a few places hoping to help as many as possible.
 

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cj7ole

Seaman
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
74
No Title

Got it. Pump was totally air locked. Winched the motor as high as it would go without undue strain, attached my 5/8" clear vinyl tube to the filler (old 130 hp has plastic reservoir with a cap not a plug) and half filled it with red tranny fluid so I could monitor if it was taking fluid or expelling air. With the bypass open or closed I was getting no movement of the motor or fluid. But I kept at it finally it took a little fluid, but no change in the pump sound. I checked the winch cable and noticed some slack. Tightened it and got another 2 inches up. Kept this up three more times and all of a sudden the pump caught and I knew I was home free. Then it was just a matter of continuing to add fluid and running the pump. Removed the winch cable and let it down on the bypass valve to expel any residual air, topped it off on full tilt and I was done. Posting this in a few places hoping to help as many as possible.
 

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  • winch boat.JPG
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